Murcie Power steering pipes
Discussion
Painful work last night.
The small one above the front diff is out - it is only about 5 inches long - I found getting in the boot gave best access.
I already knew that the long one for the lift system that runs front to back was wet, but almost every part of it was wet and sticky even the section in the engine bay. So I decided to take that out as well.
It was fitted to the car before the engine and transmission went in !!! It is cable tied to the metal pipes at some impossible to reach locations above the gearbox. It is held on at the front by a banjo bold / bleed nipple combo - the fluid is under pressure here so it shot out everywhere. You then just feed it along the transmission tunnel. At one point I could not reach the cable tie so I had to cut the banjo connection off to continue feeding it through.
This is a heavily reinforced / braded metal hose and took some cutting to get through it. Which does make me surprised that it was so wet and sticky, perhaps it becomes porous over time ?
I got stuck at the engine bay, I can see where it connectors to a diverter block but the bolt is almost impossible to get at, and there are a million bits in the way. Will have another go tonight, and will post pics of the offending hose. Hopefully will get some replacements made up next week - refitting looks easier as I can route it where I want.
Car is on a lift so going from top to bottom is easy to do - would be impossible without. The car underneath is covered with towels to stop it being dripped onto !
Del
The small one above the front diff is out - it is only about 5 inches long - I found getting in the boot gave best access.
I already knew that the long one for the lift system that runs front to back was wet, but almost every part of it was wet and sticky even the section in the engine bay. So I decided to take that out as well.
It was fitted to the car before the engine and transmission went in !!! It is cable tied to the metal pipes at some impossible to reach locations above the gearbox. It is held on at the front by a banjo bold / bleed nipple combo - the fluid is under pressure here so it shot out everywhere. You then just feed it along the transmission tunnel. At one point I could not reach the cable tie so I had to cut the banjo connection off to continue feeding it through.
This is a heavily reinforced / braded metal hose and took some cutting to get through it. Which does make me surprised that it was so wet and sticky, perhaps it becomes porous over time ?
I got stuck at the engine bay, I can see where it connectors to a diverter block but the bolt is almost impossible to get at, and there are a million bits in the way. Will have another go tonight, and will post pics of the offending hose. Hopefully will get some replacements made up next week - refitting looks easier as I can route it where I want.
Car is on a lift so going from top to bottom is easy to do - would be impossible without. The car underneath is covered with towels to stop it being dripped onto !
Del
Morning,
The shocks were dry
The pipework to them was dry
There were no leaks in the engine bay.
Catfood did suggest that the short hose above the front diff leaks - that area is wet
Last night I finally got the jacking system hose out. I pass Pirteck on my way to work and had them make up some new ones. He felt that it was unlikely to be porous, but it had a manufactured date stamped on it of 2002, and over time heat, movement and pressure could allow fluid to leak out.
£120 pounds later and I have a nice new shiny hose 3.5m long rated at 350 bar / 5000PSI ! you could probably get it a bit cheaper but it was quick and convenient.
I have seen enough episodes of Wheeler Dealers to know that you turn the wheel left to right to get the power steering system to fill up, and there are a couple of bleed nipples on the lifting system.
Del
The shocks were dry
The pipework to them was dry
There were no leaks in the engine bay.
Catfood did suggest that the short hose above the front diff leaks - that area is wet
Last night I finally got the jacking system hose out. I pass Pirteck on my way to work and had them make up some new ones. He felt that it was unlikely to be porous, but it had a manufactured date stamped on it of 2002, and over time heat, movement and pressure could allow fluid to leak out.
£120 pounds later and I have a nice new shiny hose 3.5m long rated at 350 bar / 5000PSI ! you could probably get it a bit cheaper but it was quick and convenient.
I have seen enough episodes of Wheeler Dealers to know that you turn the wheel left to right to get the power steering system to fill up, and there are a couple of bleed nipples on the lifting system.
Del
All done.
I could probably do it now in a couple of hours. To access the connections in the engine bay you need to remove the rear wheel and all 3 parts of the wheel arch liner. I spent hours trying to get the banjo bolt out from the engine bay - 2 mins from the wheel arch !
You need to;
Connect a hose to the nipple in the front boot, undo it and let the fluid bleed out. Then disconnect the hose. The will be fluid still seeping out so cover the area in rags.
Remove right hand side air box and coolant reservoir (move this to the side- I did not disconnect the pipes) you can then see offending hose and its route.
Remove rear wheel and liners which gives you access to the banjo bolt on the back of the lift control solenoid - you can see it from the engine bay ....
Disconnect and feed the hose along the length of the car to the front.
Refit the hose, making sure you follow the correct path behind the heat shields in the engine bay.
Start the car, give several turns of the wheel left to right just to make sure no bubbles in that system.
Operate the lift function a couple of times - nothing will happen, but it will start to pump the fluid. Connect the hose onto the bleed nipple again and open to let the air out. Then cycle the lift again, the air should be out and will now work. If not try to bleed the air out again.
the new hose is the black and red stripped one - the "wetness" on the fuel tank is ps fluid - it is nigh on impossible to tighten it from inside the engine bay - and it comes out under some pressure !!!
Most of the wheel arch screws I had to angle grind out, but they are only fitted to "u" clips, which are easy to replace. I always try to replace blots / screws with SS ones where possible.
I had to take the car off the ramp as taking the wheel off on a 4 post lift is hassle !
Del
I could probably do it now in a couple of hours. To access the connections in the engine bay you need to remove the rear wheel and all 3 parts of the wheel arch liner. I spent hours trying to get the banjo bolt out from the engine bay - 2 mins from the wheel arch !
You need to;
Connect a hose to the nipple in the front boot, undo it and let the fluid bleed out. Then disconnect the hose. The will be fluid still seeping out so cover the area in rags.
Remove right hand side air box and coolant reservoir (move this to the side- I did not disconnect the pipes) you can then see offending hose and its route.
Remove rear wheel and liners which gives you access to the banjo bolt on the back of the lift control solenoid - you can see it from the engine bay ....
Disconnect and feed the hose along the length of the car to the front.
Refit the hose, making sure you follow the correct path behind the heat shields in the engine bay.
Start the car, give several turns of the wheel left to right just to make sure no bubbles in that system.
Operate the lift function a couple of times - nothing will happen, but it will start to pump the fluid. Connect the hose onto the bleed nipple again and open to let the air out. Then cycle the lift again, the air should be out and will now work. If not try to bleed the air out again.
the new hose is the black and red stripped one - the "wetness" on the fuel tank is ps fluid - it is nigh on impossible to tighten it from inside the engine bay - and it comes out under some pressure !!!
Most of the wheel arch screws I had to angle grind out, but they are only fitted to "u" clips, which are easy to replace. I always try to replace blots / screws with SS ones where possible.
I had to take the car off the ramp as taking the wheel off on a 4 post lift is hassle !
Del
Gassing Station | Diablo/Murcielago/Aventador | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff