My 450 Chassis rebuild at RTR

My 450 Chassis rebuild at RTR

Author
Discussion

SILICONEKID345HP

14,997 posts

230 months

Wednesday 4th March 2015
quotequote all
I think James should give you some money back .

NickOrangeTVR

649 posts

138 months

Wednesday 4th March 2015
quotequote all
Sardonicus said:
ou shouldn't need to resort to this unless the chassis was beyond repair wink apart from double checking measurements when fitting new outriggers with the chassis off the car it should be the easiest welding operation ever confused those pics shown are just a Mickey Mouse outfits lash up job eek
Totally agree - total overkill.

For comparison - my Chassis had HUGE holes in it, and several bits that were bent! (you can see in this picture holes + a section cut out)



See this post for the repairs that were done - http://tvrengineer.co.uk/2012/05/09/41/

And the final result



A final point - what is more important is how (new or old) chassis is then protected for the future. What is this new one coated with?


Trevor450

1,740 posts

147 months

Wednesday 4th March 2015
quotequote all
SILICONEKID345HP said:
I think James should give you some money back .
After nearly five years? Seriously?

I had to have my chassis rebuilt only two years after buying it from a well respected specialist with assurances that the chassis was sound. Loads of people told me I should sue but the chances of winning would be zero so I sucked it up. I wasn't happy about it but I love the car.

Those photos show that anyone who claims they can weld outriggers with the body on is talking rubbish. The only way to do it properly is with a body lift.

Quinny

15,814 posts

265 months

Wednesday 4th March 2015
quotequote all
ClassiChimi said:
biglaugh
What's the engine?
It's the big metal thing at the front of the car that makes it goyes










LS3 chevy somat or othersmile

Andy_J_G

323 posts

208 months

Wednesday 4th March 2015
quotequote all
Sardonicus said:
ou shouldn't need to resort to this unless the chassis was beyond repair wink apart from double checking measurements when fitting new outriggers with the chassis off the car it should be the easiest welding operation ever confused those pics shown are just a Mickey Mouse outfits lash up job eek
True but the cost was the same for replacing compared to fixing, so a no brainer as far as I am concerned. Unless off course you do it yourself, and I don't have the time or the welding skills to do so.

ClassiChimi

12,424 posts

148 months

Wednesday 4th March 2015
quotequote all
Quinny said:
ClassiChimi said:
biglaugh
What's the engine?
It's the big metal thing at the front of the car that makes it goyes










LS3 chevy somat or othersmile
Oh I thought it was some old diesel,,,
Mega..
wink

portzi

2,296 posts

174 months

Wednesday 4th March 2015
quotequote all
Andy_J_G said:
Sardonicus said:
ou shouldn't need to resort to this unless the chassis was beyond repair wink apart from double checking measurements when fitting new outriggers with the chassis off the car it should be the easiest welding operation ever confused those pics shown are just a Mickey Mouse outfits lash up job eek
True but the cost was the same for replacing compared to fixing, so a no brainer as far as I am concerned. Unless off course you do it yourself, and I don't have the time or the welding skills to do so.
It all depends on the metal fatigue on the remaining outrigger sections, if a through welded joint cannot be achieved then rip out and start again. But unfortunatley this thread and many others like it have shown there are quite afew garage cowboys out there, and through lack of welding knowledge purchasing home MIG welding solutions, willing to pass on dodgy chassis repairs. I fully understand TVR had their faults at manufacture especially in metal prep before powder coating, but for the most part their welding was of good quality when the cars left the factory. I think everyone has to factor in chassis costs that if your car has not had any chassis work done either by a reputable specialist as we all know who they are, or a competant Home engineer.

Edited by portzi on Wednesday 4th March 21:45

sheel

696 posts

222 months

Wednesday 4th March 2015
quotequote all
Hi dave looks like maybe a little more work than you anticipated be worth it in the long run tho, My new garage is nearly ready and beastie is coming home this weekend. You will have to pop round and have a gander when you get a mo
Rich

davelittlewood

Original Poster:

306 posts

132 months

Friday 27th March 2015
quotequote all
Well time for an update.

The car is in bits (somewhat scary seeing the car like this).

Can't really see if there any crap bits (other than the outriggers).

I've also replaced the battery leads with uprated cables and changed the fan connectors to waterproof types.








2 sMoKiN bArReLs

30,230 posts

234 months

Friday 27th March 2015
quotequote all
ClassiChimi said:
biglaugh
What's the engine?
Big heavy noisy thing at the front, but that's not important right now

shake n bake

2,221 posts

206 months

Friday 27th March 2015
quotequote all
Trevor450 said:
Those photos show that anyone who claims they can weld outriggers with the body on is talking rubbish. The only way to do it properly is with a body lift.
One stty job doesn't mean every other job of a similar nature was done just as poorly.

portzi

2,296 posts

174 months

Friday 27th March 2015
quotequote all
davelittlewood said:
Well time for an update.

The car is in bits (somewhat scary seeing the car like this).

Can't really see if there any crap bits (other than the outriggers).

I've also replaced the battery leads with uprated cables and changed the fan connectors to waterproof types.





You right that welding is very poor

GTRene

16,372 posts

223 months

Friday 27th March 2015
quotequote all
I guess they also did not put a smaller pipe inside that pipe, that way more straight and stronger and perhaps also easier to weld (thicker)

OleVix

1,438 posts

147 months

Saturday 28th March 2015
quotequote all
GTRene said:
I guess they also did not put a smaller pipe inside that pipe, that way more straight and stronger and perhaps also easier to weld (thicker)
I got the stainless riggers from Verpoorten. Smaller inner tubes was with the kit, we welded it with a 300 amp TIG after it was sandblasted. The blasting made the welding a bit difficult, we think because of microscopic particles in the metal after blasting... but its done now and looks very strong

then the welds were polished down with a fine rotary stainless steel brush, epoxy primer on, then 3 layers of polyurethane 2 pack paint. Put on with a brush, not spray. Not the prettiest job but wont rust!

forgot to say that we had to make up a jig to make sure the riggers fit perfectly in the bodyholes! Some of the holes in the riggers was a bit off and has to be doublechecked before painting! I also believe these good TIG welds are impossible with the body on or even with a 2" lift. Theres just no space.

And if the riggers are rusty then theres bound to be rust and possibly rot some other places. The old powderst needs to come off! A body off is the only true peace of mind

Edited by OleVix on Saturday 28th March 06:50

J400GED

1,202 posts

236 months

Saturday 28th March 2015
quotequote all
Dave,
How's the work going at RTR?

davelittlewood

Original Poster:

306 posts

132 months

Saturday 28th March 2015
quotequote all
J400GED said:
Dave,
How's the work going at RTR?
They've only just got the chassis back from the blasters so they'll start the metal work next week.

I'll post the photos and the decisions/extras as we get there along with the costs.


J400GED

1,202 posts

236 months

Saturday 28th March 2015
quotequote all
davelittlewood said:
They've only just got the chassis back from the blasters so they'll start the metal work next week.

I'll post the photos and the decisions/extras as we get there along with the costs.
Looking forward to it. thumbup

GTRene

16,372 posts

223 months

Saturday 28th March 2015
quotequote all
OleVix said:
GTRene said:
I guess they also did not put a smaller pipe inside that pipe, that way more straight and stronger and perhaps also easier to weld (thicker)
I got the stainless riggers from Verpoorten. Smaller inner tubes was with the kit, we welded it with a 300 amp TIG after it was sandblasted. The blasting made the welding a bit difficult, we think because of microscopic particles in the metal after blasting... but its done now and looks very strong

then the welds were polished down with a fine rotary stainless steel brush, epoxy primer on, then 3 layers of polyurethane 2 pack paint. Put on with a brush, not spray. Not the prettiest job but wont rust!

forgot to say that we had to make up a jig to make sure the riggers fit perfectly in the bodyholes! Some of the holes in the riggers was a bit off and has to be doublechecked before painting! I also believe these good TIG welds are impossible with the body on or even with a 2" lift. Theres just no space.

And if the riggers are rusty then theres bound to be rust and possibly rot some other places. The old powderst needs to come off! A body off is the only true peace of mind
sounds like a good job done there.

was it for this Chimaera? btw a very cool good looking car in the picture


Richard 858

1,882 posts

134 months

Saturday 28th March 2015
quotequote all
2 sMoKiN bArReLs said:
ClassiChimi said:
biglaugh
What's the engine?
Big heavy noisy thing at the front, but that's not important right now
And don't call me Shirley.

2 sMoKiN bArReLs

30,230 posts

234 months

Saturday 28th March 2015
quotequote all
Richard 858 said:
2 sMoKiN bArReLs said:
ClassiChimi said:
biglaugh
What's the engine?
Big heavy noisy thing at the front, but that's not important right now
And don't call me Shirley.
biggrin