chain has been hitting the cam cover

chain has been hitting the cam cover

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maxclark91

Original Poster:

60 posts

108 months

Saturday 25th July 2015
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Took the tuscan out for an early morning drive after about 30 minutes had a mechanical/metal tapping sound from 4th but mainly 5th gear at low rpm 2000-3000 under load coming from the engine. Returned home removed the cam cover to find the chain has been hitting the cam. What would be this fix for this? A complete new chains down to the crank or half time bearing only? With the cam cover off I am able to move the chain up and down around 8mm with hand pressure.

Any advise, help or similar problems and fixes would be most appreciated.

I am a car mechanic for citroen and luckily they will let me use the ramps at work to sort the problem, just any advise is always welcome.

NCE 61

2,387 posts

281 months

Saturday 25th July 2015
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There is an adjuster for the upper chain:-




nrick

1,866 posts

163 months

Saturday 25th July 2015
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Most of the early engines the chains hit the cover, IMHO . There is a head rebuild guide on here or here

http://www.rndengineering.co.uk/tvr_all/downloads/...

The viton gasket moves the cam cover further away.

maxclark91

Original Poster:

60 posts

108 months

Sunday 26th July 2015
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Brilliant cheers guys! Really helps!

KSV

454 posts

146 months

Sunday 26th July 2015
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If you use the gasket make sure you use the right adhesive that matt recommends in this thread.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

As i'm having a mare with it keep creeping out!!

Colin

nrick

1,866 posts

163 months

Sunday 26th July 2015
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IMHO the answer is not to overtighten, I have the viton seal with no glue (good idea to use glue) and it hasn't crept, it doesn't need much load to seal unlike a normal gasket.

KSV

454 posts

146 months

Sunday 26th July 2015
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Thanks Neill
Going to use the spray adhesive, what torque would you suggest.

Colin

nrick

1,866 posts

163 months

Sunday 26th July 2015
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Colin , as little as possible.

I literally just nipped it up, if you torque it too much it will just bulge and won't seal. Each one is different depending on how flat the cam cover/Head is. Just tighten it until it seals. If it leaks tighten it a little. I'll try to work out a torque.

nrick

1,866 posts

163 months

Sunday 26th July 2015
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How flat is the cam cover?

m4tti

5,427 posts

155 months

Sunday 26th July 2015
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In answer to the original question, there should be very little deflection in the upper chain. The problem you have if this is an original engine, is if you over tighten the chain then your risking premature half time bearing failure. As Neill suggest you really want to avoid over tightening the chain , to avoid this situation.

Other options as mentioned are the viton gasket, or you could take a Dremel pr mill the interior of the cover and take material away to the depth of the witness marks.

The ultimate solution is to upgrade the timing chain set with the simplex chains and pressure fed half time bearing, but to do this your going to need to drop the engine. Having recently stripped one, doing this in situ would be a real pig... It takes between a day and half a day to remove the engine.

Edited by m4tti on Sunday 26th July 17:07


Edit.. just realised you haven't got an original engine, you've got magpie21's old car... with a 4.3. Spoke to you last week. It should have an improved power halftime bearing. If you've got as much deflection as you suggest id try removing some of it, but only with the engine hot. Spoke to you last week at Millbrook biggrin

Edited by m4tti on Sunday 26th July 17:21

maxclark91

Original Poster:

60 posts

108 months

Sunday 26th July 2015
quotequote all
Ahhh yes, well I was thinking of changing to the simplex chain now, I already changed to the viton gasket 3 months ago. And I did remove the cam cover whilst hot, that's when I had that much play, do you have pictures of the chain when re built with simplex?

Edited by maxclark91 on Sunday 26th July 19:41

nrick

1,866 posts

163 months

Sunday 26th July 2015
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Did the cam cover have any marks on from a previous life, I took mine off when I did the shims on the MK1 and it was scared even though there was no way the chain could hit it now. These engines can have a chequered history, might be worth checking if it was old or new damage? Does sound like a bit of play to me.

Have you got graham's manual? Think it is in the head manual I sent you as well.

maxclark91

Original Poster:

60 posts

108 months

Sunday 26th July 2015
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I took the cam cover off about 3 months ago for powder coating, and I'm sure I didn't see any marks then, the marks also look fresh

nrick

1,866 posts

163 months

Sunday 26th July 2015
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There goes that theory then!

m4tti

5,427 posts

155 months

Sunday 26th July 2015
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maxclark91 said:
Ahhh yes, well I was thinking of changing to the simplex chain now, I already changed to the viton gasket 3 months ago. And I did remove the cam cover whilst hot, that's when I had that much play, do you have pictures of the chain when re built with simplex?

Edited by maxclark91 on Sunday 26th July 19:41
Have lots of pics of various bits and pieces. Have a spare block and head lying around too if there's anything else you want pics of. biggrin






Edited by m4tti on Sunday 26th July 22:49

maxclark91

Original Poster:

60 posts

108 months

Monday 27th July 2015
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Well I'm taking the car in tomorrow and taking the body off so the chassis can be powder coated. I am wondering if it's worth putting a Fff head on it or if it's even possible seeing as I have a 4.3 powers engine, got so m a ny decisions to make or whilst the engine is out do I get it rebuilt to a 4.5? But I suppose I shall have to speak to the experts on this, just think a 4.3 Fff engine would be a first!

m4tti

5,427 posts

155 months

Monday 27th July 2015
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A 4.3 and a FFF head might just be the ultimate speed six configuration....

maxclark91

Original Poster:

60 posts

108 months

Monday 27th July 2015
quotequote all
m4tti said:
A 4.3 and a FFF head might just be the ultimate speed six configuration....
I just need to speak to dom to find out if the Rev limit they put on is due to the the finger followers or because the crank is stroked.

nrick

1,866 posts

163 months

Monday 27th July 2015
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I would imagine it is the piston speed, finger followers (not tvr) were used in the 20,000 rpm F1 engines with pneumatic springs.

dvs_dave

8,623 posts

225 months

Monday 27th July 2015
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Rev limit is not due to finger follower valve train. Incidentally they can actually handle much higher revs than bucket followers can which is one of the numerous reasons motorcycle and F1 engines often use finger followers.

The lower rev limit is due to the stroked crank to keep piston speeds/accelerations and the consequent forces managable as they they are on the high as it is even in a standard engine.