Discussion
Any advice on taking the plenum off (hopefully this sunday)?
Other than the allen bolts it looks like i'll need to separate the throttle, but there are two or three places it appears i could make that separation - any clue which is going to cause the least problems?
There was a website a while ago with some good info but it has disappeared!
Cheers
Other than the allen bolts it looks like i'll need to separate the throttle, but there are two or three places it appears i could make that separation - any clue which is going to cause the least problems?
There was a website a while ago with some good info but it has disappeared!
Cheers
I think the throttle linkage is just the shackle and the big nut on the adjuster removed ...Don't loose any bits though....Fitting is reversal of removal but use some Blue Hylomar to bead a seal around the joining face..You may as well clean the idle air valve on the side...(Wind it nearly all the way out..Although makes sure its not right on the end or the nut can come off)..This will also need a bead of sealant...Try to replace the gasket..I used gasket paper for mine...
jindle said:
Any advice on taking the plenum off (hopefully this sunday)?
Other than the allen bolts it looks like i'll need to separate the throttle, but there are two or three places it appears i could make that separation - any clue which is going to cause the least problems?
There was a website a while ago with some good info but it has disappeared!
Cheers
Any particular reason for taking it off or just curious? Other than the allen bolts it looks like i'll need to separate the throttle, but there are two or three places it appears i could make that separation - any clue which is going to cause the least problems?
There was a website a while ago with some good info but it has disappeared!
Cheers
Essentially you can remove it for a look inside by just disconnecting the cold start injector (hose and electrical plug), the inlet air hose from the throttle body, vacuum line for the distributor from the top of the throttle body and the vacuum line from the over-run valve at the rear, hen whip out the 6 bolts... you can leave the throttle cable and throttle heater hoses attached. Anything further will need the heater hoses and throttle cable off, of course.
All this assumes a V8, incidentally.
jindle said:
Spring clean and a bit of tarting
Hello jindle, Quite right, I couldn't agree more. “Look after your Plenum and your Plenum will look after you!” Eight pages - everything you'll ever need to know about looking after your Efi Plenum Chamber. Open the PDF from this link.
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
Then, to further expand your interest, read all the stuff on this Efi archive.
http://www.vintagemodelairplane.com/pages/Rover_Te...
Have fun!
That was pretty easy wasn't it. I undid the nut on the linkage for the throttle assembly, easy. Two hoses on the bottom for the hot spot were a bit of a nightmare, but it's free now.
Thanks john I'll give that a read. Lots of black goo around my trumpets and crud caked onto the issue of the hose from the flame trap so I'm sure there's loads more to do.
Thanks john I'll give that a read. Lots of black goo around my trumpets and crud caked onto the issue of the hose from the flame trap so I'm sure there's loads more to do.
When was the last time the flame trap mesh was cleaned/Changed?...Also the breather on the N/S rocker cover should be checked as its easily blocked...To remove the mushroom that the gauge and cover sits on is best done when the engine has been warmed a bit...Or you will bend it trying to remove it even though its a push fit.
Quite often, when there are tell-tale signs of crud buildup, you would also be well advised to clean out the breather pipe itself and the gallery that it plugs into in the plenum.
For the pipe I found it much easier to cut it in half to really get the goo out, and the two halves can be joined by pushing over three inches of 15mm plumbing tubing with barely a noticeable join.
The gallery is a bit more fiddly, as it goes round corners. In the past I have blown a cotton thread through the hole, and then attached a string to this. Then you can tie a small rag to the string half-way along and apply some petrol, then pull it back through the hole about 10 times or until it isn't getting gungy.
The reason for cleaning here is that the gallery is usually cooler and the first point that the goo condenses onto. In the past I have had the gallery block up on one car, and the pipe on another. It's usually worth checking every 30k or so. When either blocks up you start to get oil leaks.
For the pipe I found it much easier to cut it in half to really get the goo out, and the two halves can be joined by pushing over three inches of 15mm plumbing tubing with barely a noticeable join.
The gallery is a bit more fiddly, as it goes round corners. In the past I have blown a cotton thread through the hole, and then attached a string to this. Then you can tie a small rag to the string half-way along and apply some petrol, then pull it back through the hole about 10 times or until it isn't getting gungy.
The reason for cleaning here is that the gallery is usually cooler and the first point that the goo condenses onto. In the past I have had the gallery block up on one car, and the pipe on another. It's usually worth checking every 30k or so. When either blocks up you start to get oil leaks.
Edited by adam quantrill on Monday 13th April 19:49
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