Basic Bike Fit Tips

[AlfaFoxtrot]

Been commuting to work (4 miles each way) on a 1980's steel framed roadbike, with the odd longer ride out into the countryside if the weather's alright. I use cleats (Shimano mountain bike SPD as it means I can have a flat pedal on one side for nipping into town/pub), and have had zero problems with it for the last couple of years.

Recently bought a posh road bike, fitted SPD pedals to that so I can use the same shoes. Really enjoy using it, and have started doing longer rides at the weekends (50-70miles). After some initial fiddling with the saddle height, I haven't given any thought to the geometry, as aside from a sore arse (primarily due to time in the saddle) there were no problems. Last weekend though, I did a hilly 70miles and now have got some 'twinges' in my right knee whilst doing the weekly commute. I'm 26 and fairly fit, so although I have upped my average weekly distance noticeably over the last couple of months, I'm worried there's an angle wrong somewhere and that I'm damaging things...

So I'm now weighing up a few local places to get a proper bike fitting, but most have got a few weeks waiting list. In the meantime I'm happy to avoid longer rides, but if there are any changes I can make to reduce extra damage to the knee during the (unavoidable) commute that would be nice. Having done a bit of reading it sounds like cleat angle and saddle position (forward/back) are some of the most common - any general tips for these bits or other parts of bike geometry?

[PorscheGT4]

Spin more and look at knee angles, a bike fit won't do much IMO,

Spd suck also, I run speedplay which give more float as my left leg/ foot is not 100% straight so the speed play allows float.

Fit shorter crank arms to reduce knee angles etc. and Google seat height. People don't need a bike fit IMO. Not a basic one any way, real bike fits are about finding watts.

Normally what feels right is right, also every one has their own idea about seat , basic fit, French fit etc etc.
Knee over axel, behind axel, infront of axel etc if one bike fit place like one of those that's what you get !

Edited by PorscheGT4 on Monday 31st August 17:30

[gareth h]

Some years ago when I bought a new mtb I started to get knee problems, the old bike was a kona hard tail which had a stretch to the bars, the new fs cannondale felt strange because it didn't have the same stretch so I adjusted the saddle as far back as it would go on the rails, I started to get knee problems and it was suggested that it was due to the saddle putting my knees behind the crank, I adjusted the saddle back to the mid position and the knee problems went away.
Might be worth checking saddle position

[MrsMiggins]

This is not the most exciting read, but might give you some ideas on where you should adjust.
http://www.abcc.co.uk/how-to-set-up-your-road-bike...

[gareth h]

Some years ago when I bought a new mtb I started to get knee problems, the old bike was a kona hard tail which had a stretch to the bars, the new fs cannondale felt strange because it didn't have the same stretch so I adjusted the saddle as far back as it would go on the rails, I started to get knee problems and it was suggested that it was due to the saddle putting my knees behind the crank, I adjusted the saddle back to the mid position and the knee problems went away.
Might be worth checking saddle position

[thiscocks]

I use the lemond/Guimard formula for finding the ideal distance from the top of the saddle to the centre of the bottom bracket / crank bolt. You multiply your inside leg measurement by 0.883. It is a recognized formula but ofcourse there are others and it is not black and white but certainly gives a good base point for the most important measurement on a bike.

Spds are fine, so no need to change them.

[m444ttb]

I disagree with the above regarding bike fit. Find someone good that will work with your feedback, look at your level of flexibility etc and go from there. The last I fit I had (at Performance Cycles near Cirencester) put my road bike saddle up a lot. It didn't feel right straight away but now feels so much better. Don't expect to make any reasonably large change and not need to work into it a little either.

[thiscocks]

Bike fit places will just use formulas similar to what I mentioned to get correct heights anyway if not less calculated ways like leg angle. Only difference is your paying someone 100 odd quid for the pleasure.

[scherzkeks]

https://books.google.de/books?id=VMkEBAAAQBAJ&...

Read that. It is from Retul, but is basically the old school CONI method. It's fairly fail-safe.

I would avoid .883 and other formulas, as they assume you want to pedal with 3-4 cm of heel rise. Also, they tend to put you on a larger than average frame for your body. That was how the Guimard system worked. I have the original book at home, and would not recommend it.

If your frame fits, you should end up with 15-20 cm of saddle and seatpost showing above the top tube. Less for smaller, more for larger people.

[AlfaFoxtrot]

Looks like I've got some reading to do! Thanks for the suggestions so far. I'll aim to make whatever modifications come out of the various sources and try it out on some easier ride. If I still have issues I'll consider a proper bike fit.