V70 2.4 D5 SE Geartronic...
Discussion
Hi All,
Long time lurker here, just never signed up until today!
I own a few cars, mostly higher end but want something for a 'runaround' at home! I live in Ayrshire, quite rural but I travel all over the UK with work - so I'm looking for a car that I can kinda drive to the train station and leave, airport, do runs to the tip, weeks shopping or those trips to B&Q.
The V70 2.4 D5 SE has really caught my eye and something I think would fit the bill perfectly.
I have set aside £2,500 for one, found one with 227,000 miles on the clock - 1 owner from new, serviced on the dot every time at a Volvo garage and cambelts done as and when required. Looking at the history - it's always had premium tyres (One thing that makes me think they care).
What should I look for on these? Never owned a Volvo before!
Thanks
Long time lurker here, just never signed up until today!
I own a few cars, mostly higher end but want something for a 'runaround' at home! I live in Ayrshire, quite rural but I travel all over the UK with work - so I'm looking for a car that I can kinda drive to the train station and leave, airport, do runs to the tip, weeks shopping or those trips to B&Q.
The V70 2.4 D5 SE has really caught my eye and something I think would fit the bill perfectly.
I have set aside £2,500 for one, found one with 227,000 miles on the clock - 1 owner from new, serviced on the dot every time at a Volvo garage and cambelts done as and when required. Looking at the history - it's always had premium tyres (One thing that makes me think they care).
What should I look for on these? Never owned a Volvo before!
Thanks
It is usually the gearbox failing which kills high mileage autos. Check it carefully and make sure you get it fully warmed up (the gearbox, not just the engine) which takes 15-20 miles and then check for any slippage on upchanges, erratic behaviour or jolts on downchanges when coming to a standstill.
If it is a 2005 model year or older it will have a 5-speed box, 2006 on a 6-speed. On the 6-speed in particular check it on hard acceleration from about 25-30mph as if they go it is frequently on 4th gear.
If it is a 2005 model year or older it will have a 5-speed box, 2006 on a 6-speed. On the 6-speed in particular check it on hard acceleration from about 25-30mph as if they go it is frequently on 4th gear.
confused_buyer said:
It is usually the gearbox failing which kills high mileage autos. Check it carefully and make sure you get it fully warmed up (the gearbox, not just the engine) which takes 15-20 miles and then check for any slippage on upchanges, erratic behaviour or jolts on downchanges when coming to a standstill.
If it is a 2005 model year or older it will have a 5-speed box, 2006 on a 6-speed. On the 6-speed in particular check it on hard acceleration from about 25-30mph as if they go it is frequently on 4th gear.
Thanks for that, much appreciated!If it is a 2005 model year or older it will have a 5-speed box, 2006 on a 6-speed. On the 6-speed in particular check it on hard acceleration from about 25-30mph as if they go it is frequently on 4th gear.
Hoping to go view it either today or Monday, so I'll ensure I drive it properly for 30 minutes!
What kinda of money would you expect to pay for that?
It's always worth considering a fluid change on these boxes. My 2003 S80 2.0T Auto was beginning to 'flare' (i.e. slip into neutral) when upshifting from 2 to 3 and occasionally from 3 to 4 when really hot.
I did two 'sump dumps' (which drains out around 3 of the 7 litres in the box) around 300 miles apart replacing the black horrible stuff (which happily did not smell burnt) with fresh cherry red Mobil JWS 3309 ATF.
By my calculations that will have removed around 65% of the old fluid, two more dumps in a thousand miles or so will see that figure down to around 15%. I chose this approach rather than the 'gibbons method' (see google) as the box can reset itself gradually.
I cannot stress enough how much better the box feels with the newer fluid - not more flaring, no more banging into reverse, no more erratic shifting. Cost around £90 for 7 litres of fluid and the piping and funnel to do the job so far.
Great cars aren't they! Make sure you check whether the PCV system is in good health by checking the dipstick for escaping gases with the engine running (it should suck down the dipstick, not blow out of it). If it does your PCV system needs cleaning / replacing. Pig of a job but not too expensive or beyond the scope of the average spanner wielder. Otherwise the crankshaft seals can pop (like mine has) - if the gearbox end goes it's a box off job to repair (not that the cam belt and pulley off job I've got to complete is exactly simple!).
I did two 'sump dumps' (which drains out around 3 of the 7 litres in the box) around 300 miles apart replacing the black horrible stuff (which happily did not smell burnt) with fresh cherry red Mobil JWS 3309 ATF.
By my calculations that will have removed around 65% of the old fluid, two more dumps in a thousand miles or so will see that figure down to around 15%. I chose this approach rather than the 'gibbons method' (see google) as the box can reset itself gradually.
I cannot stress enough how much better the box feels with the newer fluid - not more flaring, no more banging into reverse, no more erratic shifting. Cost around £90 for 7 litres of fluid and the piping and funnel to do the job so far.
Great cars aren't they! Make sure you check whether the PCV system is in good health by checking the dipstick for escaping gases with the engine running (it should suck down the dipstick, not blow out of it). If it does your PCV system needs cleaning / replacing. Pig of a job but not too expensive or beyond the scope of the average spanner wielder. Otherwise the crankshaft seals can pop (like mine has) - if the gearbox end goes it's a box off job to repair (not that the cam belt and pulley off job I've got to complete is exactly simple!).
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