Another snapped drive shaft and another query or two
Discussion
From the parts list
http://www.prolinx.biz/pages/Products/ViewProduct/...
Get the hi spec boot too, re use your boot clamp or get TVR new. Get some synthetic cv grease (redline)
New bolts listed above too.
Looks like torsional damage on the shaft, it's ready to let go at the weakest point. I guess heat vibration has done the joint in.
Next time mine are apart it will inspect to see which type I have.
http://www.prolinx.biz/pages/Products/ViewProduct/...
Get the hi spec boot too, re use your boot clamp or get TVR new. Get some synthetic cv grease (redline)
New bolts listed above too.
Looks like torsional damage on the shaft, it's ready to let go at the weakest point. I guess heat vibration has done the joint in.
Next time mine are apart it will inspect to see which type I have.
Andy_mr2sc said:
scerbera said:
The temp of your oil is largely irrelevant. Colder oil will provide a thicker film with a higher resistance to shearing. And so give you higher load carrying. The only real area of concern in a cold engine, and we are only talking very initial startup is that your pistons could expand too quickly for the bore, depending of course on the tolerance. The piston and liner will warm in a few minutes and so with a 30 sec sit on the drive, a 1 min 30 mph limit and get out of the street the engine is warm enough. In my opinion of course.
That's really novel to hear somebody talking sense about warming engines up.Edited by Andy_mr2sc on Wednesday 8th April 07:40
Treat them with the respect they deserve!
That looks like some quality machining there btw!
Edited by tofts on Tuesday 5th May 02:21
The shafts are larger than normal so it looks like there is a large groove. There is a fillet at the end of the spline to remove the rest material from using an end mill to cut splines. There is no need for an inner circlip the splines reduce and the diameter of shaft is above mating surface.
If i was to do it again i would do a little differently. The spline d was cut 2mm too far on reflection.
The main d on these are 33 so much bigger than what its replacing.
The previous one snapped on the profile which holds the end of the boot. No point that being there at all.
If i was to do it again i would do a little differently. The spline d was cut 2mm too far on reflection.
The main d on these are 33 so much bigger than what its replacing.
The previous one snapped on the profile which holds the end of the boot. No point that being there at all.
Hi Gruffalo. Many thanks!
They are not lighter, I didn't weigh them although can work it out later. They could be made lighter with equal strength of originals. Or as I have done slightly heavier but stronger. I used EN26W so a high strength option. I'm not sure of the originals. The weakest point will always be the section prior to the spline.
They are probably overkill but I do intend upping the output of the engine when I have time!
They are not lighter, I didn't weigh them although can work it out later. They could be made lighter with equal strength of originals. Or as I have done slightly heavier but stronger. I used EN26W so a high strength option. I'm not sure of the originals. The weakest point will always be the section prior to the spline.
They are probably overkill but I do intend upping the output of the engine when I have time!
scerbera said:
Hi Gruffalo. Many thanks!
They are not lighter, I didn't weigh them although can work it out later. They could be made lighter with equal strength of originals. Or as I have done slightly heavier but stronger. I used EN26W so a high strength option. I'm not sure of the originals. The weakest point will always be the section prior to the spline.
They are probably overkill but I do intend upping the output of the engine when I have time!
Thanks, the strength is key really, I have already gone down the extra power route and am just waiting to hear that bang.They are not lighter, I didn't weigh them although can work it out later. They could be made lighter with equal strength of originals. Or as I have done slightly heavier but stronger. I used EN26W so a high strength option. I'm not sure of the originals. The weakest point will always be the section prior to the spline.
They are probably overkill but I do intend upping the output of the engine when I have time!
Are you still on originals? If so you must be lucky!
These would probably work out at 300 for the pair. Possibly a fair bit cheaper if I could get bar stock a better starting size. Could probably have time in 6 weeks ish.
It will be good to see if I have any problems with these.
One problem I do have is a hugely leaky crank seal. Or at least it must be. Can it be replaced with engine in situ does anyone know?
These would probably work out at 300 for the pair. Possibly a fair bit cheaper if I could get bar stock a better starting size. Could probably have time in 6 weeks ish.
It will be good to see if I have any problems with these.
One problem I do have is a hugely leaky crank seal. Or at least it must be. Can it be replaced with engine in situ does anyone know?
scerbera said:
Are you still on originals? If so you must be lucky!
These would probably work out at 300 for the pair. Possibly a fair bit cheaper if I could get bar stock a better starting size. Could probably have time in 6 weeks ish.
It will be good to see if I have any problems with these.
One problem I do have is a hugely leaky crank seal. Or at least it must be. Can it be replaced with engine in situ does anyone know?
Pretty sure it is engine out for both the front and rear crank seals.These would probably work out at 300 for the pair. Possibly a fair bit cheaper if I could get bar stock a better starting size. Could probably have time in 6 weeks ish.
It will be good to see if I have any problems with these.
One problem I do have is a hugely leaky crank seal. Or at least it must be. Can it be replaced with engine in situ does anyone know?
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