Discussion
They were galvanaized, and people go do go on about it, but it's not panacea.
Main places to watch are anywhere there is a welded joint. The original cars were made from zinc sprayed sheet, and consequently when welded the zinc evaporates and leaves the bare metal exposed. Corrosion starts easily in these locations.
Look specifically for rust bubbles under the paintwork, under the headlights, around the petrol filler cap, and on the frame side of the door jamb. The bottom of the rear window is another usual place. If you can get under the car look at the rear edge of the floor pan.
Pay particular attention to the sills on the oil cooler side. The hot pipes attract clag between themselves and the bodywork. Rot is usual.
Look for splits in the underseal. It's PVC based and consequently where wear an tear gets at it it splits. Then you get pockets where the moisture can build up. Pay particular attention to the underside of the fuel tank.
If you're gonna get an SC look out for the gearbox. If the car has seen use it'll be vauge.
Oil return tubes, between the head and the crankcase on the engine always leak in the end, although they aren't too bad to replace.
You won't be able to see, unless you take the rocker covers off. If the car has high miles, you will more than likely be buying a car with some broken head studs. They always go around 100K miles. One or two and you won't notice, and it doesn't matter. Three or more, and it's engine out.
Main places to watch are anywhere there is a welded joint. The original cars were made from zinc sprayed sheet, and consequently when welded the zinc evaporates and leaves the bare metal exposed. Corrosion starts easily in these locations.
Look specifically for rust bubbles under the paintwork, under the headlights, around the petrol filler cap, and on the frame side of the door jamb. The bottom of the rear window is another usual place. If you can get under the car look at the rear edge of the floor pan.
Pay particular attention to the sills on the oil cooler side. The hot pipes attract clag between themselves and the bodywork. Rot is usual.
Look for splits in the underseal. It's PVC based and consequently where wear an tear gets at it it splits. Then you get pockets where the moisture can build up. Pay particular attention to the underside of the fuel tank.
If you're gonna get an SC look out for the gearbox. If the car has seen use it'll be vauge.
Oil return tubes, between the head and the crankcase on the engine always leak in the end, although they aren't too bad to replace.
You won't be able to see, unless you take the rocker covers off. If the car has high miles, you will more than likely be buying a car with some broken head studs. They always go around 100K miles. One or two and you won't notice, and it doesn't matter. Three or more, and it's engine out.
In '87 they replaced the 915 gearbox with the G50. The latter is considered preferable, but the 915 apparently does the job fine anyway and parts/clutch are cheaper. Check for when last clutch change was done - a good bargaining point. Similarly the usual, state of brakes, last change of shock absorbers, tyres, etc.
Wheels were either 15" telephones or 16" Fuchs - the latter are preferable to the connaisseurs.
They're reliable and solid beasts, so careless owners can easily not give them all the servicing that they require - a service history of some kind would be nice. Note that mileages have often been wound back on these cars - 20 year old cars that have supposedly only done 80 k miles!?!? Yeah sure!
Have fun!
Wheels were either 15" telephones or 16" Fuchs - the latter are preferable to the connaisseurs.
They're reliable and solid beasts, so careless owners can easily not give them all the servicing that they require - a service history of some kind would be nice. Note that mileages have often been wound back on these cars - 20 year old cars that have supposedly only done 80 k miles!?!? Yeah sure!
Have fun!
My first Porsche was an '83 SC. Bulletproof car and I do miss it sometimes! I'm not that mechanically minded so defer to the other posts but if you buy a good one it's just wear and tear items you need to look out for (shocks, brakes, upholstery, perishing rubber etc.). Have fun!
Gavin
Gavin
nel said:
In '87 they replaced the 915 gearbox with the G50. The latter is considered preferable, but the 915 apparently does the job fine anyway and parts/clutch are cheaper. Check for when last clutch change was done - a good bargaining point. Similarly the usual, state of brakes, last change of shock absorbers, tyres, etc.
Wheels were either 15" telephones or 16" Fuchs - the latter are preferable to the connaisseurs.
They're reliable and solid beasts, so careless owners can easily not give them all the servicing that they require - a service history of some kind would be nice. Note that mileages have often been wound back on these cars - 20 year old cars that have supposedly only done 80 k miles!?!? Yeah sure!
Have fun!
An '87 car be a 3.2 Carrera?, if its an SC it will have a 915 'box.
The teledial wheels were fitted to 1984 and onwards 3.2s. The 15 inch wheels which were an option on the SC were commonly named "Cookie Cutters" (they were ATS manufactured IIRC) , but most people have replaced these with the 16 inch Fuchs by now.
What's a "50th anniversary model"? 50th anniversary of what or who?....I've never heard of such a model and to my knowledge Porsche didn't build an anniversary edition of any SCs - not in rhd in any case and I'm pretty sure not in lhd either....
Why are you buying an SC from Austria? Hardly a "dry" country and I'm guessing they use salt on the roads out there. Even a mint lhd SC won't break the £10k barrier and will never be a "classic" in the way that a late 3.2 will be.
Dilbert - I understand your logic on the welding, but surely this must be an issue with any galvanised car?...I can't see manufacturers putting up with a manufacturing imperfection like this on an ongoing basis?...
What's a "50th anniversary model"? 50th anniversary of what or who?....I've never heard of such a model and to my knowledge Porsche didn't build an anniversary edition of any SCs - not in rhd in any case and I'm pretty sure not in lhd either....
Why are you buying an SC from Austria? Hardly a "dry" country and I'm guessing they use salt on the roads out there. Even a mint lhd SC won't break the £10k barrier and will never be a "classic" in the way that a late 3.2 will be.
Dilbert - I understand your logic on the welding, but surely this must be an issue with any galvanised car?...I can't see manufacturers putting up with a manufacturing imperfection like this on an ongoing basis?...
RubyStone,
Yes it is I think.
The real problem though is that the car is curvy. Don't get me wrong about this, I love curvy cars. When the sheet steel is rolled flat it is relatively stress free. When it gets folded and rolled to the shape of the car, it introduces allsorts of stresses, and because of the way these stresses affect the material, over time the stress concentrations will help cause corrosion.
Originally Porsches were renowned for rot, mainly because they were/are curvy. Obviously the galvanize process helped greatly, but there weren't many manufacturers producing galvanized cars in those days. Certainly not like today where if you buy a boggo Ford KA, galvanize comes as standard. The bottom line was that techniques (like welding and paint application) were not "tuned" in the way that they are today.
Yes it is I think.
The real problem though is that the car is curvy. Don't get me wrong about this, I love curvy cars. When the sheet steel is rolled flat it is relatively stress free. When it gets folded and rolled to the shape of the car, it introduces allsorts of stresses, and because of the way these stresses affect the material, over time the stress concentrations will help cause corrosion.
Originally Porsches were renowned for rot, mainly because they were/are curvy. Obviously the galvanize process helped greatly, but there weren't many manufacturers producing galvanized cars in those days. Certainly not like today where if you buy a boggo Ford KA, galvanize comes as standard. The bottom line was that techniques (like welding and paint application) were not "tuned" in the way that they are today.
Back from Austria ,great trip.Car was great .It is a Ferry porsche A special edition Only 250 odd were made ten of which were Targas.In answer to you question on whether Austria is wet or dry country well the car was only a summer car ,not a car for snow and ice I was told.I am having the chain tensors replaced there and front shocks they were the orginals still fitted.Thanks for your help everyone.When I get the Porsche back from there I will post photos.
Sounds like a nice car have you a photo? I have just bought a 911SC and it is being shipped to Dubai. Its a 1978 Targa in Guards red. Searching here in Dubai only produced horror stories as the cars are not looked after. Hope you have been enjoying it. I cannot wait to have the top down in the blazing sunshine. 
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