Tight gear lever?
Discussion
I've just had a new Tvr 5.0 three piece clutch fitted.
Nice pedal action etc, but now it's harder to engage 1st gear and reverse, not always but the lever feels stiffer most of the time, it also feels like the lever is getting hotter quicker than it used to?
Any ideas why chaps, it was better with the old clutch which had done 56000 miles and worked ok!
Nice pedal action etc, but now it's harder to engage 1st gear and reverse, not always but the lever feels stiffer most of the time, it also feels like the lever is getting hotter quicker than it used to?
Any ideas why chaps, it was better with the old clutch which had done 56000 miles and worked ok!
yeah my left shoulder and arm are f
ked, I dunno it's like I can feel the selectors through my hand! Seriously I'm at traffic lights etc and can't get first gear, big restriction and have to go to second before it will allow me through to first. That never happened before, it was always slick, could the gearbox shifted a tad over to the right or left when refitting clutch. It doesn't feel half as good
When you select reverse, do you get the graunching noise? If so and first is also hard to select then I'd say the clutch is not clearing properly.
As Alex has said, try pumping the pedal 3 times quickly then select first or reverse. If it now goes into gear okay then it just needs bleeding.
If after bleeding there is no improvement then the pressure plate is still exerting force on the clutch plate so could be the release bearing is not assembled to the lever correctly, the clutch plate is sticking on the input shaft or the pressure plate is faulty and too weak.
As Alex has said, try pumping the pedal 3 times quickly then select first or reverse. If it now goes into gear okay then it just needs bleeding.
If after bleeding there is no improvement then the pressure plate is still exerting force on the clutch plate so could be the release bearing is not assembled to the lever correctly, the clutch plate is sticking on the input shaft or the pressure plate is faulty and too weak.
N7GTX said:
When you select reverse, do you get the graunching noise? If so and first is also hard to select then I'd say the clutch is not clearing properly.
As Alex has said, try pumping the pedal 3 times quickly then select first or reverse. If it now goes into gear okay then it just needs bleeding.
If after bleeding there is no improvement then the pressure plate is still exerting force on the clutch plate so could be the release bearing is not assembled to the lever correctly, the clutch plate is sticking on the input shaft or the pressure plate is faulty and too weak.
Nail on the head As Alex has said, try pumping the pedal 3 times quickly then select first or reverse. If it now goes into gear okay then it just needs bleeding.
If after bleeding there is no improvement then the pressure plate is still exerting force on the clutch plate so could be the release bearing is not assembled to the lever correctly, the clutch plate is sticking on the input shaft or the pressure plate is faulty and too weak.
I'll try pumping it and see but it's def not engaging properly!
Alexdaredevils said:
After 10 hours of bleeding the clutch on my ls stbag
Best method (only one that worked for me) 15 psi on the pressure bleeder, pump pump pump x10 hold it down and then open nipple up
It's make you feel like an incompetent fool ( which I am) I've tried a number of times helping a mate get a clutch on his Renault Alpine A610,,,,then a week later it's got no pressure, if he drives it everyday it's fine for say 3 weeks, leaves it in the garage a week and no clutch! He's had it all apart, had Alpine experts check but can't find a fault! It's not just us Tvr owners who pull their hair out. tbagBest method (only one that worked for me) 15 psi on the pressure bleeder, pump pump pump x10 hold it down and then open nipple up
ClassiChimi said:
Alexdaredevils said:
After 10 hours of bleeding the clutch on my ls stbag
Best method (only one that worked for me) 15 psi on the pressure bleeder, pump pump pump x10 hold it down and then open nipple up
It's make you feel like an incompetent fool ( which I am) I've tried a number of times helping a mate get a clutch on his Renault Alpine A610,,,,then a week later it's got no pressure, if he drives it everyday it's fine for say 3 weeks, leaves it in the garage a week and no clutch! He's had it all apart, had Alpine experts check but can't find a fault! It's not just us Tvr owners who pull their hair out. tbagBest method (only one that worked for me) 15 psi on the pressure bleeder, pump pump pump x10 hold it down and then open nipple up
yes mate, I've only just got over it 
Al, assuming the hydraulics are ok and you have a proper bite point on the clutch symptons similar to a bent linkage which these are prone to, particularly if the gearbox is not supported when the engines out. Easy enough to check - ring me.
Ian
Ian
Edited by roseytvr on Saturday 29th August 22:57
roseytvr said:
Al, assuming the hydraulics are ok and you have a proper bite point on the clutch symptons similar to a bent linkage which these are prone to, particularly if the gearbox is not supported when the engines out. Easy enough to check - ring me.
Ian
^^^^THIS^^^^Ian
Edited by roseytvr on Saturday 29th August 22:57
It's all too easy to bend/tweak the TVR remote linkage when you drop the box to fit a clutch in a Chimaera or Griff, Its highly likely this is what happened when your clutch was replaced and why your shift action has become stiff.
Take it back and ask Dom to sort it, I'm sure he'll do the right thing by you.
To be honest the way TVR moved the gear stick forward was a but Heath Robinson, it works acceptably when everything is straight and aligned but even then it's not the best. The T5 is a super sweet shifting box if you directly move the forks like Borg Warner intended.
But with the TVR linkage what you find is the slightest tweak of the rod can give it a very nasty action indeed.
In my opinion the solution is the Borg Warner S10 rear housing that moves the gear stick forward in a proper engineered way, TVR themselves knew this was the way to go as demonstrated by the fact their Chimaera & Griffith linkage was deleted for the Tuscan, T350, Tamora & Sagaris in favor of the proper S10 rear housing.
Next time my gearbox comes out I'm putting an S10 tail housing on it, read my post here (with pictures) to give you a better idea of what I'm on about.
http://www.pistonheads.com/Gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
This should give you a quick understanding, the T5 at the bottom is what we have, and a T5 with the S10 housing bove it.
And here's how TVR moved the gear stick forward on the Chimaera & Griffiths:
Once you have the S10 tail housing you can also start to look at the nice kits from the states that can improve the feel of the T5 box further by giving you some more self centering spring effect and a cleaner sharper shift action at the lever.
Here's my current favorite, called the "White Lightening" it comes from American Powertrain in the good ol US of A.
http://americanpowertrain.com/i-8425869-white-ligh...
One of these kits with the S10 tail housing on the back a Chim or Griff T5 box should absolutely transform the shift action and feel, and by deleting the rather cobbled together TVR linkage you'll never have another bent rod issue when you fit a clutch.
That's a very interesting read! I'll concentrate on determining why mines gone from perfect to tight, notchy, and noisy first!
I'll go for a test drive shortly ( any excuse to drive ) and hopefully it responds to some quick pumps on the pedal ( hydraulic )
If not I'm leaning towards a bent shaft! Mmm.
I'll go for a test drive shortly ( any excuse to drive ) and hopefully it responds to some quick pumps on the pedal ( hydraulic )
If not I'm leaning towards a bent shaft! Mmm.
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