Full bathroom DIY refurb..

[MDMetal]

The decking is on hold as it's been pointed out I need to finish the bathroom or else.... So here we go! Standard mini house 2x2 room and I'm gutting it and starting from scratch, before..







and after some extensive stripping this weekend... (bath is going out tonight)







I'll add the running costs as I go, basic plan is a feature wall of faux split face behind the bath, led concealed light above the feature wall and under the bath panel, polished grey porcelain walls, concealed cistern and built in shelves, integrated mirror with Led surrounds. I'll be going with the taptile lighting control system. The floor is going to be vinyl tiles. projected cost is under £1500

[MDMetal]

Toilet: http://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/premier-bliss-s...
Sink: http://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/Bliss-Basin-Ped...
Sink Taps: http://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/Summit-Cloakroo...
Bath Taps: http://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/Summit-Bath-Sho...
Flooring: http://www.amtico.com/flooring/abstract/mirus-hemp...
Feature tiles: http://www.tilemountain.co.uk/p/yosemite-grey-spli...
Main Tiles: http://www.tilemountain.co.uk/p/doblo-light-grey-p...

[Simpo Two]

Presume you have pressurised hot water to run those taps?

I think grey, grey and grey is going to make for a cold grey room, but personal taste varies

[forest07]

My advice would be to cut down on floor cost and buy quality taps and sanitary items. There's some real rubbish stuff about.

[MDMetal]

forest07 said:

My advice would be to cut down on floor cost and buy quality taps and sanitary items. There's some real rubbish stuff about.

The taps seem pretty good all those bits and bobs have been sitting in the living room for awhile now, the thought was they're easier to replace later vs the floor which would be a right pain! The floor only comes to £150 though

[MonTheF1sh]

Having just bought a full bathroom from their my advice to you would be to check EVERYTHING with a fine tooth comb...I missed some cracks on both the top of the batch and the side panel and they weren't picked up until the fitter rolled up 2 weeks later.

[anonymous-user]

Put a bigger cistern in. I've got a concealed cistern and every dump needs at least 2 flushes. Top of my list is a bigger cistern or a modified valve.

[Simpo Two]

Take the opportunity to get rid of the stink pipe and ugly boxing, and fit an AAV just under bath rim level.

[MDMetal]

Simpo Two said:

Take the opportunity to get rid of the stink pipe and ugly boxing, and fit an AAV just under bath rim level.

Is that something you can do? I assumed it needed to go up to the loft out of the way?

[MDMetal]

MDMetal said:

Simpo Two said:

Take the opportunity to get rid of the stink pipe and ugly boxing, and fit an AAV just under bath rim level.

Is that something you can do? I assumed it needed to go up to the loft out of the way?

Yup seems you can! cool stuff

[MDMetal]

Small progress, removed the top of the soil pip and tidied the hole in the attic, also got the first hardiebacker board down.





I'm going to batton out the masonary walls and mount the boards to those as its a bit easier, need to get the electrics and pipes sorted as I do the boards as well.

Edited by MDMetal on Monday 25th April 09:24

[MDMetal]

Ok so first problem... I want to move these pipes for the washstand back into the studwork to create concealed pipes, the floorboard layout makes that look none trivial, anyone have any advice on the best way forward?

[MDMetal]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

The metal stud sits on a wooden stud that runs over the floorboards, however judging by the width of the other boards the stud wall sits on top of a board so there's no way to lift the board without removing the studs. Maybe I could cut a path from they're current location back into the studeork and just push them? I was hoping to lift the boards, cut the pipe, drill through the stud, resolder the pipes and make it neat

[MDMetal]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

Yup looks that way, the stud seems to sit about half way across the board, which no doubt continues into the room behind

[MDMetal]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

Sounds sensible! The board in front seems to extend I to the hallway but that should be easier, they're chipboard so I guess tongue and groove?

[MDMetal]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

yup Nothing to do but get the circular saw out tonight I guess

[MDMetal]

Success! I took a circular saw to it, cutting down the right depth and popped off the floor, should fit back securely although I may add some extra support. Pipes are now accessible and easily moved!

[MDMetal]

Got the chance at the weekend to make somemore progress, felt like a lot of work for not much but pleased with the results, the pipes are now all in the wall nice and neatly and well secured.

[MDMetal]

anonymous said:

[redacted]

Just a bit slow! First time doing these things so I went step by step to make sure everything was good and proper, also a bit of a pain making sure everything lines up just right but it's all done and secure now, quite happy with the results although the missus first question was "oh so I could have had a wall mounted tap if you were doing all this work?!" Grrrrrrr!

[MDMetal]

This weekends work was battoning out the window wall, I've got everything nice and neat and straight, the inside of the window box has been levelled out with some plasterboard, next stage is to get all the boards on the battons and round the window to make it all neat and secure. Starting to look like a room again!