Cutting out hole for sink in worktop tomorrow - any tips?
Discussion
as title. I will be taking a jig saw to an expensive (Duropal laminate) worktop tomorrow to cut out hole for sink, and electric hob. Fingers crossed 
Any tips before I start? Eg is it ok to cut from the top surface. My jig saw has 4 settings for the amount of 'swing' on the blade. I normally just have a little swing, eg 1 or 2, is that what you would suggest.
Any tips before I start? Eg is it ok to cut from the top surface. My jig saw has 4 settings for the amount of 'swing' on the blade. I normally just have a little swing, eg 1 or 2, is that what you would suggest.Treat yourself to a new blade or two and you should be fine cutting from the top, if you see it's beginning to chip the top reduce your amount of swing or put it to zero swing. Careful marking out is obviously important, remember you can use masking tape to mark out if it's a dark top and you can't see a pencil line. Make sure the bowl of the sink is going to end up in the cupboard with any clearance needed for an overflow pipe etc.
If you don't have a template for the sink turn it upside down and draw around it but remember to set back inside that line !
Drill a hole in each corner for the blade before you start cutting, make sure it's well supported so the piece your cutting out isn't going to pull and drop away while your working.
I always like to finish the cut on a straight bit not a corner, it seems easier to finish when your not working into a corner.
Remember to seal the exposed edges before installing the sink with some pva, silicone or wood primer to protect from any water that might creep round the sink.
If you don't have a template for the sink turn it upside down and draw around it but remember to set back inside that line !
Drill a hole in each corner for the blade before you start cutting, make sure it's well supported so the piece your cutting out isn't going to pull and drop away while your working.
I always like to finish the cut on a straight bit not a corner, it seems easier to finish when your not working into a corner.
Remember to seal the exposed edges before installing the sink with some pva, silicone or wood primer to protect from any water that might creep round the sink.
If it's an inset sink that will cover the cut line when sat in the worktop then it's fairly straightforward. Doesn't matter how much of a mess you make, so long as the sink is covering it!
When I did mine for an under-mount sink I spent more time making a jig for the router than I did cutting the hole!
When I did mine for an under-mount sink I spent more time making a jig for the router than I did cutting the hole!
ta. Masking tape; pva on my list. Also these blades look decent - I will use once and then chuck. The reviews seem good and they are reverse cut so I can cut from above. It's a Franke sink so I think it probably has a template.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-101br-wood-jigsa...
http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-101br-wood-jigsa...
I have found that with down cutting blades you need the oscillation (swing) at zero or it will really want to kick the jigsaw upwards especially in a corner. With less or no oscillation the cutting will be slower giving the blade more time to get hot and bend. A bendy cut can make removing the waste material difficult. Just my experience, but I'd always opt to cut from the top with conventional blades.
norfolkmadman said:
I have found that with down cutting blades you need the oscillation (swing) at zero or it will really want to kick the jigsaw upwards especially in a corner. With less or no oscillation the cutting will be slower giving the blade more time to get hot and bend. A bendy cut can make removing the waste material difficult. Just my experience, but I'd always opt to cut from the top with conventional blades.
oscillation will be impeding the cut with a reverse cut blade- it will be drawing the blade away from the face on it's cut stroke! As for tight corners oscillation shouldn't be used as it will make the tool less accurate/more messy/splinteryMany good suggestions have already been made.
Carefully mark out, use masking tape to allow the line to be easily seen, plus prevent the sole of the jigsaw marking the top surface.
Drill out 2 of the corners, opposite corners. We use a 16mm Auger bit.
Support the centre piece when cutting out to prevent it falling / breaking the worktop. a couple of clamps will do.
No need for down cutting blades, they just make it hard work, as the jigsaw will be pushing up all the time.
We use Bosch 101B blades and cut it will minimal oscillation. There is a tiny bit of chipping, up to a mm, so the sink will cover. Let the jigsaw do the work, do force it.
Seal the cut with a generous coat or two of PVA. we do both sink and hob, though not so necessary for the hob.
Carefully mark out, use masking tape to allow the line to be easily seen, plus prevent the sole of the jigsaw marking the top surface.
Drill out 2 of the corners, opposite corners. We use a 16mm Auger bit.
Support the centre piece when cutting out to prevent it falling / breaking the worktop. a couple of clamps will do.
No need for down cutting blades, they just make it hard work, as the jigsaw will be pushing up all the time.
We use Bosch 101B blades and cut it will minimal oscillation. There is a tiny bit of chipping, up to a mm, so the sink will cover. Let the jigsaw do the work, do force it.
Seal the cut with a generous coat or two of PVA. we do both sink and hob, though not so necessary for the hob.
wolfracesonic said:
Make your partner a chopping board out the cut out piece: many brownie points!
I did exactly this, though its a trivet rather than a chopping board as end-grain is much better for chopping. I still have four end cuts and another two cut-outs to fashion into stuff when I have chance. Solid iroko, so far too nice not to do something with. I'm going to make some short fat shelves to put all the tea making stuff on shortly with one piece.Some good advice here and only thing I'd change is I'd do the long cuts with a circular saw and just use the jigsaw for the bends. the circular saw cuts at 90 degrees whereas I've always found jigsaw cuts wander off vertical. But maybe that's just me?
As regards the cut edge, before you put sealant on it, a couple of coats of exterior varnish will ensure it doesn't get wet.
As regards the cut edge, before you put sealant on it, a couple of coats of exterior varnish will ensure it doesn't get wet.
paulrockliffe said:
wolfracesonic said:
Make your partner a chopping board out the cut out piece: many brownie points!
I did exactly this, though its a trivet rather than a chopping board as end-grain is much better for chopping. I still have four end cuts and another two cut-outs to fashion into stuff when I have chance. Solid iroko, so far too nice not to do something with. I'm going to make some short fat shelves to put all the tea making stuff on shortly with one piece.
ColinM50 said:
Some good advice here and only thing I'd change is I'd do the long cuts with a circular saw and just use the jigsaw for the bends. the circular saw cuts at 90 degrees whereas I've always found jigsaw cuts wander off vertical. But maybe that's just me?
As regards the cut edge, before you put sealant on it, a couple of coats of exterior varnish will ensure it doesn't get wet.
I had the same problem, top edge was perfect but the cut was slanted all over the place that badly that the start and finish didn't line up by about an inch underneath.As regards the cut edge, before you put sealant on it, a couple of coats of exterior varnish will ensure it doesn't get wet.
ooo000ooo said:
ColinM50 said:
Some good advice here and only thing I'd change is I'd do the long cuts with a circular saw and just use the jigsaw for the bends. the circular saw cuts at 90 degrees whereas I've always found jigsaw cuts wander off vertical. But maybe that's just me?
As regards the cut edge, before you put sealant on it, a couple of coats of exterior varnish will ensure it doesn't get wet.
I had the same problem, top edge was perfect but the cut was slanted all over the place that badly that the start and finish didn't line up by about an inch underneath.As regards the cut edge, before you put sealant on it, a couple of coats of exterior varnish will ensure it doesn't get wet.
illmonkey said:
ooo000ooo said:
ColinM50 said:
Some good advice here and only thing I'd change is I'd do the long cuts with a circular saw and just use the jigsaw for the bends. the circular saw cuts at 90 degrees whereas I've always found jigsaw cuts wander off vertical. But maybe that's just me?
As regards the cut edge, before you put sealant on it, a couple of coats of exterior varnish will ensure it doesn't get wet.
I had the same problem, top edge was perfect but the cut was slanted all over the place that badly that the start and finish didn't line up by about an inch underneath.As regards the cut edge, before you put sealant on it, a couple of coats of exterior varnish will ensure it doesn't get wet.
A decent one with a bearing guide behind the blade minimises the deflection.It's another reason not to cut from the underneath.
hi all I'll take some pics tomorrow.
We cut worktop to length first with a circular saw (had worktop upside down so didn't chip) then fitted it, and then cut hob out with worktop in situ. Mainly so it didn't snap if we did it on trestles and then carry it over.
I bought the reverse blades for jigsaw - they worked very well. I cut from the top (for the hob - haven't done the sink yet) with no pendulum, and it didn't chip at all. I used wide masking tape to protect the (grey) surface and enable me to see the pencil lines. It cut very straight (vertically) and without too much effort - I think because the blades are brand new and appear to be vey good quality it just worked really well.
Still pretty stressful though as one mistake and it's a mega problem! Will finish sink cutout tomorrow.
We cut worktop to length first with a circular saw (had worktop upside down so didn't chip) then fitted it, and then cut hob out with worktop in situ. Mainly so it didn't snap if we did it on trestles and then carry it over.
I bought the reverse blades for jigsaw - they worked very well. I cut from the top (for the hob - haven't done the sink yet) with no pendulum, and it didn't chip at all. I used wide masking tape to protect the (grey) surface and enable me to see the pencil lines. It cut very straight (vertically) and without too much effort - I think because the blades are brand new and appear to be vey good quality it just worked really well.
Still pretty stressful though as one mistake and it's a mega problem! Will finish sink cutout tomorrow.
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff