Under Floor Heating
Discussion
Chaps
We are about to re-do the ground floor of our 30s house and fit UFH. The floor is a mixture of mostly suspended timber, with 2 sections of concrete. I have nfi what is under the concrete in terms of insulation of how deep it is etc.
On the suspended timber bits, I intend to batten between joists then either
- celotex with pipes clipped, dry screed; or
- grooved celotex . equivalent with pipes laid direct into the insulation
either option I will fit a hardiefloor cement board over the top to give it some rigidity, thermal mass and heat distribution.
Any views on the above 2 options?
We are about to re-do the ground floor of our 30s house and fit UFH. The floor is a mixture of mostly suspended timber, with 2 sections of concrete. I have nfi what is under the concrete in terms of insulation of how deep it is etc.
On the suspended timber bits, I intend to batten between joists then either
- celotex with pipes clipped, dry screed; or
- grooved celotex . equivalent with pipes laid direct into the insulation
either option I will fit a hardiefloor cement board over the top to give it some rigidity, thermal mass and heat distribution.
Any views on the above 2 options?
Cactussed said:
Chaps
On the suspended timber bits, I intend to batten between joists then either
- celotex with pipes clipped, dry screed; or
- grooved celotex . equivalent with pipes laid direct into the insulation
either option I will fit a hardiefloor cement board over the top to give it some rigidity, thermal mass and heat distribution.
Any views on the above 2 options?
Did some reading up on this a while ago as on my todo list. How deep are the joists? As you may also need more insulation underneath the joists to make it thick enough.On the suspended timber bits, I intend to batten between joists then either
- celotex with pipes clipped, dry screed; or
- grooved celotex . equivalent with pipes laid direct into the insulation
either option I will fit a hardiefloor cement board over the top to give it some rigidity, thermal mass and heat distribution.
Any views on the above 2 options?
The best way seemed to be to lay the pipes on PIR insulation between the joists with a 25mm gap, and then fill that 25mm with lightweight (different sites say 10:1 sand/cement mix or 8:1) screed to cover the pipes up for thermal mass/stop pipe noise- seems a better idea than cement board to me. Otherwise those metal tray things.
hyphen said:
Did some reading up on this a while ago as on my todo list. How deep are the joists? As you may also need more insulation underneath the joists to make it thick enough.
The best way seemed to be to lay the pipes on PIR insulation between the joists with a 25mm gap, and then fill that 25mm with lightweight (different sites say 10:1 sand/cement mix or 8:1) screed to cover the pipes up for thermal mass/stop pipe noise- seems a better idea than cement board to me. Otherwise those metal tray things.
We used the Aluminium trays on the 1st floor of our house with celotex insulation below that. Works a treat.The best way seemed to be to lay the pipes on PIR insulation between the joists with a 25mm gap, and then fill that 25mm with lightweight (different sites say 10:1 sand/cement mix or 8:1) screed to cover the pipes up for thermal mass/stop pipe noise- seems a better idea than cement board to me. Otherwise those metal tray things.
Well worth doing, no more radiators and better distribution of heat!!!
Cactussed said:
You still need a finish over the joists before the final covering. Cement board seems a better option for thermal reasons than typical chipboard.
I've considered the aluminium plates but had heard they can creak a bit with thermal expansion?
Really. No issues here...I've considered the aluminium plates but had heard they can creak a bit with thermal expansion?
Mine do not sit tightly in the run of the ally plates there is some give for movement
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