Discussion
topcat1 said:
I'm planning on getting the geo done shortly, then will look at the 3mm spacers. What should the tyre pressures be on 18" spiders? The owners manual just states 22psi for 16" wheels!
I run 24psi all round. Consensus seems to be to experiment in the range 22-26.Edited by Speed 3 on Tuesday 21st July 09:01
phazed said:
Your problems sound awful, should have bought a chim 
Seriously, my handling was that poor when I swapped to a new set of dampers by a well known manufacturer. Country lanes were downright dangerous with the car bumping, skipping and being thrown off line by the slightest irregularity in the road.
I changed back to my Gaz Monos and the problem was solved.
Sounds like your damping is way too hard or your units are shot/useless/ set up very badly.
The car has Gaz adjustables on it, not sure which as were fitted when I bought it, and are set to the softer side of average!Seriously, my handling was that poor when I swapped to a new set of dampers by a well known manufacturer. Country lanes were downright dangerous with the car bumping, skipping and being thrown off line by the slightest irregularity in the road.
I changed back to my Gaz Monos and the problem was solved.
Sounds like your damping is way too hard or your units are shot/useless/ set up very badly.
I think my tyre pressures may be closer to 30, although this is a hazy guess, I'll check tonight as heading back to the garage later. I guess this could make a fair difference on a light car as you say.
davidsc said:
Mine was pretty scary when I first got it.
Since then I've done the following...
Re-gassed Nitrons
Changed all suspension bushes
Raised rack 10mm
3mm wheel spacers
Tyre dropped to 22psi
Geo set up
Now it drives like a 3 series :-)
Is yours pre March 2001? They do but you need new uprights and the wider steering rack as well.Since then I've done the following...
Re-gassed Nitrons
Changed all suspension bushes
Raised rack 10mm
3mm wheel spacers
Tyre dropped to 22psi
Geo set up
Now it drives like a 3 series :-)
- edit* do the later Sag/Tuscan upper wishbone fit an early chassis and would this make a noticeable difference to the way the earlier car drives? I was advised to stick with the standard upper wishbons when I replaced the bushes - if it hadn't been for this then I would have bought the later, slightly longer top wishbones.
Well, just had a quick look under mine and the rack has definitely not been raised, tie arms are at a very jaunty upward angle, also no wheel spacers fitted, so plenty to go at.
Might look into making some Sagaris style offset steering arms rather than packing up the rack, which at a glance i doubt even 10mm spacers would level up.
Laughable really that TVR thought the rack set up was good enough.
Might look into making some Sagaris style offset steering arms rather than packing up the rack, which at a glance i doubt even 10mm spacers would level up.
Laughable really that TVR thought the rack set up was good enough.
The early cars I.e before the Tuscan S was introduced (in I think Q4 2001) have poor suspension geometry and hence dodgy handling. Those geo mods were then applied to all later cars. The Sag uses the same components, just with different chassis pickup points, a wider steering rack to suit, specific spring/damper/roll bar rates and offset steering arms to suit.
You can sort the early cars by installing the later upper wishbones and hub carriers, and raising the rack up 3-5mm. Replacing the factory shocks with better aftermarket ones makes a big difference too. If you have 18" spiders, fit the 3mm spacers, and 235/45R18 tyres at 24psi which sorts the wonky scrub radius out and braking stability. Then get it properly corner weighted with a full geo setup by someone familiar with TVR's and don't run the ride height too low!
For higher speed stability the splitter makes a big difference.
I can drive my Tuscan S down very bumpy private roads well over the NSL with one hand on the wheel and not worry about being spat off into the bushes. Even my 71 year old dad also enjoys driving it down the same roads at similar speeds and he's used to merc barges!
You can sort the early cars by installing the later upper wishbones and hub carriers, and raising the rack up 3-5mm. Replacing the factory shocks with better aftermarket ones makes a big difference too. If you have 18" spiders, fit the 3mm spacers, and 235/45R18 tyres at 24psi which sorts the wonky scrub radius out and braking stability. Then get it properly corner weighted with a full geo setup by someone familiar with TVR's and don't run the ride height too low!
For higher speed stability the splitter makes a big difference.
I can drive my Tuscan S down very bumpy private roads well over the NSL with one hand on the wheel and not worry about being spat off into the bushes. Even my 71 year old dad also enjoys driving it down the same roads at similar speeds and he's used to merc barges!
Edited by dvs_dave on Monday 27th July 21:21
I recently bought an early 2001 Tuscan with 18" spiders and was dissapointed with the straight line handling too.
3mm spacers helped, but after a bit of experimenting and then changing the front tyres (was still on the originals!) to a slightly smaller width (225 rather than 235) that made a bigger difference. I'm currently running 26psi all round.
It will never be in the same league as the Sagaris, but does handle far more sweetly now.
3mm spacers helped, but after a bit of experimenting and then changing the front tyres (was still on the originals!) to a slightly smaller width (225 rather than 235) that made a bigger difference. I'm currently running 26psi all round.
It will never be in the same league as the Sagaris, but does handle far more sweetly now.
Guys...I.looked at the mounting on my steering rack last night and looks like the hydraulic pipes that come off the top of the steering shaft input boss thing are already only around 3mm away from touching the chassis. Do they need modifying if the rack is raised...or does it imply the rack is already raised?
It's the 90 braided slim pipes
It's the 90 braided slim pipes
PetrolHeadPete said:
Guys...I.looked at the mounting on my steering rack last night and looks like the hydraulic pipes that come off the top of the steering shaft input boss thing are already only around 3mm away from touching the chassis. Do they need modifying if the rack is raised...or does it imply the rack is already raised?
It's the 90 braided slim pipes
Mine was ok there but I had to lift the oil/water heat exchanger a bit. It's the 90 braided slim pipes
I've just fitted 3mm spacers to the front wheels and it's got to be the best £30 I've spent in terms of improving the car. I drove a number of cars before I bought the one I have and this was the best in terms of stability although it was still very twitchy on uneven roads. The geometry was checked and found to be correct. Fitting new tyres - Contisport 5's made a significant improvement over the old Toyo's. Fitting the spacers has made an even bigger difference and the car will now track straight 'hands off' on a rough road which it certainly wouldn't before. It has the stock dampers/springs and is a 2003 Mk1.
I've just fitted 3mm spacers to the front wheels and it's got to be the best £30 I've spent in terms of improving the car. I drove a number of cars before I bought the one I have and this was the best in terms of stability although it was still very twitchy on uneven roads. The geometry was checked and found to be correct. Fitting new tyres - Contisport 5's made a significant improvement over the old Toyo's. Fitting the spacers has made an even bigger difference and the car will now track straight 'hands off' on a rough road which it certainly wouldn't before. It has the stock dampers/springs and is a 2003 Mk1.
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