350i misfire - the return....
Discussion
mrzigazaga said:
Keith...What colour rotor arms are you buying...These should be fine...
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=...
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=...
Sounds like you have duff parts mate...So frigging annoying....
I have heard that the new lucas badged rotor arms, are not made how they used too and are no better than the cheap copies.https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=...
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=...
Sounds like you have duff parts mate...So frigging annoying....
I think TVR power or one of the other big TVR companies have had a replacement re-engineered so its the correct weight, I think they are about £15, but they will work as originally designed.
Not sure if Neil uses the same ones, as the last one I got from him was about £18
Very true Leigh...Worth doing some digging really ...I normally buy my bits from either Brit part or Landcover 4x4..And have bought from JGS before and touch wood i have had no issues with parts...All this faffing around with distributors and ignition amps and coils is getting me worried...Lord help us.....Ziga
adam quantrill said:
I bought and fitted ebay item 361184303635 a few months ago and they have performed well with no problems. I have put about 1200 miles on them so far I guess.
I agree the original Lucas ones would be best but they are probably all used up now.
Ha! Bought this exact set last night on line so good to hear it's still going strong. At the Neil Garner day today Racetech were there and they had all sorts of bits and pieces including OEM spec rotor arms. I bought one for £12 to see how it compares to the PowerSpark ones. It must weight twice as much and is a totally different material - similar to the old bakealite of years ago. When my new distributor internals arrive I'll refit with the OEM rotor arm for starters. Cheers.I agree the original Lucas ones would be best but they are probably all used up now.
Thought I'd update the situation re the 350i and it's mysterious misfire. Well the dissy is now working and the large hesitant misfire has gone and been replaced with a major continual misfire on every cylinder, once the engine is warm.
Just to summarise then, list of things checked or changed so far:
1. Distributor replaced
2. Ignition amps replaced (twice)
3. Coil replaced (twice)
4. Ignition loom around coil/distributor area remade
5. ECU swapped over with a known good one - no difference.
6. AFM swapped over with a known good one - no difference
7. CTS swapped with a brand new one - no difference
8. Thermotime switch swapped with known good one - no difference
9. All injectors were replaced in the summer as was the fuel pump and fuel regulator.
10. Full set of new spark plugs have been fitted which made no difference.
11. New set of good quality HT leads fitted - no difference.
12. Engine earth has been checked and is all okay.
13. Throttle pot sensor changed with a known good one - no difference.
Just to summarise the fault - car starts on the button, revs clean and is a happy thing until the engine gets totally warmed up. Engine then starts to misfire and hunt a little and then gets progressively worse to the point where it stalls.
As it starts and runs okay for at least 10 minutes without issue then I'm assuming it's not a mechanical problem such as camshaft/tappets etc. There are no nasty noises and oil pressure is also okay.
Fuel pressure is spot on and timing is correct. When the engine is misfiring and hunting the gauges are all steady and the fuel pressure is also steady.
When it's misfiring I've tried one at a time disconnecting the TPS, the thermotime switch and the cold start injectors and this makes no difference at all.
It's got to be something breaking down with heat. About the only thing I've not changed yet is the power resistor - would this give these symptoms? Anything else obvious I'm missing here?? Thanks.
Disgruntled Wedge owner.
Just to summarise then, list of things checked or changed so far:
1. Distributor replaced
2. Ignition amps replaced (twice)
3. Coil replaced (twice)
4. Ignition loom around coil/distributor area remade
5. ECU swapped over with a known good one - no difference.
6. AFM swapped over with a known good one - no difference
7. CTS swapped with a brand new one - no difference
8. Thermotime switch swapped with known good one - no difference
9. All injectors were replaced in the summer as was the fuel pump and fuel regulator.
10. Full set of new spark plugs have been fitted which made no difference.
11. New set of good quality HT leads fitted - no difference.
12. Engine earth has been checked and is all okay.
13. Throttle pot sensor changed with a known good one - no difference.
Just to summarise the fault - car starts on the button, revs clean and is a happy thing until the engine gets totally warmed up. Engine then starts to misfire and hunt a little and then gets progressively worse to the point where it stalls.
As it starts and runs okay for at least 10 minutes without issue then I'm assuming it's not a mechanical problem such as camshaft/tappets etc. There are no nasty noises and oil pressure is also okay.
Fuel pressure is spot on and timing is correct. When the engine is misfiring and hunting the gauges are all steady and the fuel pressure is also steady.
When it's misfiring I've tried one at a time disconnecting the TPS, the thermotime switch and the cold start injectors and this makes no difference at all.
It's got to be something breaking down with heat. About the only thing I've not changed yet is the power resistor - would this give these symptoms? Anything else obvious I'm missing here?? Thanks.
Disgruntled Wedge owner.
adam quantrill said:
Keith, out of your list above, what have you swapped since changing the distributor to the latest one?
Also do you have any way of checking the CO/mixture when it's warm?
Hi Adam, I swapped the dissy this morning and all was well - until it warmed up. This afternoon I've tried again and swapped out coil, AFM and ECU. Plus checked timing, fuel pressure, plus tried disconnecting various items while it was running to see if any made a difference. Also do you have any way of checking the CO/mixture when it's warm?
I could try ignition amp again but the one fitted was brand new 3 weeks ago.
I'm hoping to get my hands on the 390Se this week, fingers crossed, and in disgust I'm probably going to give the same garage the 350i to bloody sort out. They have CO/mixture equipment plus a load of diagnostics. It seems the summer has gone and apart from the BBWF and the TVR-CC 50th weekend the Wedge has been broken. I do so much like the idea of carbs......
It's quite possible the dodgy dizzy was hiding a fault from one of the new components. So from your list you still have to do again:
7. CTS swapped with a brand new one - no difference
2. Ignition amps replaced (twice)
3. Coil replaced (twice)
11. New set of good quality HT leads fitted - no difference.
13. Throttle pot sensor changed with a known good one - no difference.
8. Thermotime switch swapped with known good one - no difference
Do 7 first then work your way through the rest one by one. I have re-ordered them in what I think is the most to least likely.
At least now the misfire is consistent and once it's warm it should be a matter of minutes to swap stuff back over (apart from the HT leads).
7. CTS swapped with a brand new one - no difference
2. Ignition amps replaced (twice)
3. Coil replaced (twice)
11. New set of good quality HT leads fitted - no difference.
13. Throttle pot sensor changed with a known good one - no difference.
8. Thermotime switch swapped with known good one - no difference
Do 7 first then work your way through the rest one by one. I have re-ordered them in what I think is the most to least likely.
At least now the misfire is consistent and once it's warm it should be a matter of minutes to swap stuff back over (apart from the HT leads).
adam quantrill said:
So from your list you still have to do again:
7. CTS swapped with a brand new one - no difference
2. Ignition amps replaced (twice)
3. Coil replaced (twice)
11. New set of good quality HT leads fitted - no difference.
13. Throttle pot sensor changed with a known good one - no difference.
8. Thermotime switch swapped with known good one - no difference
Do 7 first then work your way through the rest one by one. I have re-ordered them in what I think is the most to least likely.
At least now the misfire is consistent and once it's warm it should be a matter of minutes to swap stuff back over (apart from the HT leads).
Okay - job for the dark evenings this week. I've got a brand new CTS that I've just bought from Neil at ML Performance. Cheers.7. CTS swapped with a brand new one - no difference
2. Ignition amps replaced (twice)
3. Coil replaced (twice)
11. New set of good quality HT leads fitted - no difference.
13. Throttle pot sensor changed with a known good one - no difference.
8. Thermotime switch swapped with known good one - no difference
Do 7 first then work your way through the rest one by one. I have re-ordered them in what I think is the most to least likely.
At least now the misfire is consistent and once it's warm it should be a matter of minutes to swap stuff back over (apart from the HT leads).
Hi Keith i know this sounds strange but are the thermotime and CTS plugs on the right way...Mine has a brown for the CTS and black or what used to be cream for the thermotime...This issue also sounds very similar to when i was having an issue with the CTS...I thought i had dodgy parts but it turned out to be the actual wires in the plug connector so could be something similar but further down...Have you tried it with the cold start injector unplugged.Mine was dumping in too much fuel when hot down to the failing CTS.
I recently developed a mis-fire...The car wouldn't rev over 2000rpm and there was a strong smell of fuel...She broke down twice today...Once on the way to a classic car show and then on the way back...I assumed it was the dodgy fuel pump connections that i need to sort but it turned out to be the ECU plug which had come out by such a small amount that by pushing it back in wouldn't feel like anything at all..But it was enough to cause this potentially dangerous situation, Especially when you are laying on the floor next to the car on a dual carriage way....
...people just don't look FFS...
I know you have tried another ECU but if the plug connector is not sitting in there properly then you will get the same symptoms.....Maybe....
I recently developed a mis-fire...The car wouldn't rev over 2000rpm and there was a strong smell of fuel...She broke down twice today...Once on the way to a classic car show and then on the way back...I assumed it was the dodgy fuel pump connections that i need to sort but it turned out to be the ECU plug which had come out by such a small amount that by pushing it back in wouldn't feel like anything at all..But it was enough to cause this potentially dangerous situation, Especially when you are laying on the floor next to the car on a dual carriage way....
...people just don't look FFS...I know you have tried another ECU but if the plug connector is not sitting in there properly then you will get the same symptoms.....Maybe....
Okay. I'd just like to say I think I've FOUND IT, FOUND IT, FOUND IT!So changed the CTS, TPS, ignition amp and no difference. Car starts from cold great, revs clean, pulls like a train, go for a drive and then..... it starts to warm up and the mysterious misfire slowly creeps in, getting worse and worse as the engine bay temperature increases.
So, pulled up in the garage with it coughing and spluttering, opened the bonnet and turned all the lights off and guess what - it's like f
ing Blackpool illuminations! The brand new coil is lighting up like a thunderstorm and 4" of the (also brand new) king lead where it runs close to the offside rocker cover is pulsating like a fluorescent light strip. You can see 2" either side of where it gets close to the rocker cover physically and quite spectacularly buzzing away, in a very attractive shade of electric blue!I'm guessing that as the temperature increases then so does the breakdown of the insulation qualities of the HT lead and coil. So yet another (third) coil to be ordered plus a new set of HT leads. The last two sets of HT leads were from PowerSpark, 8mm silicon jobbies. I think Mr Bosch is calling me. Anyone tried these new solid state coils rather than the old fashioned oil filled ones?
Keith..I have said all along about quality of parts so why you are debating whether to buy a Bosch coil or a set of Range rover V8 leads..Seriously..DO NOT BUY SHYTE PARTS AS ITS FALSE ECONOMY....TVR Parts limited have two choices of HT leads for the RV8..I would buy either or equivalent from Britpart or JGS or Landrover 4x4 ..As for the coil...Bosch would be a good choice, Again TVR parts have them in stock, They are listed for Griff, Chims etc but i should imagine this covers the pre-serp engines as well...Whenever i buy parts i always double check to make sure they are compatible with EFI...Lucas/Bosch etc...Although when i say this I'm talking about the original parts...Yes they were over engineered but i say Effing good job too!...
Buy a good set of leads and coil lead..They don't need to be Magnecore or any other extortionate make...If you were to buy a good set of leads for around £24 each year then you know you have a good healthy spark..
Wipe your dizzy cap out with a clean cloth every month and check the carbon rod and spring in the top ...Clean connectors/Plugs and check condition of spark plugs and air filter every couple of months..
Check and clean earths, Especially the bundle down near the N/S front suspension turret...Also check your flame trap and breather on N/S rocker...Many happy days will be on the horizon...And in your excitement try to take a camera with you for a spontaneous pic of the beast somewhere ...Spontaneous....
Buy a good set of leads and coil lead..They don't need to be Magnecore or any other extortionate make...If you were to buy a good set of leads for around £24 each year then you know you have a good healthy spark..
Wipe your dizzy cap out with a clean cloth every month and check the carbon rod and spring in the top ...Clean connectors/Plugs and check condition of spark plugs and air filter every couple of months..
Check and clean earths, Especially the bundle down near the N/S front suspension turret...Also check your flame trap and breather on N/S rocker...Many happy days will be on the horizon...And in your excitement try to take a camera with you for a spontaneous pic of the beast somewhere ...Spontaneous....
mrzigazaga said:
Keith..I have said all along about quality of parts so why you are debating whether to buy a Bosch coil or a set of Range rover V8 leads..Seriously..DO NOT BUY SHYTE PARTS AS ITS FALSE ECONOMY....TVR Parts limited have two choices of HT leads for the RV8..I would buy either or equivalent from Britpart or JGS or Landrover 4x4 ..As for the coil...Bosch would be a good choice, Again TVR parts have them in stock, They are listed for Griff, Chims etc but i should imagine this covers the pre-serp engines as well...Whenever i buy parts i always double check to make sure they are compatible with EFI...Lucas/Bosch etc...Although when i say this I'm talking about the original parts...Yes they were over engineered but i say Effing good job too!...
Buy a good set of leads and coil lead..They don't need to be Magnecore or any other extortionate make...If you were to buy a good set of leads for around £24 each year then you know you have a good healthy spark..
Wipe your dizzy cap out with a clean cloth every month and check the carbon rod and spring in the top ...Clean connectors/Plugs and check condition of spark plugs and air filter every couple of months..
Check and clean earths, Especially the bundle down near the N/S front suspension turret...Also check your flame trap and breather on N/S rocker...Many happy days will be on the horizon...And in your excitement try to take a camera with you for a spontaneous pic of the beast somewhere ...Spontaneous....
Mark, HT leads and coil have been ordered from TVR Parts, at a small cost of £88.62. Live and learn. FFS - you never know. There might be two unreliable TVR's actually working in deepest darkest Herefordshire this weeekend. Shelsley Walsh breakfast club on Sunday (hopefully) here we come. More red wine needed sir...... it's been a sBuy a good set of leads and coil lead..They don't need to be Magnecore or any other extortionate make...If you were to buy a good set of leads for around £24 each year then you know you have a good healthy spark..
Wipe your dizzy cap out with a clean cloth every month and check the carbon rod and spring in the top ...Clean connectors/Plugs and check condition of spark plugs and air filter every couple of months..
Check and clean earths, Especially the bundle down near the N/S front suspension turret...Also check your flame trap and breather on N/S rocker...Many happy days will be on the horizon...And in your excitement try to take a camera with you for a spontaneous pic of the beast somewhere ...Spontaneous....
t week.
So normal service has now been resumed! New TVR Parts coil from griff/Chimp and HT lead set bought, installed and all is good.
So just for the record the three issues I've had over the last 3 months have all been ignition related.
1. New distributor after 3 weeks failed and was down to a failed Hall effect pickup (the bit inside the distributor). Lesson learnt - just because it's new do not think it will not be the issue!
2. Brand new and reasonably expensive HT lead set found to be breaking down when hot and arching through to engine components. Lesson learnt - just because it's new do not think it will not be the issue!
3. Brand new coil, which came with the brand new distributor failed and broke down whenever engine bay temperature increased. Lesson learnt - just because it's new do not think it will not be the issue!
So all three brand new items were faulty. Just for the record all three items were bought from a reputable seller. They were not cheap st off eBay. If you want any more information then private message me. Going forward it's TVR Parts, ML Performance or RT Racing for my parts.
And top tip of the month - if you've got a misfire open the bonnet at night, turn the lights off and have a damn good look around to see if there's anything blue, sparky and interesting going on under your bonnet.
350i sorted - 390SE pending...... - update tomorrow! It's Ciderclock.
So just for the record the three issues I've had over the last 3 months have all been ignition related.
1. New distributor after 3 weeks failed and was down to a failed Hall effect pickup (the bit inside the distributor). Lesson learnt - just because it's new do not think it will not be the issue!
2. Brand new and reasonably expensive HT lead set found to be breaking down when hot and arching through to engine components. Lesson learnt - just because it's new do not think it will not be the issue!
3. Brand new coil, which came with the brand new distributor failed and broke down whenever engine bay temperature increased. Lesson learnt - just because it's new do not think it will not be the issue!
So all three brand new items were faulty. Just for the record all three items were bought from a reputable seller. They were not cheap s
t off eBay. If you want any more information then private message me. Going forward it's TVR Parts, ML Performance or RT Racing for my parts.And top tip of the month - if you've got a misfire open the bonnet at night, turn the lights off and have a damn good look around to see if there's anything blue, sparky and interesting going on under your bonnet.
350i sorted - 390SE pending...... - update tomorrow! It's Ciderclock.
...Nice one mate...Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff