sr3 rs paddleshift question

[jaynobleM12]

Hey guys

Recently brought a sr3 rs and just starting to take a deeper look before my first trackday in it next month.

We ran her up to temp yesterday and was just getting a feel for clutch and gears.
I was having trouble selecting first and neutral. Having read the manual properly now it says i should be pulling the left paddle to select first gear then the right paddle for 2nd and above. Is this right? Been looking closely at people vids on youtube and people are doing different things. Some are pushing the button on the wheel first? Then using the left or right paddle?

Any tips would be great.

The manual doesnt say anything about the button on the wheel?

Best regards

J

[anonymous-user]

It's the gearbox of a motorbike. The left paddle is pushing the lever down and the right paddle is pulling the lever up. So going one down (left) is for 1st gear.

[double d racing]

Unless its a different system to the one Ive been using for the past few years ...it is...
Assuming in NEUTRAL
depress clutch
depress and hold down button steering wheel
PULL the left hand paddle
should be 1st selected....
Move off and PULL the right hand paddle to move up the gears...
to move down the gears PULL the left paddle.
( the paddles do not push ! )
at end of session....
come to a halt with clutch depressed..
if you are in 1st,
depress and hold the button
PULL the right paddle
If in 2nd
Depress and hold down button
PULL the left paddle.
( Neutral sits between 1st and 2nd gear )
Hope that helps...
DD

[jaynobleM12]

This is absolutely perfect!!! Mate thanks for the post!!! Greatly appreciated!!!! Lots to learn and first bike engined toy. Looking forward to hitting track

Many thanks

J

[BertBert]

And just to add on the Sr3, the button is not a failsafe neutral selector. It's kind of a limp-wristed half-shift. So you often end up going back and forth trying to get neutral. I found it was a bit of a mind game. The best way was to hold the button and give the paddle (L or R depending) a bit of a half hearted flick. Kind of look into the distance like you really don't care (that pit-girl's arse is much more interesting) and give it a laconic don't care if you do or don't find neutral, I can always leave you in gear if you don't want to play ball kind of flick.

Bert

[Sigmamark7]

J
Where are you taking the Radical for your Trackday?
I have had noise problems with mine at Bedford, Castle Combe and was close to the limits at Mallory and Donington, so it is worth making sure you can pass the noise test before you go!

[Pat Cash]

BertBert said:

Kind of look into the distance like you really don't care (that pit-girl's arse is much more interesting) and give it a laconic don't care if you do or don't find neutral, I can always leave you in gear if you don't want to play ball kind of flick.

Bert

Definitely this!

[With these feet]

Sigmamark7 said:

J
Where are you taking the Radical for your Trackday?
I have had noise problems with mine at Bedford, Castle Combe and was close to the limits at Mallory and Donington, so it is worth making sure you can pass the noise test before you go!

What silencer do you have? There is a quiet option that we use all the time, think its about 102 dB. However Ive had to have it dismantled and rebuilt as it shook itself to death!

I'd also add if the car won't go into first, let the clutch up and reapply, usually goes in after that. Worth checking the shift actuator as well, ive got to replace the spherical joint and housing due to wear.

[jaynobleM12]

Bert bert----that is hilarious!!! but sounds a bit like what i had!! I will try the pit girl technique

Sigmamark ---- I'm off to anglesey on the 12th june. I have never been there but the guy i got the rs from had the box and engine refreshed and he had done a day there with no trouble....and anglesey and donnington don't to static tests just fly bys? (silverstone aswell i believe). I hate static tests, came from a rotrex charged atom which would always hot 118db on static but on flybys was fine!!! So i couldn't do hardly any trackways in it!

With these feet ---- He done the day with the race exhaust on with no trouble!!! But i also have a track exhaust and if they both fail i have a bolt on tailpipe silencer which looks like a mushroom which knocks 8db's off so i (should) be covered. But i will be picking days without static tests! I hate them, was a nightmare in the atom so in the radical would be just as frustrating i guess.

We ran the car up to temps slowly on saturday....again just getting a feel for everything. Was running for 10 mins then turning off for 10 mins and letting the oil catch up with the water temps. Took 3 goes until i hit the magic 50. I have brought a wolverine heat pad for the oil tank with will help with this, ill be setting it in and wiring up this week.

All that i really need to do is work out wheel changes. I have the air jacks built in but no bottles etc for it to work yet so will be manual for the time being......Jacking up from the rear looks ok. Any of you guys jacked them up from the front?...i can build up the front with bits of wood and get her up a few inches...enough to get a low level jack under? :/


Guys really grateful for the advice!! really appreciated!!! Thank you very much!!!!

J

[Pat Cash]

With these feet said:

Worth checking the shift actuator as well, ive got to replace the spherical joint and housing due to wear.

How did that manifest itself? Or did you just notice on inspection?

Cheers!

[double d racing]

All that i really need to do is work out wheel changes. I have the air jacks built in but no bottles etc for it to work yet so will be manual for the time being......Jacking up from the rear looks ok. Any of you guys jacked them up from the front?...i can build up the front with bits of wood and get her up a few inches...enough to get a low level jack under? :/

First of all try the low level jack - it might go under !
Second when inserting the jack , keep the lifting plate level - ie do not look at anybody's arse whilst inserting...
If still wont go under, two bits of 20-30mm thick wood, a bit longer than the contact patch on the tyres will be enough, unless you have an enormous jack.......( Ok Ok ...)
Insert the jack far enough to pick up a front "crossmember", and then mark the jack accordingly.
Be aware if you have not used a low level jack before that when you lift the car it will move forward a little, so if you are on axle stands on the back, or another jack ( dodgy !! ), then it may throw itself on the floor...
If it does......... go into a limp wristed tantrum...( Brill description Bert )
If you want all four wheels off the ground at the same time,
Do Fronts first, then rears. ( if you lift the rears 1st, it takes away all the clearance at the front )
Ideal world.....
Use Low level jack for front
Use normal trolley jack at back
and as the actress said to the bishop...keep checking its inserted correctly, and do it slowly !!

[jaynobleM12]

Legend!!!! thakyou very much!!!

Lots to learn and excited to hit track now!!! Im sure ill be prepared,,,,,will all come down to weather,,,,,and on the coast i bet she's wet!!!!

J

[With these feet]

Pat Cash said:

How did that manifest itself? Or did you just notice on inspection?

Cheers!

On inspection. I can get the car on my 2 poster ramp so give it a good look over.

One thing thats always bugged me is how you drain the oil.
Ive always dropped the Aeroquip oil line off the tank, is that really the only way? Might get my mate to weld a drain plug in....

[Sigmamark7]

With these feet said:

What silencer do you have? There is a quiet option that we use all the time, think its about 102 dB. However Ive had to have it dismantled and rebuilt as it shook itself to death!.

I have the Radical Race Exhaust = 105dB, the Radical "Quiet Exhaust = 103dB and have had a twin silencer system built to get under 100dB (for Castle Combe). I'm waiting to collect that one because it was 104dB at Combe when I first tried it! My "quiet exhaust" is in perfect condition, apart from the fact that it isn't quiet!!

WRT changing wheels, make sure that you can undo them with the tools you have, because they can be an absolute arse to undo. I ended up buying an impact wrench (in addition to a 5' Torque Wrench) and regularly undo and redo the wheel nuts to avoid them sticking too much.

I'm sure Anglesey will be epic in the Radical wet or dry, so have a great day and let us know how you get on.

[double d racing]

Impact gun.
Just bought one of these...works superbly !!

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details...

DD

[dptdpt]

Just a couple of other things to bear in mind, disengage the clutch between first and second to save stress on the transmission Disengage the clutch when swapping ends otherwise the starter motor will turn to dust, when it happens Extreme Engines in Cambridge supply an after market one for half the price. C E S Europe supply all the bits to use the air jack.

[jaynobleM12]

This is all prefect. Thank again for all the advice!!!

sigmamark7 --- I've heard some of these exhaust silencers aren't quiet at all on these.....what are they asking for on static? 7k? I hate these tests, done a few noise days with goldbrick at donny to avoid trouble in the past.

double d racing --- thanks david, legend!!

dptdpt --- Thats interesting! notes taken. Do you guys always refresh the engines at radical directly or are there specialists you rather use? Must admit i was impressed with the tour of the radical factory and they couldn't be more helpful either.

Thanks again guys, will let you know how anglesey goes, I'm sure ill have questions

J

[BertBert]

jaynobleM12 said:

We ran the car up to temps slowly on saturday....again just getting a feel for everything. Was running for 10 mins then turning off for 10 mins and letting the oil catch up with the water temps. Took 3 goes until i hit the magic 50. I have brought a wolverine heat pad for the oil tank with will help with this, ill be setting it in and wiring up this week.

You'll find that the oil temp shoots back down again when you go out. I used to completely tape up both the water and the oil cooler sides of the sidepods, then go out and do 3 quiet laps in quali. Stops the cooling and gets it warmer. Come back in and take one tape off the oil side and 2 off the coolant - give it some beans.

BTW there is somewhere on here Bert's "lore of gaffa" which I penned one evening.

Bert

[With these feet]

dptdpt said:

Just a couple of other things to bear in mind, disengage the clutch between first and second to save stress on the transmission Disengage the clutch when swapping ends otherwise the starter motor will turn to dust, when it happens Extreme Engines in Cambridge supply an after market one for half the price. C E S Europe supply all the bits to use the air jack.

Agree entirely on the quick on the clutch quote.
I have tried to fit a pattern starter previously but for some reason it would not fit. Also be aware if you do st a starter keep an eye on the casing it sits in, its liable to cracking that is evident by a tricky to trace oil leak!

As for air bottles, ive found a company that you buy the bottles from and then you're supposed to get them filled by them again ( not cheap) if you find a friendly dive centre then fill them with air - my guy charges £8 for a Y size. Cheaper still if a friend has a bottle compressor.....

[BertBert]

RPE advise the cleaning out of the swarf that comes from buzzing the starter including taking off the (dry) sump pan and cleaning it. A bit of a hassle but I got a lot of debris out of mine when Master Bert span it and didn't get both feet in at Donington.

Bert