Main beam blowing fuses
Discussion
The main beam keeps blowing the fuses each time I operate it. I'd removed the pod to re-solder the pins on the main wiring connector at the back that had started causing the sidelights and hazards to be flakey and intermittent. That fixed those problems but now I've put it back together I've got the new problem!! 
I don't know if it was doing that before I started messing with it or not....
I've the checked the board and cleaned the connections to the fuseboard but can't find anything obvious. Has anyone else had this?
I don't know if it was doing that before I started messing with it or not....
I've the checked the board and cleaned the connections to the fuseboard but can't find anything obvious. Has anyone else had this?
I had this problem a while back, turned out to be a short circuit. Unfortunately an electrician found it for me, so I don't know where. I believe it was a wire that had rubbed and removed the insulation that caused the short.
Sorry, this isn't directly useful, but may give you something to check.
Sorry, this isn't directly useful, but may give you something to check.
I had same issue!
Turned out it was the fuse/fuse-way itself. It had got a little oxidised - resulting in higher resistance - more current draw equals blown fuse(s). A squirt with electrical spray sorted problem. Been OK for last 3 odd years.
If you have HID main beams, the inrush current is momentarily high whilst the "discharge" establishes itself. Also, my handbook has a line through the current rating of fuse (fuse number 20?)changing it to a 20A fuse (from 15A).
Nick
Turned out it was the fuse/fuse-way itself. It had got a little oxidised - resulting in higher resistance - more current draw equals blown fuse(s). A squirt with electrical spray sorted problem. Been OK for last 3 odd years.
If you have HID main beams, the inrush current is momentarily high whilst the "discharge" establishes itself. Also, my handbook has a line through the current rating of fuse (fuse number 20?)changing it to a 20A fuse (from 15A).
Nick
Well I spoke too soon....I put the fuseboard and dash pod back in and now it's blowing fuses again!!! 
I'm just wondering if TVR employed a lot of children at the factory? It's seems you need either have the hands of a small child or be a contortionist to be able to work under the dash/upside down in the f
king footwell!!!
I'm just wondering if TVR employed a lot of children at the factory? It's seems you need either have the hands of a small child or be a contortionist to be able to work under the dash/upside down in the f
king footwell!!!FOT Fast said:
Well I spoke too soon....I put the fuseboard and dash pod back in and now it's blowing fuses again!!!
I'm just wondering if TVR employed a lot of children at the factory? It's seems you need either have the hands of a small child or be a contortionist to be able to work under the dash/upside down in the fking footwell!!!
OK, guess you know, but fuse/relay board can be de-mounted from car...couple of 10mm(?) bolts will allow it to swing down. Doh! Just read your 1st sentence!!I'm just wondering if TVR employed a lot of children at the factory? It's seems you need either have the hands of a small child or be a contortionist to be able to work under the dash/upside down in the f
king footwell!!!Have you checked for water tracking across the fuse board?
Secondly, have you looked at connections on the light unit itself. Terminals can get 'crusty'.
Nick
Bit of a long shot and you will probably already checked.
On mine the ribbon cable that goes from the light switch circuit board to the main circuit boards (can't remember which one) with an angled plug on the end had a couple of fractured wires at the soldered end.
One of these shorting might be enough to blow something?
I de-soldered the ribbon cable chopped a few mm of the end and soldered it back and it solved my intermittent lights and fog light problem. Turned out to be a really easy fix.
On mine the ribbon cable that goes from the light switch circuit board to the main circuit boards (can't remember which one) with an angled plug on the end had a couple of fractured wires at the soldered end.
One of these shorting might be enough to blow something?
I de-soldered the ribbon cable chopped a few mm of the end and soldered it back and it solved my intermittent lights and fog light problem. Turned out to be a really easy fix.
Well I still haven't fixed the main beam problem and I've been reliably informed it's probably the HID lights I fitted that are causing the problem. Has anyone else had this? Would fitting a 25A fuse cure the problem or am I in danger of melting the wiring?
I realised something odd was going on when each light worked individually but not both together.
I realised something odd was going on when each light worked individually but not both together.
FOT Fast said:
Well I still haven't fixed the main beam problem and I've been reliably informed it's probably the HID lights I fitted that are causing the problem. Has anyone else had this? Would fitting a 25A fuse cure the problem or am I in danger of melting the wiring?
I realised something odd was going on when each light worked individually but not both together.
I wouldn't go higher current on the fuse IMHO.I realised something odd was going on when each light worked individually but not both together.
Your comment re the 2 lights coming "ON" separately might cause me to think that it was the HID box/generator that is the root cause.
Nick
IIRC HIDs have a high startup current. See if you can find a slow blow fuse and see if that cures it. Ideally get one at 15A and then work up to 20 A rather than just accepting 20A from the start. EG, ther emight be something in here: http://www.mouser.com/Circuit-Protection/Fuses/Aut...
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