K5 GSXR-600 - Clutch very stiff...
Discussion
Changing the position of your lever will help a lot. Sit in your normal riding position, stick your fingers out straight in line with your arm try and get the lever on the same angle as that.
I went out on Sat came home struggling with the clutch. Managed to get out before changed the position, went further and not had a issue today.
I went out on Sat came home struggling with the clutch. Managed to get out before changed the position, went further and not had a issue today.
)theshrew said:
Changing the position of your lever will help a lot. Sit in your normal riding position, stick your fingers out straight in line with your arm try and get the lever on the same angle as that.
I went out on Sat came home struggling with the clutch. Managed to get out before changed the position, went further and not had a issue today.
As above. I came back from a long ride on my ZX6-R almost unable to pull the clutch. I adjusted the lever down a bit and all was good.I went out on Sat came home struggling with the clutch. Managed to get out before changed the position, went further and not had a issue today.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Sounds like the same type of mechanism as the SV. Internally there are coarse spiral 'threads' which run on ball bearings. They are quite exposed to water and crud from the chain so the bearing surfaces eventually get worn and pitted and the friction increases considerably. Have you completely stripped, cleaned and re-packed this mechanism with fresh grease? Doing this did improve the clutch action on my dad's SV, but it was still heavy and fitting a complete new mechanism made a big difference. The clutch springs are likely to be a cheaper initial purchase though.
The other thing that makes a big difference is correct adjustment. If it's like the SV there are two points of adjustment; one on the outer clutch cable and the one on the clutch mechanism/push rod. First back off the adjuster on the clutch actuator. Then adjust the cable until the inner cable and the operating arm on the clutch actuator form an angle of just less than 90 degrees. Finally adjust the push rod clearance with the adjuster on the mechanism (screw in until it just starts getting tight then back out 1/4 turn).
The idea is to ensure that the inner cable and operating arm remain as close as possible to 90 degrees (and therefore maximum leverage) throughout the normal clutch operating range.
The clutch basket itself isnt won as well is it?
Like in the picture below.
This will also cause the symptoms you describe.
The basket nut is fine, you sometimes find a gearbox sprocket is held on by a similar tab washer arrangement.
Thinners is brill for getting rid of any remains of gasket and to soften it initially.
Also check the clutch push rod from LC casing of the bike, these can end up getting gunked up, which wont help your cause.
If it was me and with my experience of recent, i would use a genuine Suzuki item on this crankcase cover and not a pattern one.
Im sure you'll crack it.
Like in the picture below.
This will also cause the symptoms you describe.
The basket nut is fine, you sometimes find a gearbox sprocket is held on by a similar tab washer arrangement.
Thinners is brill for getting rid of any remains of gasket and to soften it initially.
Also check the clutch push rod from LC casing of the bike, these can end up getting gunked up, which wont help your cause.
If it was me and with my experience of recent, i would use a genuine Suzuki item on this crankcase cover and not a pattern one.
Im sure you'll crack it.
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