A new interlocking timber garage?
Discussion
Looks like we may be moving house shortly, will need a garage and have the space, has anyone bought/built one of these or similar interlocking timber garages, single, double or triple?
Any advice on best buy, wall thickness (44 or 66mm) roof covering etc. Thinking the timber may look more rural and be better insulated than brick/block.
https://www.quick-garden.co.uk/garage-wooden-900x6...
Thanks for any advice
Any advice on best buy, wall thickness (44 or 66mm) roof covering etc. Thinking the timber may look more rural and be better insulated than brick/block.
https://www.quick-garden.co.uk/garage-wooden-900x6...
Thanks for any advice
We got a triple from Warwick Buildings a few years ago - very, very happy indeed with it. They were very happy to tickle the design about to accommodate the plot, and it was excellent value.
Once the base was done (by local groundworks guys), the garage itself turned up on the back of a wagon, and was pretty much assembled in a day by three guys, with two of 'em coming back for a second day just to do things like gutters and door hanging.
For the roof covering, we went with felt - on the basis that it'll need replacing in a few years, but I'll put metal profile on it to match the building next to it. Might well put some clear sections in at the same time.
As far as speed of assembly goes, this was 10.30am
Finished
Once the base was done (by local groundworks guys), the garage itself turned up on the back of a wagon, and was pretty much assembled in a day by three guys, with two of 'em coming back for a second day just to do things like gutters and door hanging.
For the roof covering, we went with felt - on the basis that it'll need replacing in a few years, but I'll put metal profile on it to match the building next to it. Might well put some clear sections in at the same time.
As far as speed of assembly goes, this was 10.30am
Finished
Edited by TooMany2cvs on Tuesday 11th July 08:45
No experience with that company or buying "off the shelf" but I am planning to build a office/workshop with the same style of walling soon, will be about double garage sized.
I'm going DIY, mainly due to the very odd shape I have to use, so will be buying the components and building it myself
http://www.molevalleyfarmers.com/mvf/store/product...
I'm going DIY, mainly due to the very odd shape I have to use, so will be buying the components and building it myself
http://www.molevalleyfarmers.com/mvf/store/product...
I built this garage extension from scratch - 175mm thick C35 raft with perimter toe and A142 mesh (2 post lift friendly).
Walls out of 100mm x 50mm studs and roof 225 x 75 purlins with 150 x 50 rafters faced with Tyvex and vertical battens. Western red cedar cladding and a Welsh slate roof.
I used tanalised log board on the back elevation as the red cedar is very expensive.
Made it up as I went along. I designed the roof 'open' so I could stack two cars on the lift
Much better from a condensation point of view in winter
Walls out of 100mm x 50mm studs and roof 225 x 75 purlins with 150 x 50 rafters faced with Tyvex and vertical battens. Western red cedar cladding and a Welsh slate roof.
I used tanalised log board on the back elevation as the red cedar is very expensive.
Made it up as I went along. I designed the roof 'open' so I could stack two cars on the lift
Much better from a condensation point of view in winter
Lotobear said:
I built this garage extension from scratch - 175mm thick C35 raft with perimter toe and A142 mesh (2 post lift friendly).
Walls out of 100mm x 50mm studs and roof 225 x 75 purlins with 150 x 50 rafters faced with Tyvex and vertical battens. Western red cedar cladding and a Welsh slate roof.
I used tanalised log board on the back elevation as the red cedar is very expensive.
Made it up as I went along. I designed the roof 'open' so I could stack two cars on the lift
Much better from a condensation point of view in winter
That's really quite pretty, either the WRC cladding, slate or grey woodwork.Walls out of 100mm x 50mm studs and roof 225 x 75 purlins with 150 x 50 rafters faced with Tyvex and vertical battens. Western red cedar cladding and a Welsh slate roof.
I used tanalised log board on the back elevation as the red cedar is very expensive.
Made it up as I went along. I designed the roof 'open' so I could stack two cars on the lift
Much better from a condensation point of view in winter
Is the cladding T&G or overlap?
May I ask roughly how much it cost in materials.
I built a double 13 year ago, block, rendered, timber roof with Planwell steel over but wanted something more attractive this time as it'll be more visible.
It'll be West Coast Scotland so worried about weather too.
The cladding is rebated, overlap. It was quite expensive, in fact it cost more than the slate roof but, hey, a man cave has to look good as well.
Used Lindab galvanised gutters - not that much more than plastic unless yuo get into lots of bends but they look nice and are good to fit
It wasn't a cheap way to build a garage - around 12k all in, much more if I had paid for all of the labour
This is Cumbria so not too far removed climate wise from where you are (hence the overhanging eaves and barge)
Used Lindab galvanised gutters - not that much more than plastic unless yuo get into lots of bends but they look nice and are good to fit
It wasn't a cheap way to build a garage - around 12k all in, much more if I had paid for all of the labour
This is Cumbria so not too far removed climate wise from where you are (hence the overhanging eaves and barge)
Skyedriver said:
Lotobear said:
I built this garage extension from scratch - 175mm thick C35 raft with perimter toe and A142 mesh (2 post lift friendly).
Walls out of 100mm x 50mm studs and roof 225 x 75 purlins with 150 x 50 rafters faced with Tyvex and vertical battens. Western red cedar cladding and a Welsh slate roof.
I used tanalised log board on the back elevation as the red cedar is very expensive.
Made it up as I went along. I designed the roof 'open' so I could stack two cars on the lift
Much better from a condensation point of view in winter
That's really quite pretty, either the WRC cladding, slate or grey woodwork.Walls out of 100mm x 50mm studs and roof 225 x 75 purlins with 150 x 50 rafters faced with Tyvex and vertical battens. Western red cedar cladding and a Welsh slate roof.
I used tanalised log board on the back elevation as the red cedar is very expensive.
Made it up as I went along. I designed the roof 'open' so I could stack two cars on the lift
Much better from a condensation point of view in winter
Is the cladding T&G or overlap?
May I ask roughly how much it cost in materials.
I built a double 13 year ago, block, rendered, timber roof with Planwell steel over but wanted something more attractive this time as it'll be more visible.
It'll be West Coast Scotland so worried about weather too.
blade7 said:
TooMany2cvs said:
blade7 said:
The classic car insurers I use want block or brick built, same with my bike insurers.
Use a different insurer, then.TooMany2cvs said:
blade7 said:
TooMany2cvs said:
blade7 said:
The classic car insurers I use want block or brick built, same with my bike insurers.
Use a different insurer, then.We purchased a new timber garage from these people www.meritgardenproducts.co.uk
Excellent bit of kit, although on ours the roof covering was felt which lasted about six years. The roof bracing was not up to cladding with slate tiles which was a pity. Go for the heavy timber products and we used a strainer preservative for ease of maintenance and ascetics.
Excellent bit of kit, although on ours the roof covering was felt which lasted about six years. The roof bracing was not up to cladding with slate tiles which was a pity. Go for the heavy timber products and we used a strainer preservative for ease of maintenance and ascetics.
Tuin do the sort of thing you're after at reasonable cost https://www.tuin.co.uk/Log-Garages.html
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