My 450 Chassis rebuild at RTR
Discussion
Sardonicus said:
ou shouldn't need to resort to this unless the chassis was beyond repair apart from double checking measurements when fitting new outriggers with the chassis off the car it should be the easiest welding operation ever those pics shown are just a Mickey Mouse outfits lash up job
Totally agree - total overkill. For comparison - my Chassis had HUGE holes in it, and several bits that were bent! (you can see in this picture holes + a section cut out)
See this post for the repairs that were done - http://tvrengineer.co.uk/2012/05/09/41/
And the final result
A final point - what is more important is how (new or old) chassis is then protected for the future. What is this new one coated with?
SILICONEKID345HP said:
I think James should give you some money back .
After nearly five years? Seriously?I had to have my chassis rebuilt only two years after buying it from a well respected specialist with assurances that the chassis was sound. Loads of people told me I should sue but the chances of winning would be zero so I sucked it up. I wasn't happy about it but I love the car.
Those photos show that anyone who claims they can weld outriggers with the body on is talking rubbish. The only way to do it properly is with a body lift.
Sardonicus said:
ou shouldn't need to resort to this unless the chassis was beyond repair apart from double checking measurements when fitting new outriggers with the chassis off the car it should be the easiest welding operation ever those pics shown are just a Mickey Mouse outfits lash up job
True but the cost was the same for replacing compared to fixing, so a no brainer as far as I am concerned. Unless off course you do it yourself, and I don't have the time or the welding skills to do so.Andy_J_G said:
Sardonicus said:
ou shouldn't need to resort to this unless the chassis was beyond repair apart from double checking measurements when fitting new outriggers with the chassis off the car it should be the easiest welding operation ever those pics shown are just a Mickey Mouse outfits lash up job
True but the cost was the same for replacing compared to fixing, so a no brainer as far as I am concerned. Unless off course you do it yourself, and I don't have the time or the welding skills to do so.Edited by portzi on Wednesday 4th March 21:45
davelittlewood said:
Well time for an update.
The car is in bits (somewhat scary seeing the car like this).
Can't really see if there any crap bits (other than the outriggers).
I've also replaced the battery leads with uprated cables and changed the fan connectors to waterproof types.
You right that welding is very poor The car is in bits (somewhat scary seeing the car like this).
Can't really see if there any crap bits (other than the outriggers).
I've also replaced the battery leads with uprated cables and changed the fan connectors to waterproof types.
GTRene said:
I guess they also did not put a smaller pipe inside that pipe, that way more straight and stronger and perhaps also easier to weld (thicker)
I got the stainless riggers from Verpoorten. Smaller inner tubes was with the kit, we welded it with a 300 amp TIG after it was sandblasted. The blasting made the welding a bit difficult, we think because of microscopic particles in the metal after blasting... but its done now and looks very strongthen the welds were polished down with a fine rotary stainless steel brush, epoxy primer on, then 3 layers of polyurethane 2 pack paint. Put on with a brush, not spray. Not the prettiest job but wont rust!
forgot to say that we had to make up a jig to make sure the riggers fit perfectly in the bodyholes! Some of the holes in the riggers was a bit off and has to be doublechecked before painting! I also believe these good TIG welds are impossible with the body on or even with a 2" lift. Theres just no space.
And if the riggers are rusty then theres bound to be rust and possibly rot some other places. The old powderst needs to come off! A body off is the only true peace of mind
Edited by OleVix on Saturday 28th March 06:50
OleVix said:
GTRene said:
I guess they also did not put a smaller pipe inside that pipe, that way more straight and stronger and perhaps also easier to weld (thicker)
I got the stainless riggers from Verpoorten. Smaller inner tubes was with the kit, we welded it with a 300 amp TIG after it was sandblasted. The blasting made the welding a bit difficult, we think because of microscopic particles in the metal after blasting... but its done now and looks very strongthen the welds were polished down with a fine rotary stainless steel brush, epoxy primer on, then 3 layers of polyurethane 2 pack paint. Put on with a brush, not spray. Not the prettiest job but wont rust!
forgot to say that we had to make up a jig to make sure the riggers fit perfectly in the bodyholes! Some of the holes in the riggers was a bit off and has to be doublechecked before painting! I also believe these good TIG welds are impossible with the body on or even with a 2" lift. Theres just no space.
And if the riggers are rusty then theres bound to be rust and possibly rot some other places. The old powderst needs to come off! A body off is the only true peace of mind
was it for this Chimaera? btw a very cool good looking car in the picture
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