cv jointed driveshafts
Discussion
Out of curiosity and research...
I can see the benefit, fit and forget along with new hub bearing/housing (non triumph) but do wonder, are they too good to be true!?
I saw some (both new hub bearing assembly and hub and cv dri driveshafts at Burghley) and wonder if anyone has fitted?
They're alot of money in my eyes but would they actually be any good or no real value for money?
Other option is the new hub bearing but still run UJ's
I can see the benefit, fit and forget along with new hub bearing/housing (non triumph) but do wonder, are they too good to be true!?
I saw some (both new hub bearing assembly and hub and cv dri driveshafts at Burghley) and wonder if anyone has fitted?
They're alot of money in my eyes but would they actually be any good or no real value for money?
Other option is the new hub bearing but still run UJ's
Are there any details anywhere online?
The current setup has lasted for over 100k miles in my Vixen - apart from new bearings in the rear uprights, they seem to have stood up really well (although they may have been changed and not recorded in the paperwork I have).
The advantage of CV joints would remove the need for the sliding driveshafts and could accept more power, I suppose.
The current setup has lasted for over 100k miles in my Vixen - apart from new bearings in the rear uprights, they seem to have stood up really well (although they may have been changed and not recorded in the paperwork I have).
The advantage of CV joints would remove the need for the sliding driveshafts and could accept more power, I suppose.
Rimmers do them and also;
http://classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/gal.asp?gID...
The new hubs bearings are changeable if any play and can be done at home, also no UJ's to wear out...
http://classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/gal.asp?gID...
The new hubs bearings are changeable if any play and can be done at home, also no UJ's to wear out...
http://www.classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/cats.as... was the guy at Burghley, look a nice bit of engineering to me.
whitewolf said:
I've hand my hands on these physically and do look impressive, I really like the idea of doing away with any maintenance/wearing parts.
CV joints are also a wear part. They may last longer, than UJs, but they also cost a fair bit more. Look for the highest quality UJs, with grease zerk fittings, and maintain them, and they will last longer than you need them to. Best regards,
Bernard.
You know its funny…I have replaced more CV joints on FWD cars than I care to remember, and yet I have never really had any problems with prop shafts or Rear drive shaft U/J's…
U/J's and splines are fantastic provided you occasionally maintain your car!!
U/J's are probably stronger than CV's!!
The issue with the rear of vixens is that of spline lock, something that I don't think is too bad a problem on a relatively low powered light car, more of a problem on Triumphs.
N.
U/J's and splines are fantastic provided you occasionally maintain your car!!
U/J's are probably stronger than CV's!!
The issue with the rear of vixens is that of spline lock, something that I don't think is too bad a problem on a relatively low powered light car, more of a problem on Triumphs.
N.
Looking at what they have there ...it 'looks' like they have latched onto the M...as a selling point, because they fit to the TR. BUT this version looks to only fit to 73-77 cars as the Jaguar diff TVR has a forged conversion yoke that mimics the disc that 'would ' of been there on the Jaguar...I cannot see any reason to spend money on this, unless you are racing...that is that want to dial into a rear hub a point that you can then equate as a service life from the day of purchase... (because that is what racing is all about).
Adrian@
Adrian@
Thanks guys, I did think that it was a triumph fit and then labelled for the M, also a friend suggested this too!
In reality, my based idea was that I have had a fwd car from new and done 116k miles and only had to change 1 cv boot.
So far on the Tvr I have changed all UJ's and 1 rear wheel bearing, the otherside soon to follow.
However I do recall the previous owner doing lots of near full rev launches and perhaps the after effects are my pick ups.
In all fairness I won't be racing the Taimar, nor have massive power through the running gear.
I do appreciate peoples input and decided I'll stay as is!
Just asking, do people agree with EP2 grease for UJ's?
Read ep3 is high temp (possibly too hogh for uj's? And ep (1) not much good?
In reality, my based idea was that I have had a fwd car from new and done 116k miles and only had to change 1 cv boot.
So far on the Tvr I have changed all UJ's and 1 rear wheel bearing, the otherside soon to follow.
However I do recall the previous owner doing lots of near full rev launches and perhaps the after effects are my pick ups.
In all fairness I won't be racing the Taimar, nor have massive power through the running gear.
I do appreciate peoples input and decided I'll stay as is!
Just asking, do people agree with EP2 grease for UJ's?
Read ep3 is high temp (possibly too hogh for uj's? And ep (1) not much good?
whitewolf said:
Just asking, do people agree with EP2 grease for UJ's?
Read ep3 is high temp (possibly too hogh for uj's? And ep (1) not much good?
Don't know the answer...but just read a good discussion on here: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/u-joint-grease.248...Read ep3 is high temp (possibly too hogh for uj's? And ep (1) not much good?
TL;DR version:
Grease frequently, and use what you've got. Grease at every oil change as a minimum.
Consider only using moly greases for sliding joints.
Ive just fitted a similar setup on my Taimar, mainly because I needed a new diff and a driveshaft! although ive only done around a 100 miles its certainly feels nicer and quitter if that's possible. the suspension feels more compliant as well.
although I still have a small amount of movement on the drive shafts when the suspension is at full travel, I am monitoring this and will probably be going with Adrian's recommendation of fitting shorter length shocks in the future.
although I still have a small amount of movement on the drive shafts when the suspension is at full travel, I am monitoring this and will probably be going with Adrian's recommendation of fitting shorter length shocks in the future.
Another option is to make you own. I've made a spacer ring that convert the 6 holes in the uprights to a 4 holee pattern, that fit BMW E39 rear bearings, and shortened the driveshafts to match. If yo uhave the option to do a bit of machining work is the solution not that difficult. Other rear parts can be used if other bolt patterns is preffered.
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