shears bolt

Author
Discussion

barnsweeper

Original Poster:

258 posts

107 months

Thursday 28th May 2015
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Hi everyone I'm new on here so I thought I would ask the more experienced for some advice, my son was the owner of a 99 chim which failed the not on rotten outriggers, so unable to do anything about it at the time he stored the car in a lockup round the corner and cancelled the insurance, three weeks later we were informed that there had been a car fire four garages down, when we went to look the chin was heavily smoke damaged so my son abandoned it for five years,kept on at him do something with it but he had lost interest, two weeks ago he came in dropped the keys and docs in my lap and said here you can have it I'm done, so I went round armed with some rubbing compound and began cleaning it up and managed to remove a lot of the soot from the paintwork, I decided there and then I would try and rescue the car and began to remove the body (total novice) unfortunately I have shears one of the seatbelt stalk bolts its shears off flush, I've tried drilling it but its not having it, I'm trying to work in a 10' x 16' lockup with a generator for power, any advice will be gratefully accepted, as its been stood it looks like the corrosion has taken a real tool on the chassis however even after being stood for five years it fired up on the first turn off the key.

Barreti

6,680 posts

237 months

Thursday 28th May 2015
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which bolt is it - top above the shoulder or bottom behind the seat holding the reel or bottom against the tunnel?

barnsweeper

Original Poster:

258 posts

107 months

Thursday 28th May 2015
quotequote all
Hi its the blind bolt that holds the seatbelt stalk which goes into the tunnel.

ukdj

1,004 posts

184 months

Thursday 28th May 2015
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Not teaching you to suck eggs but, there are drill bits & then there are drill bits, these bolts are at least 8.8's and will probably need a good quality cobalt bit at the least to make any headway.

make sure you use plenty of cutting oil to keep the bit cool, and drill relatively slowly, not full throttle as you'll just blunt the bit.

With limited access, your options possibly don't allow for access from below to cut through the bolt, but as long as the head of the bolt is off and the bolt ground flush with the body, you can when ready lift the body and deal with rectifying the situation much easier with unfettered access to the chassis/mounting point.

barnsweeper

Original Poster:

258 posts

107 months

Thursday 28th May 2015
quotequote all
Hi thanks for the reply, I have just looked up the markings on the bolt head and according to this it is a medium carbon steel tempered and quenched and has a tensile strength of 105,000 pound per square inch, I will go and get some decent cobalt drill bits tomorrow and try and drill it out, will post how it goes.

Colin RedGriff

2,527 posts

257 months

Thursday 28th May 2015
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If it's sheared off flush then you should still be able to lift the body and then you'll have better access to it

barnsweeper

Original Poster:

258 posts

107 months

Thursday 28th May 2015
quotequote all
Hi I wasn't sure how thick the fibreglass was in the tunnel,

Barreti

6,680 posts

237 months

Thursday 28th May 2015
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You can get to that bracket on the chassis if you drop the exhaust. I had a look tonight.

If you're lifting the body. Anyway you could cut the bracket off with a grinder and a thin cutting blade from underneath and replace the bracket when the body is off.

Graham

16,368 posts

284 months

Friday 29th May 2015
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barnsweeper said:
Hi its the blind bolt that holds the seatbelt stalk which goes into the tunnel.
I snapped an outer one on mine in the outrigger and the body still came off ok

barnsweeper

Original Poster:

258 posts

107 months

Monday 1st June 2015
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Hi thanks to everyone who made suggestions for removing my sheard bolt, and thanks to barreti who suggested I could cut off the bracket from underneath after removing the exhaust which I did. Thanks everyone.