Contemplating an X-type.
Discussion
So, with the arrival of Mini Crossflow Kid, thoughts are turning to a family barge.
Keen to keep the British flag flying alongside a LR Defender, Caterham and a Triumph bike, a Jaguar appeals over all the Euro-box people carriers and Japanese midi-SUVs.
Thinking of an X-type estate having had one as a long term works loan car some years ago when it never, ever failed to impress. Staggeringly uninspired I know, but it seems to fit the bill extremely well and offers a lot of car for the money.
Best journey in the loaner was Aberdeen to High Wycombe, comfortable and leggy enough to be done in pretty much one hit bar fuel stops (and even then I think it was just the one refuel).
Question is, which one to go for? I hear good thing about the running costs of the 2.2 diesel, and the AWD variant also seems to score highly.
Budget isn't massive, possibly only two or three grand but even that would appear to get an admittedly older but perfectly serviceable car in good only-used-for-golf condition.
Or, like their Warwickshire-based 4x4 brethren, are older ones just a one way ticket to financial ruin?
Over to you guys.
Thanks in advance.
Keen to keep the British flag flying alongside a LR Defender, Caterham and a Triumph bike, a Jaguar appeals over all the Euro-box people carriers and Japanese midi-SUVs.
Thinking of an X-type estate having had one as a long term works loan car some years ago when it never, ever failed to impress. Staggeringly uninspired I know, but it seems to fit the bill extremely well and offers a lot of car for the money.
Best journey in the loaner was Aberdeen to High Wycombe, comfortable and leggy enough to be done in pretty much one hit bar fuel stops (and even then I think it was just the one refuel).
Question is, which one to go for? I hear good thing about the running costs of the 2.2 diesel, and the AWD variant also seems to score highly.
Budget isn't massive, possibly only two or three grand but even that would appear to get an admittedly older but perfectly serviceable car in good only-used-for-golf condition.
Or, like their Warwickshire-based 4x4 brethren, are older ones just a one way ticket to financial ruin?
Over to you guys.
Thanks in advance.
All the diesels are front wheel drive only so no 4x4 option there. Its only the 2.5 and 3.0 that were AWD.
I have had my 2.5 sport saloon now for 3 1/2 years and has been great. One of the best cars I have ever owned in fact.
The later ones were top tax bracket so be carefull on that front.
Look out for rusty sils as this is a bit of a problem.
I have had my 2.5 sport saloon now for 3 1/2 years and has been great. One of the best cars I have ever owned in fact.
The later ones were top tax bracket so be carefull on that front.
Look out for rusty sils as this is a bit of a problem.
After hanging around the jagforum long enough a few patterns emerge on what the problem areas are, but to be fair you only tend to hear about the problems not the good stuff on these things.
The diesels seem to suffer from fuel pump and injector problems, well the 2.0 ones do. Once the pump breaks up it takes the injectors out too. Not cheap. The 2.0 diesel also can suffer from noisy auxiliary belts and there is a upgraded tensioner for this. You also get the standard DMF issues that seem to plague a lot of diesels as well.
I wouldn’t bother with an auto as these seem to be a bit of a weak point, especially as the manual gearbox seems almost bulletproof. Don’t here of many clutch or DMf issues on the petrols (yes, they do use a DMF surprisingly)
The only issues I can think of on the bigger petrols are:
Rust, this should be fairly obvious to the trained eye.
The transfer boxes which let go when they run dry of oil. There “sealed for life” units but you can drain and refill them in a number of ways. If its in good order when you buy it, keep it topped up and it should be fine.
Suspension bushes on the back can lead to it wearing out the inside edge of the tyres. Its quite complicated multi-link job at the back so worth checking all those bits.
Stick to a manual box as stated above.
The common way of thinking is go with a 3.0 as none of them are great on fuel, even the 2.1 so if you’re going to pay at the pumps you might as well have the power to go with it. However, I have spotted in threads a tendency for the 3 litres to destroy their bottom ends due to oil starvation without warning. There is also some doubt if the owners have let them run low on oil and they really don’t go much on that. I haven’t read over there any of the 2.5’s letting go in this fashion.
I think that about covers the major stuff, but I’m sure others will add. Servicing parts are cheap, as its all ford based and there are plenty of second hand parts around to keep you going as well.
If you do your own spannering, and guessing as you own a land rover you probably do, and x-type isn’t a bad option at all in my eyes to get about in.
The diesels seem to suffer from fuel pump and injector problems, well the 2.0 ones do. Once the pump breaks up it takes the injectors out too. Not cheap. The 2.0 diesel also can suffer from noisy auxiliary belts and there is a upgraded tensioner for this. You also get the standard DMF issues that seem to plague a lot of diesels as well.
I wouldn’t bother with an auto as these seem to be a bit of a weak point, especially as the manual gearbox seems almost bulletproof. Don’t here of many clutch or DMf issues on the petrols (yes, they do use a DMF surprisingly)
The only issues I can think of on the bigger petrols are:
Rust, this should be fairly obvious to the trained eye.
The transfer boxes which let go when they run dry of oil. There “sealed for life” units but you can drain and refill them in a number of ways. If its in good order when you buy it, keep it topped up and it should be fine.
Suspension bushes on the back can lead to it wearing out the inside edge of the tyres. Its quite complicated multi-link job at the back so worth checking all those bits.
Stick to a manual box as stated above.
The common way of thinking is go with a 3.0 as none of them are great on fuel, even the 2.1 so if you’re going to pay at the pumps you might as well have the power to go with it. However, I have spotted in threads a tendency for the 3 litres to destroy their bottom ends due to oil starvation without warning. There is also some doubt if the owners have let them run low on oil and they really don’t go much on that. I haven’t read over there any of the 2.5’s letting go in this fashion.
I think that about covers the major stuff, but I’m sure others will add. Servicing parts are cheap, as its all ford based and there are plenty of second hand parts around to keep you going as well.
If you do your own spannering, and guessing as you own a land rover you probably do, and x-type isn’t a bad option at all in my eyes to get about in.
Edited by spudgun GB on Monday 20th July 16:29
I have a tendency to buy cheap cars and abuse them until getting them through MOT's is not financially viable.
The last one I bought was a 2.5 AWD X-type for £2k. I bought the car three years ago and in those three years have crashed it into a bridge in the snow (never got round to repairing it) driven it through flood water it had to be pushed out of (£300 repair) and crashed it through a barb wire fence while 'rallying' in a mates field, it then dropped about 3 foot onto the road and hit a stone wall the other side (no mechanical damage, just further damage to the front bumper area after the earlier bridge incident)
Since the water incident (over two years ago) my engine management light has been permanently on and it runs a bit rich so it has to be nice and warm to get through MOT's.
In the time I have owned it I have never had it properly serviced but it has had bits and bobs at MOT time.
It never misses a beat!
Hopefully it will last a couple more years
The last one I bought was a 2.5 AWD X-type for £2k. I bought the car three years ago and in those three years have crashed it into a bridge in the snow (never got round to repairing it) driven it through flood water it had to be pushed out of (£300 repair) and crashed it through a barb wire fence while 'rallying' in a mates field, it then dropped about 3 foot onto the road and hit a stone wall the other side (no mechanical damage, just further damage to the front bumper area after the earlier bridge incident)
Since the water incident (over two years ago) my engine management light has been permanently on and it runs a bit rich so it has to be nice and warm to get through MOT's.
In the time I have owned it I have never had it properly serviced but it has had bits and bobs at MOT time.
It never misses a beat!
Hopefully it will last a couple more years
I've had a 2.5 and now have a 3.0.
The engines are identical except for the cylinder bore size and both sizes are just as unforgiving of running out of oil as the other. There are reported failures of both sizes as well as in Fords which share the bottom end (going back to the Mk1 Mondeo and Cougar which were only 2.5s). It's really not that common overall and it's fairly preventable by pulling the dipstick once in a while.
Transfer boxes aren't great. I'm just about to wander out to the garage to continue replacing my 2nd. (It was brand new last year and has done a few thousand miles. I think I just got unlucky this time and got a faulty bearing. I have a bearing and seal kit and will rebuild this one myself - it literally can't be any worse).
Overall though they're good cars and what tends to go wrong is manageable.
Rear suspension parts are semi-consumable but at least they cost peanuts.
Rusty sills is common but it's a flat bit of steel that rusts and it's behind plastic sill covers. Most cars this age will be rusty. X-Type sills are very cheap and easy to repair because it's not complicated fabrication and it doesn't need to be pretty or involve respraying because it's hidden from normal view (although easily accessible to inspect from underneath).
The engines are identical except for the cylinder bore size and both sizes are just as unforgiving of running out of oil as the other. There are reported failures of both sizes as well as in Fords which share the bottom end (going back to the Mk1 Mondeo and Cougar which were only 2.5s). It's really not that common overall and it's fairly preventable by pulling the dipstick once in a while.
Transfer boxes aren't great. I'm just about to wander out to the garage to continue replacing my 2nd. (It was brand new last year and has done a few thousand miles. I think I just got unlucky this time and got a faulty bearing. I have a bearing and seal kit and will rebuild this one myself - it literally can't be any worse).
Overall though they're good cars and what tends to go wrong is manageable.
Rear suspension parts are semi-consumable but at least they cost peanuts.
Rusty sills is common but it's a flat bit of steel that rusts and it's behind plastic sill covers. Most cars this age will be rusty. X-Type sills are very cheap and easy to repair because it's not complicated fabrication and it doesn't need to be pretty or involve respraying because it's hidden from normal view (although easily accessible to inspect from underneath).
Unless you really need the diesel economy, I would go for the petrol. I have a Mondeo with the 2.2 diesel as used in the X type. These can be troublesome and expensive to fix when they do go wrong. EGR, turbo, injectors are common and expensive issues, so much so, my wife went for a petrol Freelander over the diesel with the same 2.2 Diesel engine. The 3 litre X type does feel quick and will last if looked after with regular oil changes, I would do these more frequent than the suggested intervals. A friend of mine has one with 186k on the clock and still going strong, as mentioned earlier, the manual is the one to yo for, the jatco auto can be very problematic.
jamieduff1981 said:
I've had a 2.5 and now have a 3.0.
The engines are identical except for the cylinder bore size and both sizes are just as unforgiving of running out of oil as the other. There are reported failures of both sizes as well as in Fords which share the bottom end (going back to the Mk1 Mondeo and Cougar which were only 2.5s). It's really not that common overall and it's fairly preventable by pulling the dipstick once in a while.
Transfer boxes aren't great. I'm just about to wander out to the garage to continue replacing my 2nd. (It was brand new last year and has done a few thousand miles. I think I just got unlucky this time and got a faulty bearing. I have a bearing and seal kit and will rebuild this one myself - it literally can't be any worse).
Overall though they're good cars and what tends to go wrong is manageable.
Rear suspension parts are semi-consumable but at least they cost peanuts.
Rusty sills is common but it's a flat bit of steel that rusts and it's behind plastic sill covers. Most cars this age will be rusty. X-Type sills are very cheap and easy to repair because it's not complicated fabrication and it doesn't need to be pretty or involve respraying because it's hidden from normal view (although easily accessible to inspect from underneath).
I'm surprised you bother with it,Jamie. If I had the cars that you had I would just weight it in and bother. You must be quite fond of it to go through a transfer box swap again. I think it's that and the clutch would be the only job I would leave to the professionals. The engines are identical except for the cylinder bore size and both sizes are just as unforgiving of running out of oil as the other. There are reported failures of both sizes as well as in Fords which share the bottom end (going back to the Mk1 Mondeo and Cougar which were only 2.5s). It's really not that common overall and it's fairly preventable by pulling the dipstick once in a while.
Transfer boxes aren't great. I'm just about to wander out to the garage to continue replacing my 2nd. (It was brand new last year and has done a few thousand miles. I think I just got unlucky this time and got a faulty bearing. I have a bearing and seal kit and will rebuild this one myself - it literally can't be any worse).
Overall though they're good cars and what tends to go wrong is manageable.
Rear suspension parts are semi-consumable but at least they cost peanuts.
Rusty sills is common but it's a flat bit of steel that rusts and it's behind plastic sill covers. Most cars this age will be rusty. X-Type sills are very cheap and easy to repair because it's not complicated fabrication and it doesn't need to be pretty or involve respraying because it's hidden from normal view (although easily accessible to inspect from underneath).
I've had a 2.5 petrol and a 2.2d. Both were great cars that gave very little trouble. The diesel felt much quicker in normal day to day driving and was far cheaper to run if a bit less refined. Get a good spec. The sports and classics can be very basic. My sport premium had every gadget and they all worked well. Buyer beware tho. Your looking at cars around 10 years old now so many (most) will be neglected and abused. Xtype gets a lot of critics mostly by people who've never owned a good one. I say it's one of the best cars I've ever had. Only sold because I fancied an xf.
spudgun GB said:
jamieduff1981 said:
I've had a 2.5 and now have a 3.0.
The engines are identical except for the cylinder bore size and both sizes are just as unforgiving of running out of oil as the other. There are reported failures of both sizes as well as in Fords which share the bottom end (going back to the Mk1 Mondeo and Cougar which were only 2.5s). It's really not that common overall and it's fairly preventable by pulling the dipstick once in a while.
Transfer boxes aren't great. I'm just about to wander out to the garage to continue replacing my 2nd. (It was brand new last year and has done a few thousand miles. I think I just got unlucky this time and got a faulty bearing. I have a bearing and seal kit and will rebuild this one myself - it literally can't be any worse).
Overall though they're good cars and what tends to go wrong is manageable.
Rear suspension parts are semi-consumable but at least they cost peanuts.
Rusty sills is common but it's a flat bit of steel that rusts and it's behind plastic sill covers. Most cars this age will be rusty. X-Type sills are very cheap and easy to repair because it's not complicated fabrication and it doesn't need to be pretty or involve respraying because it's hidden from normal view (although easily accessible to inspect from underneath).
I'm surprised you bother with it,Jamie. If I had the cars that you had I would just weight it in and bother. You must be quite fond of it to go through a transfer box swap again. I think it's that and the clutch would be the only job I would leave to the professionals. The engines are identical except for the cylinder bore size and both sizes are just as unforgiving of running out of oil as the other. There are reported failures of both sizes as well as in Fords which share the bottom end (going back to the Mk1 Mondeo and Cougar which were only 2.5s). It's really not that common overall and it's fairly preventable by pulling the dipstick once in a while.
Transfer boxes aren't great. I'm just about to wander out to the garage to continue replacing my 2nd. (It was brand new last year and has done a few thousand miles. I think I just got unlucky this time and got a faulty bearing. I have a bearing and seal kit and will rebuild this one myself - it literally can't be any worse).
Overall though they're good cars and what tends to go wrong is manageable.
Rear suspension parts are semi-consumable but at least they cost peanuts.
Rusty sills is common but it's a flat bit of steel that rusts and it's behind plastic sill covers. Most cars this age will be rusty. X-Type sills are very cheap and easy to repair because it's not complicated fabrication and it doesn't need to be pretty or involve respraying because it's hidden from normal view (although easily accessible to inspect from underneath).
Over the years I've tackled things as soon as I've noticed a degredation. Hence it's been fully rebushed at the rear (mostly 2 bolts a piece) and had new dampers all round - both rears because of one bush but the improvement in ride was so good I got new fronts too. The 2nd transfer box thing is unlucky - my new box has a bad bearing.
I've considered scrapping but you're right, I/we am/are quite fond of it and also I don't like being defeated. Transfer box side it drives as well as it did when new thanks to all the newness.
It's maybe not good use of money but it costs less overall than the XFR-S does in depreciation alone. I work in an office and sports don't interest me a whole lot so hitting cars with hammers is both something physical and a bit theraputic.
I got the transfer box out last night. I'll maybe dismantle it tonight...
It's not hard to do, just time consuming. On the basis that I have use of other cars it's no big deal really. If I needed it on the road again ASAP then yes it would be a garage job...
With a Jaguar badge, the V6 manual AWD version is the only one to have. I've seen quite a few go through auctions for 500 quid or less as no bugger wants them = good news for anyone with big enough balls to run one. I sat in one in my local scrapyard to escape a downpour and it seemed a nice place to be.
2.0 diesel estate? Buy a Mondeo, preferably one with Ford badges.
2.0 diesel estate? Buy a Mondeo, preferably one with Ford badges.
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