Griff stalling
Discussion
Hi,
need some help - my Griff 500 when cruising at low rpm will suddently stall completely. It will only come to life again if I either increase the thottle or take away the thottle completely. It feels like the fuel supply stops so I was wondering if it could be related to the pressure regulator - vacuum ? At full throttle the car runs great why I don't think it is either fuel filter or pump.
Cheers,
Dan
need some help - my Griff 500 when cruising at low rpm will suddently stall completely. It will only come to life again if I either increase the thottle or take away the thottle completely. It feels like the fuel supply stops so I was wondering if it could be related to the pressure regulator - vacuum ? At full throttle the car runs great why I don't think it is either fuel filter or pump.
Cheers,
Dan
Any chance it could be an extreme form of shunting? If it was fuel related surely it'd get worse under load. Or could be summat to do with throttle pot or afm? Be worth hooking up a code reader or rover gauge.
But don't do what I did and read the code display upside down - I spent ages looking for fault code 20 on the Internet... When it was actually code 02 - ecu recently powered down
Hi,
Thanks for the feedback. I connected the car to the Rover Gauge software and it gave me fault codes 17 (Throttle potentiometer) and 19 (airflow meter). I had the throttle potentiometer checked at work and it seemed right (no noise - steady increase in resistance) - adjusted the mounting to get the right voltage output at idle but still getting those fault codes. Do you think I need to change the airflow meter - any way to check for sure if it is working ?
Cheers,
Dan
Thanks for the feedback. I connected the car to the Rover Gauge software and it gave me fault codes 17 (Throttle potentiometer) and 19 (airflow meter). I had the throttle potentiometer checked at work and it seemed right (no noise - steady increase in resistance) - adjusted the mounting to get the right voltage output at idle but still getting those fault codes. Do you think I need to change the airflow meter - any way to check for sure if it is working ?
Cheers,
Dan
The throttle pot can go intermittent with heat- and id suspect this more than the AFM to start with. The AFMs can make the car run really rich, but not die as such. You are getting the error codes as the output of the two sensors dont tally- ie- you cant have a high AFM output if the throttle is shut. You will get this situation if the TP goes open circuit momentarily when the car is under load however.
neutral 3 said:
What are the correct ignition leads for a 500 that has been modified ?
Hi mate...Not 100% sure about what you should use but here is some info on plug leads that may help..https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...
Also the coil needs to be kept away from heat sources..Especially exhaust headers...The Wedge has the coil bolted to the inner O/S wheel arch whereas the range rover had them on the plenum..If the latter then a heat jacket could be the answer...Not sure if our friend jonnyz makes them but give him a call...You never know
http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/parts-and-p...
Hope this helps...Cheers...Ziga
Thanks zigga, much appreciated. My one has a mixture of 5 "yellow hot wires silicone high performance ignition leads and 4 black " high temp double silicone leads, which came from Halfords I think. The yellow ones are now 5 years old.
Wondering if a set of new leads will make a difference ?
I got some " agg " shall we say, late last night from a Golf R ( 300 hp, turbo, they are very quick ) so I'm looking to get my one running its best.
Wondering if a set of new leads will make a difference ?
I got some " agg " shall we say, late last night from a Golf R ( 300 hp, turbo, they are very quick ) so I'm looking to get my one running its best.
Hope it helps mate...I always buy good quality leads..Not mega expensive for my old 350i but change them and the king lead every year...If you are running a modified engine NEVER scrimp on parts...Or expect them to last as long as they would with a normal engine..The heat build up inside the Wedge is scary..I had a Supercharged 280i project but the bonnet was the early style and the top vent was a blessing..I still had to spend £900 on a specially cored alloy rad and a turbo 18" Kenlowe fan...
Not sure what its like under the Griffs..I think later bonnet designs took this into consideration..Or maybe not...It is a TVR...Although my friends Tamora bonnet looks effective as you can see the manifolds ....
....300 bhp turbo golf......Torque over bhp any day!..Using it through the gears is the key...Failing that stick a 100lbs NOS bottle on it and rig it up to the throttle..Instant madness...And death if you are not careful ....
Not sure what its like under the Griffs..I think later bonnet designs took this into consideration..Or maybe not...It is a TVR...Although my friends Tamora bonnet looks effective as you can see the manifolds ....
....300 bhp turbo golf......Torque over bhp any day!..Using it through the gears is the key...Failing that stick a 100lbs NOS bottle on it and rig it up to the throttle..Instant madness...And death if you are not careful ....
Thanks for all the input.
The heat inside the bonnet of the Griff is mad.
Connected the car to rover Gauge software again and noticed AFM readings of 6% during iddle. According to the great documention from Blitzracing it should be around 35% at iddle. The Throttle Potentiometer shows 5%. I keep getting the fault codes 17 (throttle potentiometer) and 19 (AFM). Any way of checking if the AFM needs replacing ? Also does the ECU reset when you undo the battery ?
The heat inside the bonnet of the Griff is mad.
Connected the car to rover Gauge software again and noticed AFM readings of 6% during iddle. According to the great documention from Blitzracing it should be around 35% at iddle. The Throttle Potentiometer shows 5%. I keep getting the fault codes 17 (throttle potentiometer) and 19 (AFM). Any way of checking if the AFM needs replacing ? Also does the ECU reset when you undo the battery ?
Ecu disconnect will reset al fault codes and resets Lambda trimming.
AFM Testing :
Testing is performed in the following manner. Peel back the rubber boot on the airflow meter connector and leave it plugged in to the airflow meter. Set up the digital multimeter to read voltage. Insert the negative probe into the Red/Black wire (sensor ground), and the positive into the Blue/Green wire (Airflow signal).
Turn on the ignition, but do not start the engine. The meter should immediately indicate a reading of approximately 0.3-0.34 Volts. Most defective airflow meters will overshoot to 0.5 Volts or higher, and take at least 2 seconds to come down to the correct voltage.
Don't you have anyone nearby to swap AFM ?
Regards Ronald.
AFM Testing :
Testing is performed in the following manner. Peel back the rubber boot on the airflow meter connector and leave it plugged in to the airflow meter. Set up the digital multimeter to read voltage. Insert the negative probe into the Red/Black wire (sensor ground), and the positive into the Blue/Green wire (Airflow signal).
Turn on the ignition, but do not start the engine. The meter should immediately indicate a reading of approximately 0.3-0.34 Volts. Most defective airflow meters will overshoot to 0.5 Volts or higher, and take at least 2 seconds to come down to the correct voltage.
Don't you have anyone nearby to swap AFM ?
Regards Ronald.
I know the ECU does reset when you disconnect the battery - unplugging the big multiplug (ignition OFF) will also reset it.
On mine, Joolz swapped my suspected duff afm for a known good one he keeps as a spare - on that basis maybe that's the only way to 100% confirm it's faulty.
If it is at fault, replace with a used genuine afm (ebay) rather than a brand spanking chinese version as the copy parts just aren't heat resistant and may fail under TVR temperatures.
I'm not very knowledgeable though - I'd go with Blitz's advice and swap/check the t pot first
On mine, Joolz swapped my suspected duff afm for a known good one he keeps as a spare - on that basis maybe that's the only way to 100% confirm it's faulty.
If it is at fault, replace with a used genuine afm (ebay) rather than a brand spanking chinese version as the copy parts just aren't heat resistant and may fail under TVR temperatures.
I'm not very knowledgeable though - I'd go with Blitz's advice and swap/check the t pot first
Re afm - just checked back thru my emails between me and Joolz - he said you can also test the afm by unplugging it then running the engine - ecu then controls the fuelling purely on t pot position and engine speed, without afm input. My car ran great with it unplugged. Plugging it back in again and it underfuelled and ran lumpy again. HTH
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