Pulley removal to get timing cover off

[AndrewS2]

Hi,

Progress continues on my engine rebuild, but one thing continues to thwart me. I've found a couple of threads on this subject by searching, but none seem to come to any conclusion of how people have finally managed to do this...

Basically I need to get this pulley off, to be able to remove the timing cover to scrub and paint it. As you can see, it's in quite a bad way where the water pump fits. It's really full of clud behind the pulley and I just can't get at it to clean.

I've invested in 2 pulley removers, but neither fits the thread correctly (too big to fit up central hole) and the original pulley bolt isn't long enough to reach it's thread and get anything else behind the head to pull with.

Has anyone successfully achieved this, and if you have how did you do it? Really nervous about breaking the pulley... If anyone has the correct pulley tool and is willing to lend it to me, I'll happily pay the postage!!

Current state in picture below




Cheers,

Andrew

[phillpot]

Haynes manual just says "remove bolt and slide pulley off"!


There is probably a "special tool", some sort of puller that picks up on those equi-spaced four threaded holes?


Depending what you have lying around shouldn't be too hard to "knock something up"?

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi
Don't use a leg type remover, you need a remover that bolts to the pulley and pushes against the crank, easy to find on ebay.

Alan

[Oldred_V8S]

Agree with Mike and Alan, some sort of special tool required. What about making your own with some scrap steel with a couple of bolts that thread into the pulley with a larger bolt in the centre that has a turned down end.

Soak with penetrating fluid. I have found XCP Professional to be great. Much better than anything else available on the market.

[v8s4me]

Are the 4 holes at approx 12, 3, 6 & 9 o'clock threaded? If they are then you can use these to attach a home-made puller as the guys above suggest.

[Alan Whitaker]

Hi
These puller sets are only a few pounds to buy.
Don't hit it with a hammer as they are cast and will break, don't use pri bars as that could break it. these will come off by hand or they can be a bugger

Alan



PS it's an old scrap block I uses for welding up the dry sumo on. so it's a bit rusty on the pulley

Edited by Alan Whitaker on Thursday 27th August 12:09

[tvrgit]

Buy?

They are even cheaper to make. This one cost me sod all. Could have done with a thicker metal plate, mind, but this worked, with an old socket as a spacer on the bolt head.

[greymrj]

tvrgit said:

Buy?

They are even cheaper to make. This one cost me sod all. Could have done with a thicker metal plate, mind, but this worked, with an old socket as a spacer on the bolt head.

I agree but while you are at it why not go one further. Wish I could photographic but that would need some digging in the deep dark recesses of a crowded garage.
I have used a 2' long piece of 40mm x 2.5mm angle! Sounds well over the top but it now has a number of holes drilled into it just to fit the TVR. It has the spacings for this job, the spacings to act as a flywheel lock when working at the other end of the engine, and the spacings to hold onto 2 studs when getting the rear wheel hubs off! It is painted bright yellow and should be hanging up.........but I now know that I didnt hang it back up last time. Bugger!

[ijbd]

even better, I used 30 x 30 mm square pipe.
To pull a flywheel off my 8 HP Stuart Turner diesel.
Had to double it, because it started bending, when I started pulling!

regards Boudewijn

[AndrewS2]

Exactly what I needed guys, thanks very much. I'll see what I can come up with and post back with the results!!

May also be worth adding to FAQs?

Andrew

[Barkychoc]

tvrgit said:

Buy?

They are even cheaper to make. This one cost me sod all. Could have done with a thicker metal plate, mind, but this worked, with an old socket as a spacer on the bolt head.

Anyone would think you were from Scotland