aftermarket ecu idle vave of choice ?
Discussion
With so many idle valves on the market what are the preferred items of choice? Are most people still using the faithful bosch 2 wire units, or have there been any advances made with other valves that might be of interest? I must admit I've been a bit biased towards both the 4 wire standard rover or the bosch 2 wire pwm valve .. am I missing a trick ?
DamianS3 said:
I don't run one on my MBE it does it all using timing and fuel.
I am running COP and sequential injection so don't know if this makes a difference.
Cheers
Damian S3 Duratech
I dont intend using a stepper on my current build I will be doing just what you have done batch or seq injection shouldn't make any difference IMO for this to work I am running COP and sequential injection so don't know if this makes a difference.
Cheers
Damian S3 Duratech
I am intending to fit an idle control valve on mine when I change from Motec to Emerald. I am currently using retarded ignition to control idle speed but this appears to be creating a lot of under bonnet heat. The engine sounds as though it's straining or under a slight load (obviously it's not as its out of gear) while its idling. I think I'm right in saying exhaust temperature increases when you retard the ignition, please correct me if I'm wrong.
With an idle control valve I can still increase idle speed for cold starting but have a much calmer idle. Not sure which one emerald recommend but the bosch 2 wire looks simple enough.
Else
With an idle control valve I can still increase idle speed for cold starting but have a much calmer idle. Not sure which one emerald recommend but the bosch 2 wire looks simple enough.
Else
Ive done it most ways in the past, RV8 stepper, 2 wire bosch, no valve at all .. my least favourite is no valve at all as you often have to use a retarded base ignition value to get more idle airflow so that ramping up the ignition works better on very cold starts. Obviously if you don't mind tickling the throttle for a few mins you can get away without this so much, or are maybe prepared to spend longer on your cold start and warm up trims to get it to work well. However on balance for most people it's probably the poorer option and some kind of idle valve makes life much easier for cold starting / slightly higher cold idle speed.
Else said:
I am intending to fit an idle control valve on mine when I change from Motec to Emerald. I am currently using retarded ignition to control idle speed but this appears to be creating a lot of under bonnet heat. The engine sounds as though it's straining or under a slight load (obviously it's not as its out of gear) while its idling. I think I'm right in saying exhaust temperature increases when you retard the ignition, please correct me if I'm wrong.
With an idle control valve I can still increase idle speed for cold starting but have a much calmer idle. Not sure which one emerald recommend but the bosch 2 wire looks simple enough.
Else
Did some basic tests this evening and sure enough if i advance the ignition back to a reasonable value, 6 degrees, (was at zero) and drop the idle speed back with the throttle stop i can reduce the engine temp by over 10 degrees. And it sounds much happier, ticking over quietly, not straining like it was before.With an idle control valve I can still increase idle speed for cold starting but have a much calmer idle. Not sure which one emerald recommend but the bosch 2 wire looks simple enough.
Else
Else said:
Did some basic tests this evening and sure enough if i advance the ignition back to a reasonable value, 6 degrees, (was at zero) and drop the idle speed back with the throttle stop i can reduce the engine temp by over 10 degrees. And it sounds much happier, ticking over quietly, not straining like it was before.
I bet it would like a bit more as well.I run my tickover at 15 degrees which requires less air flow than yours running at 6 but it still just about ticks over from cold with no idle valve. After literally a few minutes it ticks over perfect.
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