PIllar Drill and Panelling.. advise needed
Discussion
Hey Guys
I finally cranked up the pillar drill yesterday to test it and use it to drill my rivet jig. The test got me concerned:
1) how do I prevent the jig/ally sheet from moving around during the drilling process? If using a regular hand drill, I could possibly skinpin the ally sheet to the work table and just drill, and the sheet would not move as it is skinpinned. However, for use with the pillar drill, I cannot pin it to the worktable as it has to be moved under the drill for every hole. This is causing issues during the drilling process - the jig kept moving slightly and even moving upwards into the drill bit.
2) how to get the best accuracy with a pillar drill? With a hand drill, you can align the drill bit to a centerpunch/hole... but with a pillar drill, the drill bit end is a little high up in the air and not always EXACTLY on top of where I want to drill (if that makes any sense)
Thanks everyone!
I finally cranked up the pillar drill yesterday to test it and use it to drill my rivet jig. The test got me concerned:
1) how do I prevent the jig/ally sheet from moving around during the drilling process? If using a regular hand drill, I could possibly skinpin the ally sheet to the work table and just drill, and the sheet would not move as it is skinpinned. However, for use with the pillar drill, I cannot pin it to the worktable as it has to be moved under the drill for every hole. This is causing issues during the drilling process - the jig kept moving slightly and even moving upwards into the drill bit.
2) how to get the best accuracy with a pillar drill? With a hand drill, you can align the drill bit to a centerpunch/hole... but with a pillar drill, the drill bit end is a little high up in the air and not always EXACTLY on top of where I want to drill (if that makes any sense)
Thanks everyone!
When using the jig drill the first hole and skin pin the jig to that hole. Then drill the last hole your jig will reach and skin pin the jig to that hole. All is now secure for you to drill the holes in between.
When using the pillar drill as you were you still need to punch the hole position then just hold the work piece lightly as you bring the drill down which will allow the drill to centre on your punch mark. Once it has started you can hold on a bit tighter.
Steve
When using the pillar drill as you were you still need to punch the hole position then just hold the work piece lightly as you bring the drill down which will allow the drill to centre on your punch mark. Once it has started you can hold on a bit tighter.
Steve
No need at all to use the pillar drill (drill press on this side of the pond) for the alloy sheets. It's far more efficient (and simpler!) to use a rivet fan for layout, followed by center punching, and drilling with a hand drill. When drilling thousands of holes on my airplane, I used a lightweight pneumatic drill; for the car, I just used my battery drill.
Clamp a sheet of ½" or ¾" particle board to the top of your workbench, then drill through the alloy directly into it, and cleco the sheet in place. I typically start at one end, then drill every fourth hole, clecoing as I go. When I get to the other end, I just go back and quickly drill the remaining holes. Easy peasy.
Don't forget to deburr both sides!
Ken
Clamp a sheet of ½" or ¾" particle board to the top of your workbench, then drill through the alloy directly into it, and cleco the sheet in place. I typically start at one end, then drill every fourth hole, clecoing as I go. When I get to the other end, I just go back and quickly drill the remaining holes. Easy peasy.
Don't forget to deburr both sides!
Ken
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