Differential output shaft bearings torque tightening

[wellyone]

I am just about to change the output shaft bearings and seals on the differential and need to know the torque required to correctly set the two taper roller bearings and deform the associated "Crush Sleeves". Has anyone done this job and do you know the torque settings?

Many thanks

David

[Wedg1e]

Are you sure the bearings need changing? I renewed the seals on my diff and found the bearing races to be absolutely perfect so I didn't change them. All I did was to centre punch the nut, tab washer and shaft before I stripped them down, then reassembled to the same positions - so reused the crush tubes as well. Only time will tell whether this was a bad move
I did the same routine for the input (pinion shaft) seal.
I would be concerned that any replacement bearings wouldn't be of similar quality to the (British made) originals.

[wellyone]

Hi Ian, I have got all the parts from David Manners Ltd with the exception of the crush sleeves. They have a quantity on order but they will not be in for about 4 weeks. As my first sprint of the season is in 2 weeks time I was going to do exactly what you did and re use the old sleeves as the have come off ok when the inner bearing was removed. However I have now decided to run my old differential (a 4.01:1) for the first 2 events by which time I hope to have the new crush seals and have them fitted to the 3.75:1 diff I intend to use.

As the nut is thin I can't see the load being that high I was proposing to use about 70 ft lbs of torque. Any idea what you ended up with to re align the pop marks you made on the nut and shaft?

[Wedg1e]

wellyone said:

As the nut is thin I can't see the load being that high I was proposing to use about 70 ft lbs of torque. Any idea what you ended up with to re align the pop marks you made on the nut and shaft?

No idea; I just used a 12" adjustable spanner

Kept rotating the shaft so the balls would find their track and everything just fell together.
Be aware that pushing the stub axle out destroys the oil seal so don't put iy back together with a new seal and then remember something that means it needs to come apart again! I'd throughly recommend renewing the stub axle flange studs while it's all in bits unless the threads are perfect: mine were anything but, however I rebuilt the assembly and then remembered I'd meant to change them, which then became several shades more difficult a task.

Some pics of my diff in bits here (a bit of scrolling required as it's spread down the page!):

http://www.wedgeneering.co.uk/TVR%20390SE%20p13.ht...

[wellyone]

Thanks everyone, Neil Russell has sent me a copy of the 4HU diff service manual with all the data and torque settings included. Hopefully job now sorted.