Using a cordless drill as an impact wrench
Discussion
After fighting with a couple of very stubborn caliper bolts (allen-type) last weekend, I was musing about the possibility of repurposing my B&D cordless drill as some kind of impact gun to undo stubborn bolts (using a torque wrench to tighten, of course).
I guess my questions are:
- The drill has an 'impact' setting, but I'm damned if I know what that means. Would this suffice?
- Is there a reliable way to adapt a cordless drill to take sockets?
- Can this be done without needing to go and buy a load of new impact sockets?
- Is this likely to just result in rounding off things like allen bolts?
I guess my questions are:
- The drill has an 'impact' setting, but I'm damned if I know what that means. Would this suffice?
- Is there a reliable way to adapt a cordless drill to take sockets?
- Can this be done without needing to go and buy a load of new impact sockets?
- Is this likely to just result in rounding off things like allen bolts?
- The drill more likely has a "hammer" setting, this is not the same as an impact driver. The hammer setting (if that is what it is) is for drilling into masonary.
- There are several ways to adapt it, but none will likely withstand a true "impact" action.
- Yes, again if it is true "impact" you will likely damage/crack/shatter the sockets as they are less beefy than impact type and heat treated differently.
- Very likely, yes.
You could always just buy -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HAWK-TOOLS-1-2-SQUARE-DR...
or cordless -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CORDLESS-IMPACT-WRENCH-2...
I have one of the mains ones branded differently, but identical including spec & it has not failed to release anything yet.
- There are several ways to adapt it, but none will likely withstand a true "impact" action.
- Yes, again if it is true "impact" you will likely damage/crack/shatter the sockets as they are less beefy than impact type and heat treated differently.
- Very likely, yes.
You could always just buy -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HAWK-TOOLS-1-2-SQUARE-DR...
or cordless -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CORDLESS-IMPACT-WRENCH-2...
I have one of the mains ones branded differently, but identical including spec & it has not failed to release anything yet.
I don't how much torque you'll get from a drill.
I use something like this, but mine came with Hex keys as well.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0001K9R8U/ref=...
I use something like this, but mine came with Hex keys as well.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0001K9R8U/ref=...
mjh64 said:
Good find, the only issue being the statement in the advert "Socket adaptors not suitable for impact drivers or drills with a torque rating higher than 80Nm" which in real terms is not a huge amount of torque.C70R said:
- The drill has an 'impact' setting, but I'm damned if I know what that means. Would this suffice?
Hammer goes in and out to push a drill bit through a wall.Impact applies massive torque as it turns, to shock loosen a bolt or screw.
C70R said:
- Is there a reliable way to adapt a cordless drill to take sockets?
Yes - theres loads on eBay for a couple of quid. I would be interested in seeing if anyone knows a proper impact one, though - I've just bought myself a 160nm impact driver and I can see it snapping the cheap ones!C70R said:
- Can this be done without needing to go and buy a load of new impact sockets?
You can use ordinary sockets with impact wrenches, but they won't last as long.Your biggest problem is going to be torque - my Bosch drill puts out 60nm - that's great for driving screws into walls etc, and to be honest in wood it can probably do them up tighter than I can by hand - but it can't undo a wheel nut (125nm).
Thanks all. Some interesting points.
To tell you the truth, it's more a case of using it as a last resort, particularly in instances where a piddly allen key or lack of space for a pry bar prevent increasing leverage. Only after significant swearing and skinned knuckles removing four allen-head caliper bolts (with standard allen keys) did it occur to me that the drill next to me might have made the job easier.
I might grab those adapters from Screwfix and give it a bash with some old sockets. If that fails, then it will be a case of potentially picking up a dedicated tool, should I feel lazy enough.
To tell you the truth, it's more a case of using it as a last resort, particularly in instances where a piddly allen key or lack of space for a pry bar prevent increasing leverage. Only after significant swearing and skinned knuckles removing four allen-head caliper bolts (with standard allen keys) did it occur to me that the drill next to me might have made the job easier.
I might grab those adapters from Screwfix and give it a bash with some old sockets. If that fails, then it will be a case of potentially picking up a dedicated tool, should I feel lazy enough.
E-bmw said:
I hate to be the one to point out the obvious, but, if you can't get a piddly pry bar in, what are the chances of getting a drill & socket adapter in?
A pertinent point. But it was the case that there wasn't enough horizontal/rotational space to get a pry bar and turn it, whereas there was just enough depth to get a drill in.I can't imagine all scenarios will be like this. However, the case of the allen bolt issue meant that a pry bar was useless anyway, as it would have probably snapped the allen key!
C70R said:
A pertinent point. But it was the case that there wasn't enough horizontal/rotational space to get a pry bar and turn it, whereas there was just enough depth to get a drill in.
I can't imagine all scenarios will be like this. However, the case of the allen bolt issue meant that a pry bar was useless anyway, as it would have probably snapped the allen key!
Just get a proper socket, not expensive and you'll need it when you torque it up.I can't imagine all scenarios will be like this. However, the case of the allen bolt issue meant that a pry bar was useless anyway, as it would have probably snapped the allen key!
TBH getting it undone with an hex key was a pretty good effort, or it wasn't that tight in the 1st place.
PositronicRay said:
C70R said:
A pertinent point. But it was the case that there wasn't enough horizontal/rotational space to get a pry bar and turn it, whereas there was just enough depth to get a drill in.
I can't imagine all scenarios will be like this. However, the case of the allen bolt issue meant that a pry bar was useless anyway, as it would have probably snapped the allen key!
Just get a proper socket, not expensive and you'll need it when you torque it up.I can't imagine all scenarios will be like this. However, the case of the allen bolt issue meant that a pry bar was useless anyway, as it would have probably snapped the allen key!
TBH getting it undone with an hex key was a pretty good effort, or it wasn't that tight in the 1st place.
Those 4 hex bolts were probably the most stubborn I've removed in my life. On the one side I felt like I was on the verge of lifting the car (an old Polo) off the stand at that corner!
one eyed mick said:
Would you use a wood saw for cutting steel ? use the correct tools in all circumstances or do you just like ruining equipment and spending money , at times there is so much bull on here !!!!!!
Erm... OK. Seems like quite an odd thing to get so angry about. I'm just looking to save the skin on my knuckles, without too much outlay. Hardly the crime of the century, but it's nice of you to worry about my £80 B&D drill.I think if you were to limit home mechanics to using "the correct tools in all circumstances", nobody would ever get the tricky jobs done.
I've got a set of the drill adaptors and use them simply for whizzing long bolts in quickly then do them up with a torque wrench. Just saves time spinning things in by hand and will spin a wheel bolt (for example) out in a second once it's been cracked off. I wouldn't expect it to "undo" anything really and I have breaker bars for that anyway. My garage has not power so proper air tools are not an option sadly.
C70R said:
PositronicRay said:
C70R said:
A pertinent point. But it was the case that there wasn't enough horizontal/rotational space to get a pry bar and turn it, whereas there was just enough depth to get a drill in.
I can't imagine all scenarios will be like this. However, the case of the allen bolt issue meant that a pry bar was useless anyway, as it would have probably snapped the allen key!
Just get a proper socket, not expensive and you'll need it when you torque it up.I can't imagine all scenarios will be like this. However, the case of the allen bolt issue meant that a pry bar was useless anyway, as it would have probably snapped the allen key!
TBH getting it undone with an hex key was a pretty good effort, or it wasn't that tight in the 1st place.
Those 4 hex bolts were probably the most stubborn I've removed in my life. On the one side I felt like I was on the verge of lifting the car (an old Polo) off the stand at that corner!
I can't believe this is even being entertained as an idea. I'd be astounded if a power drill on hammer setting could've cracked off the M6 set screws holding my ABS sensors in. It'd be entirely useless for any purpose other than drilling and possibly spinning nice free clean bolts in and out of threads, a job which a speed brace or similar would do much more effectively and with less fuss.
HustleRussell said:
I can't believe this is even being entertained as an idea. I'd be astounded if a power drill on hammer setting could've cracked off the M6 set screws holding my ABS sensors in. It'd be entirely useless for any purpose other than drilling and possibly spinning nice free clean bolts in and out of threads, a job which a speed brace or similar would do much more effectively and with less fuss.
Well, that sort of was my question...PosRay - Thanks for that. Had no idea such thing even existed.
The proper tools are not difficult to source as shown in posts above , and last a life time , I have sockets etc from my first tool kit which I started to assemble 53 years go ,I have been on the tools right up to retirement and still service /repair my own toy [ mx5 ], I did not mean to upset any one but obviously have and apologise but still think there is to much bull on here
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