Newbie K20 engine questions
Discussion
I've done hours of looking at engine options and the VTec is looking good again, for my off road race buggy.
Some questions...
Is the K20 the most popular of the VTec engines? I'm looking for something on a budget.
What sort of price should I expect to pay for a working decent engine?
Can I use the original ECU? Is there a wiring diagram to make the engine run without the donor cars wiring loom?
There's variants of the engine right? What should I look for? Is it just the models being updated from year to year?
Some questions...
Is the K20 the most popular of the VTec engines? I'm looking for something on a budget.
What sort of price should I expect to pay for a working decent engine?
Can I use the original ECU? Is there a wiring diagram to make the engine run without the donor cars wiring loom?
There's variants of the engine right? What should I look for? Is it just the models being updated from year to year?
Hi the one to have is the K20a2 from the UKDM civic ep3 type R, better if you can find one is the integra type R DC5 JDM a few more bhp and bit more torque from suble changes, almost esential to have the loom and ecu and key, altho if you are going to Hondata the ECU you can disable the immobiliser.
Or if it's torque and not BHP your after then a K24 out of the Accord type R will do but these bring very strong money these days as folk put the K20 head on them so retain the VTEC. EBay shows the prices.
THE K20A2 Is the best ever 4 CYL production N/A engine ever made, 200 solid for ever BHP thats Sierra Cosworth stuff!!! good for 80K miles and rev and rev with out protest, after 8750 you need ARP bolts and Forged pistonsand maybe valve springs.
Or if it's torque and not BHP your after then a K24 out of the Accord type R will do but these bring very strong money these days as folk put the K20 head on them so retain the VTEC. EBay shows the prices.
THE K20A2 Is the best ever 4 CYL production N/A engine ever made, 200 solid for ever BHP thats Sierra Cosworth stuff!!! good for 80K miles and rev and rev with out protest, after 8750 you need ARP bolts and Forged pistonsand maybe valve springs.
Great info. What do you mean when you say that people fit the K20 head to the K24 to retain the VTec?
I'm starting to agree about the VTec being the best. I've looked at a lot of engines only the VTec ticks all the boxes; it's modern, powerful, light, designed for performance, all alloy, well built, well supported.
I'm starting to agree about the VTec being the best. I've looked at a lot of engines only the VTec ticks all the boxes; it's modern, powerful, light, designed for performance, all alloy, well built, well supported.
Hi The K24 2.4 ltr does not have full I-vtec like the K20 does and they don't rev like the K20 does, so the easy mod is K20a2 head on the 2.4 bottom end, with all that torque you don't need to rev them, but it is addictive, just be mindful that above 8500/8750 Honda pistons and rods can become a suspect weak link.
Don't bother creating a Frankenstein K24 for an off road buggy; it won't need that extra torque for the additional cost and effort that will be required.
The regular K20a2 is an utterly bulletproof engine, and if you want more then an inlet swap, manifold and exhaust swap plus a Hondata ECU and mapping will see around 240bhp and a much more lively motor.
If you have the time/facilities/experience then my advice would be to buy a complete but ropey EP3, take what you need and break the rest to make some of the cost back.
If the motor you use has anywhere around 100k on it and is going to be violated in a buggy then you may want to consider doing a chain swap before fitting as they do stretch around that mileage, particularly if they've had a hard life. Very rare for them to snap but they can stretch a tooth or two.
They're used in the Ariel Atom and for good reason no doubt; a superb engine that is perfectly suited to a lightweight application... It's up there along with the C20XE as a contender for the greatest 2.0 4cyl N/A ever made in my opinion.
The regular K20a2 is an utterly bulletproof engine, and if you want more then an inlet swap, manifold and exhaust swap plus a Hondata ECU and mapping will see around 240bhp and a much more lively motor.
If you have the time/facilities/experience then my advice would be to buy a complete but ropey EP3, take what you need and break the rest to make some of the cost back.
If the motor you use has anywhere around 100k on it and is going to be violated in a buggy then you may want to consider doing a chain swap before fitting as they do stretch around that mileage, particularly if they've had a hard life. Very rare for them to snap but they can stretch a tooth or two.
They're used in the Ariel Atom and for good reason no doubt; a superb engine that is perfectly suited to a lightweight application... It's up there along with the C20XE as a contender for the greatest 2.0 4cyl N/A ever made in my opinion.
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