Searching for engine noise thread
Discussion
Can't help regards vid, but that tapping could be the exhaust manifold loose or blowing where it meets the heads, even a split in the manifold causing said noise, I'd go for old gaskets blowing out and that's often a cause of a tapping sound,
Nip up bolts, let manifolds go stone cold, then fire engine and instantly feel around suspect area, if you feel the exhaust gases being forced out there's likely to be your problem.
Goodluck Alan
Nip up bolts, let manifolds go stone cold, then fire engine and instantly feel around suspect area, if you feel the exhaust gases being forced out there's likely to be your problem.
Goodluck Alan
Cheers fellas,
The video I was refering to was taken round the engine bay but thanks.
I'd already started thinking through pulling the engine but the manifold gasket might be the answer.
None of the bolts are tight!
Some of them are barely tight enough to close the spring washer, like two fingers on the spanner tight.
This might be a blessing in disguise as it won't be a big fight getting the manifolds off.
Tightened the #8 manifold bolts but it's still blowing, guess the gasket has been blown away. I did the tissue on a stick test and it flapped like crazy.
The noise completely stops with the plug lead off but I thought it might be the same if a little end failed.
The video I was refering to was taken round the engine bay but thanks.
I'd already started thinking through pulling the engine but the manifold gasket might be the answer.
None of the bolts are tight!
Some of them are barely tight enough to close the spring washer, like two fingers on the spanner tight.
This might be a blessing in disguise as it won't be a big fight getting the manifolds off.
Tightened the #8 manifold bolts but it's still blowing, guess the gasket has been blown away. I did the tissue on a stick test and it flapped like crazy.
The noise completely stops with the plug lead off but I thought it might be the same if a little end failed.
Better still take it to a TVR expert and pay him to do it. He has all the know how and all the funny shaped spanners to do it in double quick time, and you get to keep your temper and knuckle skin for another day.
A few people recently have sheared those bolts off trying to do it themselves, with the inevitable loss of TVR time and extra cost.
You know it makes sense.....
A few people recently have sheared those bolts off trying to do it themselves, with the inevitable loss of TVR time and extra cost.
You know it makes sense.....
QBee said:
Better still take it to a TVR expert and pay him to do it. He has all the know how and all the funny shaped spanners to do it in double quick time, and you get to keep your temper and knuckle skin for another day.
A few people recently have sheared those bolts off trying to do it themselves, with the inevitable loss of TVR time and extra cost.
You know it makes sense.....
Thanks and yes it does make sense A few people recently have sheared those bolts off trying to do it themselves, with the inevitable loss of TVR time and extra cost.
You know it makes sense.....
however I like jobs that are a total b4stard, worse it gets the more patience I've got.
Tool bag is full of spanners cut in half or with shoulders ground off.
All the bolts are loose anyway, should be fun.
The bolt heads are 14mm / 9/16" which thread is it? Was thinking of replacing with capheads
I like your style Alan, come on Anthony, you can go through flow charts or is it pie charts in your line of work,
A few old manifold bolts won't hold Al back,,, hahah
It's all a lot easier if you release the Y from the manifolds,,, it's all sort of sprung together so I found it far easier when Y was loosened, also Peter ( Phazed ) encouraged me to remove starter motor when I first did mine,,, it's a very good idea, takes only a few minutes to remove and now you can actually get at the last two bolts on the O/S rear of the manifold,
Another bonus is, whilst the starters on the floor get some heat shield and wrap the starter, I fixed mine with two heavy duty cable ties and popped it back in place,, bit of heat protection never hurts.
Anthony, I'll do you a deal,,,,
You bring some accountancy wizardry to my finances and I'll pull your car a part in the off season and buff it up, lolololol
It's late,, I better get to bed!
A few old manifold bolts won't hold Al back,,, hahah
It's all a lot easier if you release the Y from the manifolds,,, it's all sort of sprung together so I found it far easier when Y was loosened, also Peter ( Phazed ) encouraged me to remove starter motor when I first did mine,,, it's a very good idea, takes only a few minutes to remove and now you can actually get at the last two bolts on the O/S rear of the manifold,
Another bonus is, whilst the starters on the floor get some heat shield and wrap the starter, I fixed mine with two heavy duty cable ties and popped it back in place,, bit of heat protection never hurts.
Anthony, I'll do you a deal,,,,
You bring some accountancy wizardry to my finances and I'll pull your car a part in the off season and buff it up, lolololol
It's late,, I better get to bed!
You can replace the bolts with a set from ARP which have smaller heads, which allows better spanner access, along with nordlock washers instead of the spring type which over time/heat cycles have probably lost most of their spring, and last but not least the large bore gaskets, all alvailable from the link below & other suppliers obviously
Gaskets, Bolts & Washers Job done!
Gaskets, Bolts & Washers Job done!
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