Removal of coolant capillary bulb

[billybradshaw]

Evening all,

I've been busy removing the coolant hoses this evening. When I unscrewed the sender for the temp gauge it has become two pieces. Is this right? If so, how do I remove the bulb from the coolant pipe? I believe they are very fragile and I don't want to wreck it.

Cheers

Ian

[pmessling]

Sounds like you've already buggered it.

[Tanguero]

billybradshaw said:

...When I unscrewed the sender for the temp gauge it has become two pieces... I believe they are very fragile and I don't want to wreck it.

Too late I am afraid - it's wrecked! Speedy cables will repair it for you. Note, they are "speedy" by name rather than by nature.

For future reference, the trick to removing the bulb without damage is to soak the boss and nut on the water rail in penetrating oil for several days while running the car up to temperature to warm it up. Free the capillary tube all the way back to the firewall so you have plenty of loose slack. Run the engine to get the rail good and hot and slowly undo the nut making sure that if the bulb turns with the nut, the capillary has enough slack to take the twist without kinking or snapping.

[billybradshaw]

pmessling said:

Sounds like you've already buggered it.

DOH!, thought as much, b*llox

I believe it's a crappy job to replace aswell

[billybradshaw]

Tanguero said:

Too late I am afraid - it's wrecked! Speedy cables will repair it for you. Note, they are "speedy" by name rather than by nature.

For future reference, the trick to removing the bulb without damage is to soak the boss and nut on the water rail in penetrating oil for several days while running the car up to temperature to warm it up. Free the capillary tube all the way back to the firewall so you have plenty of loose slack. Run the engine to get the rail good and hot and slowly undo the nut making sure that if the bulb turns with the nut, the capillary has enough slack to take the twist without kinking or snapping.

Thanks for the tip. Hopefully once it's repaired and back in it won;t need touching for a while.

Thinking about it, is the fitting of an electronic gauge something that has been tackled before whilst of course retaining the looks of the original gauge?

Ta

Ian

[pmessling]

Could always go the SPA dual gauge root for oil pressure water / temp.

[billybradshaw]

pmessling said:

Could always go the SPA dual gauge root for oil pressure water / temp.

OK, just had a look on their website. Presumably the DG200 gauge is the one I'm after.

Am I right in saying that the information from a digital gauge is far more accurate / reliable than the original analogue and therefore, fitting one is an appropriate thing to do whether mine is knackered or not?

Ta

Ian

[thefrog]

billybradshaw said:

OK, just had a look on their website. Presumably the DG200 gauge is the one I'm after.
Am I right in saying that the information from a digital gauge is far more accurate / reliable than the original analogue and therefore, fitting one is an appropriate thing to do whether mine is knackered or not?
Ta
Ian

I have a dual SPA gauge where the clock normally is, Oil Temp + Water Temp. I don't think the gauge will fit the hole in the standard location without it being enlarged a little, I had to dremel a tiny amount of material from the pod to fit mine. The TVR gauges are 50/51mm rather than 52mm iirc.

The digital one may be more accurate, some will argue that an analogue gauge shows fluctations that a digital one won't. E.g sharp spikes or drops in oil pressure won't show up as well in digital as they would on an analogue gauge.

[billybradshaw]

thefrog said:

I have a dual SPA gauge where the clock normally is, Oil Temp + Water Temp. I don't think the gauge will fit the hole in the standard location without it being enlarged a little, I had to dremel a tiny amount of material from the pod to fit mine. The TVR gauges are 50/51mm rather than 52mm iirc.

The digital one may be more accurate, some will argue that an analogue gauge shows fluctations that a digital one won't. E.g sharp spikes or drops in oil pressure won't show up as well in digital as they would on an analogue gauge.

Right OK, thanks for that. I thought the converse would have been the case with respect to fluctuations, etc. hey ho

An SPA gauge it is then. What was going to be quite a simple rad / hose replacement is getting a little more involved and of course expensive........

[pmessling]

The spa gauge can be adjusted for different times but I think would still not allow time for fluctuations as its micro seconds and shows it as a smooth figure. Otherwise would be all over the place.

I had to shave a minimal amount to fit the gauge. The most material I had. Remove was from the pcb above the gauge for the warning lights as I have mine in the original position.

[billybradshaw]

Just ordered the gauge.

How much of the dash do I need to strip down in order to route the cables?

Ta

Ian

[Gazzab]

Would the clock not go where the old oil gauge was housed and then put the new gauge where the clock was. Will be easier to fit and will not make the dash a mix of old and new gauges? Maybe then replace the petrol gauge with a matching spa one? Assuming they make one that is...?! Or put fuel gauge where the oil pressure was and get some other spa gauge next to the oil one down on the binnacle?

Edited to add that they do a fuel level and voltage one...

[Demondad]

Do the SPA gauges come with all that's required to wire into the cars system, I'd appreciate a run through how a water temp/ oil temp one is fitted as mine will need doing this autumn.

[billybradshaw]

Demondad said:

Do the SPA gauges come with all that's required to wire into the cars system, I'd appreciate a run through how a water temp/ oil temp one is fitted as mine will need doing this autumn.

Looking at the pictures on their website it does look to be a complete kit. The only thing that folk have mentioned is the need for adaptors in order to locate the senders on the pipework / engine.

[pmessling]

Yes an adapter for the oil and water. My oil feed comes from the original place between the V under the coil packs. Get some heat reflective sleeve for the cable to protect it. And cable tie it right out the way. Recently had to replace the loom due to it having touched the exhaust.

Careful with the oil sensor as the new type are bigger then the original and the coils need to be brought up to clear.

I removed the oil sensor plug to pull the cables through the grommet that the throttle cable runs through. Just needs a live cable and earth connected plus sensors and works.

[billybradshaw]

pmessling said:

Yes an adapter for the oil and water. My oil feed comes from the original place between the V under the coil packs. Get some heat reflective sleeve for the cable to protect it. And cable tie it right out the way. Recently had to replace the loom due to it having touched the exhaust.

Careful with the oil sensor as the new type are bigger then the original and the coils need to be brought up to clear.

I removed the oil sensor plug to pull the cables through the grommet that the throttle cable runs through. Just needs a live cable and earth connected plus sensors and works.

Morning Peter,

Are the adaptors readily available (and if so what size) or will I need to get some made?

I was looking at the old sender last night and mine might be OK in that I didn't realise that the securing 'nut' is seperate to the main body of the bulb hence why I thought It was in two pieces. I'll bung it in some boiling water tonight and see if it registers.

Cheers

Ian