Discussion
My shed hinges are screwed in so anyone wanting to break in just needs a pozi drive, I want to replace them with coach bolts (I think that is the correct word) which are totally smooth on the outside but held on by a nut on the inside.
I can't find appropriately sized bolts though, I ideally need M4x90mm, or M5 might work (20mm cladding, 55mm frame). I can't really make the holes on the hinges any bigger as this will weaken them so going for a bigger M isn't suitable.
Is it a bad idea to use cavity fixing bolts/hollow wall anchors to hang stuff off the walls? The cladding is 20mm thick which is strong enough for the hand tools I want to hang, but I'm thinking about water ingress etc.
Finally is the roof strong enough for me to climb on? Not even had the shed a year and ivy has come over the back fence and is now firmly attached to the first 4ft of the shed roof.
I can't find appropriately sized bolts though, I ideally need M4x90mm, or M5 might work (20mm cladding, 55mm frame). I can't really make the holes on the hinges any bigger as this will weaken them so going for a bigger M isn't suitable.
Is it a bad idea to use cavity fixing bolts/hollow wall anchors to hang stuff off the walls? The cladding is 20mm thick which is strong enough for the hand tools I want to hang, but I'm thinking about water ingress etc.
Finally is the roof strong enough for me to climb on? Not even had the shed a year and ivy has come over the back fence and is now firmly attached to the first 4ft of the shed roof.
How beefy is the door and frame? Could you fit hinge bolts? Or if bank vault levels of security aren't required what about clutch head screws? The only problem with coach bolts is the square flange under the head often stops them lying flush against what they're holding and they can look a bit naff.
schmunk said:
Cheers! wolfracesonic said:
The only problem with coach bolts is the square flange under the head often stops them lying flush against what they're holding and they can look a bit naff.
Thats a good point actually, why is the square flange there and what can I do about it? They look like they'd stick out past the hinge, allowing them to be easily pried out.
Depending on the shed, it could be worth strengthening both sides of the door frame with a pair of Birmingham bars on the inside.
wolfracesonic said:
what about clutch head screws?
SkinnyPete, try googling clutch head screws, because these only screw in and can't be screwed out. (At least, they're a complete ball ache to remove.)SkinnyPete said:
Thats a good point actually, why is the square flange there and what can I do about it? They look like they'd stick out past the hinge, allowing them to be easily pried out.
I think the square bit is there to stop the bolt spinning when you're tightening up the nut, like when installing hook and band hinges, where it slips into a square hole. Fastening timber to timber doesn't matter as it just buries itself in the material.
wolfracesonic said:
I think the square bit is there to stop the bolt spinning when you're tightening up the nut, like when installing hook and band hinges, where it slips into a square hole. Fastening timber to timber doesn't matter as it just buries itself in the material.
The square flange fits snugly into the square recess on the hinge as in the pic above (requires correct sized bolt for the hinge). It not only holds the bolt firmly in place so that you can tighten up the nut on the other end, but also means the rounded head of the bolt sits tight up against the face of the hinge (for security purposes).
I have just had my shed broken into despite having reinforced locks fitted. I recommend buying larger hinges and replacing the manufacturers originals. Use coach bolts with large washers on the inside. On the opposite side of the door use good quality hasps. My B&Q parts were just bent using the same screwdriver that was then used to lever the door.
Also, fit a door bar. I should have done this. Additionally, fit bars over any windows. As an additional measure chain your expensive items together. I should have chained everything to my lawn mower.
Finally remember, it's a wooden shed. If they really want to the burglars will just lever away the roof or any of the walls.
pp
Also, fit a door bar. I should have done this. Additionally, fit bars over any windows. As an additional measure chain your expensive items together. I should have chained everything to my lawn mower.
Finally remember, it's a wooden shed. If they really want to the burglars will just lever away the roof or any of the walls.
pp
wolfracesonic said:
I think the square bit is there to stop the bolt spinning when you're tightening up the nut, like when installing hook and band hinges, where it slips into a square hole. Fastening timber to timber doesn't matter as it just buries itself in the material.
Thanks, where can I get one of them?Knock yourself out: http://www.screwfix.com/c/security-ironmongery/gat...
I'm also thinking of getting a couple of these (single sided version) to use as 'high' and 'low' locks on the shed door:
https://www.youtube.com/embed/ObVoyGE44sY
Friends have one on their gate and it's a sturdy piece of kit.
I'm also thinking of getting a couple of these (single sided version) to use as 'high' and 'low' locks on the shed door:
https://www.youtube.com/embed/ObVoyGE44sY
Friends have one on their gate and it's a sturdy piece of kit.
Edited by sleepezy on Wednesday 31st May 11:36
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