coolant Temperature Sensor - HELP!

coolant Temperature Sensor - HELP!

Author
Discussion

davelittlewood

Original Poster:

306 posts

133 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
Evening All,

Just tried to replace the engine temperature sensor (has some shunting problems so I thought I'd rule this out as a possible cause before I start hunting else where)

Bought a new Lucas part from a reputable TVR spares shop and tried to fit it this afternoon.

It took some force to break the old sensor free but then it came out OK. I checked the threads and no sign of aluminium threads on the sensor, so far so good.
It was stuck in with some glue/sealant.

The new one went in OK but I couldn't even get it finger tight with the socket. It just never got there.eek


First thought was 'Oh C**p, I've stripped the thread in the manifold'weeping so I carefully took it out and had a look.
Threads are all fine!!

I gripped the probe part of the new sensor in a vice (with some rubber to protect it) and the plastic cover part simply rotates on the brass sensor body!!

Anyone else had this happen??

I'll get a replacement next week.

Should I seal the new sensor back in place and if so what with?

Cheers,

Dave

ClassiChimi

12,424 posts

149 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
Maybe loctite but I'm no expert,,, someone will be along soon to confirm what's the best ploy!
Goodluck.

Richard 858

1,882 posts

135 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
Dave, I know this might sound obvious but you are replacing like for like aren't you ? There are 2 coolant temp senders, 1 for the gauge and one for the ECU which are different from each other.

davelittlewood

Original Poster:

306 posts

133 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
Yep!

Measured the threads on both.

The plastic isn't bonded to the brass part on the new sensor so I'm pretty sure it's knackered

s3c chris

288 posts

130 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
Hi.
I've had exactly the same problem with the coolant sensor. Bought two genuine Lucas parts and on both occasions the plastic "nut" part has ended up spinning with virtually no pressure.
If you look on ebay you will see that sensors are available that have a brass hexagon, I think they are "bearmach" parts. I have also seen these on a TVR parts website but can't remember which one, sorry.
These parts are MUCH better and you can tighten them correctly too. I felt that I had stripped the thread in the housing at first! I took one of the plastic ones apart and all that holds them together are two small slots in the brass, no wonder they come apart.
Hope this may help.
Regards Chris.

davelittlewood

Original Poster:

306 posts

133 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
Odd, it says Lucas on the part

davelittlewood

Original Poster:

306 posts

133 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
Sardonicus said:
davelittlewood said:
Odd, it says Lucas on the part
OK then your right im wrong wink
Wasn't arguing with you just saying that it's a bit odd for the part to say Lucas if it can't be.
If it isn't a Lucas part then surely it's illegal to market it as a Lucas part??

TV8

3,122 posts

175 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
I am very wary of genuine Lucas bits now. I had the same problems (fit and poor running) with the plastic one and bought one of the brass ones Simon recommended. Fits perfectly and car runs very well again.

Sardonicus

18,960 posts

221 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
davelittlewood said:
Wasn't arguing with you just saying that it's a bit odd for the part to say Lucas if it can't be.
If it isn't a Lucas part then surely it's illegal to market it as a Lucas part??
No problem Dave just trying to help wink

s3c chris

288 posts

130 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
I've just looked on ebay;
The brass bodied parts are made by FAE, the ebay listing is 301434586462.
Regards Chris.

jojackson4

3,026 posts

137 months

Sunday 28th June 2015
quotequote all
Don't buy the st plastic nut ones
Get the brass nut ones

davelittlewood

Original Poster:

306 posts

133 months

Monday 29th June 2015
quotequote all
Dealer is sending me a replacement unit.

Said that they have had a dodgy batch in the past but no recent problems.

I'll try the replacement unit and see what happens. I can get the brass version from a local auto electricians so I'll get one of them too

Dave

Colin-5yoqo

2 posts

106 months

Tuesday 30th June 2015
quotequote all
Have had similar problem with ECU temp sensor. One that came out was SAGEM 73355 8TT ( Google says its a 1998 LAND RANGE ROVER P38 SAGEM 73355 MANIFOLD TEMPATURE SENSOR). One that went in was Lucas SNB802, which is standard recommendation. Threads appear OK. However, that wouldn't tighten beyond figer tight and the plastic "nut" is not slipping. (tried it in the vice) so SAGEM sensor went back in. Still can't quite work out the thread issue...
However, I then spotted that the vacuum advance retard pipe had become dislodged. Refitting this cured all the rough running problems usually associated with dodgy ECU temp sensor.... Recommend you double check the vacuum pipe too.

Dungman

255 posts

171 months

Wednesday 1st July 2015
quotequote all
This may be a stupid question, but would you usually expect a fault code when these sensors are on the way out? I am aware that mine shunts a little when up to temperature but not when cold. No codes showing.

jojackson4

3,026 posts

137 months

Wednesday 1st July 2015
quotequote all
No
Get rover gauge and you can compare the readings

Dungman

255 posts

171 months

Wednesday 1st July 2015
quotequote all
jojackson4 said:
No
Get rover gauge and you can compare the readings
Thanks. I have rovergauge. Excuse my ignorance can you explain what you mean by comparing readings? Between old and new sensors?

jojackson4

3,026 posts

137 months

Wednesday 1st July 2015
quotequote all
You can compair with rover gauge and the dash gauge and or a laser temp gun
If the ecu is getting duff info from the sender you can see what's going on