4.2 or 4.5 -which one to choose?

[black_350i]

Good evening everyone,

after only reading in this forum quietly for some time I probably should introduce myself.
My name is Henning. I'm a happy wedge owner, but cannot help myself wanting a Cerbera just as long.
So I read the Cerbera-forum for some time trying to soak up all information just in case.
I just do not feel very clever now:
There are two Cerberas, a 4.2 and a 4.5. I am sure both will be silly fast, so I would be happy either way.
The 4.5 is of 98 60.000km and had some money spent on it: ACT exhaust, short induction kit, new paint, new radiator, bushes... all in the last 7 years -but it did only 4500km in this time.
The 4.2 is of 9/00 12.000mls, all original.

What are your thoughts? Would you consider low mileage positive or negative? How could I tell damages from too little use? Where to look to tell a good from a bad one? Are there late 4.2s with 4.5 capacity and how could you tell? -engine number? Didn't a speaker below the radio indicate a very early one -the 4.2 seems to have that?

I am quite sure all of these questions have been answered before, I just could not find the threads -sorry.
All thoughts greatly appreciated.

Thanks
H.

[ukkid35]

Unless you are really keen to do a body off restoration, the only thing that matters is the chassis condition. An engine swap is comparatively simple (inexpensive) in comparison.

[jamieduff1981]

Hello Henning.

Anyway, there is very little between the 4.2 and 4.5 to drive. The better condition example of either will drive better than the other.

It really is chassis condition you need to look at.

In terms of too little milage, anything likely to be an issue should show up already although if you can persuade the seller to remove the cover for the clutch master cylinder it would be worth looking in there to check the colour of the fluid. The clutch hydraulics are not good and if the car has its original master and slave cylinder, I would budget for having those replaced. The clutch itself only lasts about 45000km normally and it is very expensive to buy a replacement.

Also the inlet valve clearances on the engine tend to close up and when the shims are thinned too much to correct this, they can break and seriously damage the engine. For the higher milage/km car I would want to see the service history which should record the clearances and hopefully the shims used.

[sweeper]

Seeing that you are from Germany probably just as a headsup to check for emission regulations to get the car registered. I vaguely remember when buying mine that there were tougher emmission rules for registrations from 2000 onwards.

Not sure how big of a problem that might be since mine is a 99 but worth checking anyway (unless the 00 reg that you mentioned already has a German plate of course...)

[Byff]

The speaker below the radio is present in 1996/97 cars and removed in 1998 making a more usable cubby hole.

I'd buy on condition and how they drive, mileage and age are irrelevent.

[Gazzab]

I wouldnt be too hung up between 4.2 and 4.5. Just buy on condition and history.
If the car has had a small fortune spent on it in the last few years (repairs not upgrades) then its much less likely to cost a fortune during your ownership.
The big items like engine and chassis can cost a small fortune - problem with these is that whilst its easy to spot a turkey, an apparently good car can quite easily be waiting to bite you.

[black_350i]

A big thank you to everybody!
I had a look at the 4.2 today with a mate. The car is fine so far, partly removed carpets were a little letdown on the interior though. 12kmls seem to be true - the frame looks really good. Money was spent on maintenance and repairs only, no "goodies". The engine itself sounded rather quiet mechanically (if I can tell that), the exhaust definitely was the most civilized so far. RL7 17" of a 4.5 are looking nice. And I learned Iceblue does look much nicer than I thought;-)
Long story short: We did not strike deal (yet), I want to look at the other one first, and we would definitely have to talk about the price, too.

So much of an update from me.
Please feel free to add any info or thoughts you have;-)

Cheers
H.

[Tanguero]

Be wary of an AJP engine that sounds quiet when its started from cold. If it doesn't clatter like a sack of spanners being kicked down stairs, it may well mean that valve clearances have closed up to a worrying degree. They are meant to sound rough until they warm up.

[black_350i]

Hey Tanguero,

that kind of changes my perspective, thanks!
I am going to look at the other car this weekend, curious what this one will be like.

H.

[ukkid35]

black_350i said:

Hey Tanguero,

that kind of changes my perspective, thanks!
I am going to look at the other car this weekend, curious what this one will be like.

H.

Yes that will indicate how well a car has been maintained, but

You can fix valve clearances in a weekend, but it takes a lifetime to fix a chassis (slight exaggeration perhaps)

This is Tanguero in charge, working on djstevec's car, with me doing what I'm told

http://vimeo.com/48726971

[billynobrakes]

black_350i said:

Hey Tanguero,

that kind of changes my perspective, thanks!
I am going to look at the other car this weekend, curious what this one will be like.

H.

I know of a 4.2 for sale with the following done

Re-spray
New Ali Rad
Silicon Hoses
ACT stainless steel water pipes
2002 engine fitted after the original one blew up
Had new head gaskets fitted by APM recently
New starter motor
New Race proved clutch
New Race proved slave cylinder
New Clutch master cylinder
New front discs
Nitrons all round
New key fob with bonnet release
TVR Number plate
Chassis in great condition
taxed and MOT till June

Guy has had the car for over 14 years but it has become a garage queen

Billy

[Jabbah]

billynobrakes said:

New key fob with bonnet release

There's a better way to release the bonnet???

[billynobrakes]

Jabbah said:

There's a better way to release the bonnet???

I meant boot release silly old sod I get in my old age

But it does have a quick release bonnet hinge, which is not available anymore, just undo two bolts and the bonnet comes off

[sweeper]

You probably wouldn't want a solenoid bonnet release anyway when having an electric breakdown or issues with the battery.