DIY A/C refill
Discussion
I decided to top up my car using this kit :-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283067626635
Appeared to work fine. However now when I switch the A/C there is a vibrating noise for about 3 seconds, looking under the bonnet the A/C pipes vibrate when first switching it on, rest of the day and any subsequent restarts it's fine.
Any ideas? Poor quality gauge so now it's overfilled?
I've contacted the seller who said they've never had problems, also contacted the manufacturer who haven't even bothered to reply!
TIA
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283067626635
Appeared to work fine. However now when I switch the A/C there is a vibrating noise for about 3 seconds, looking under the bonnet the A/C pipes vibrate when first switching it on, rest of the day and any subsequent restarts it's fine.
Any ideas? Poor quality gauge so now it's overfilled?
I've contacted the seller who said they've never had problems, also contacted the manufacturer who haven't even bothered to reply!
TIA
paintman said:
£69.95.
How much would a proper job using proper kit have cost?
ETA Quick google suggests from £60ish is the going rate local to me (Leicester)
Same cost as around me (Sussex). How much would a proper job using proper kit have cost?
ETA Quick google suggests from £60ish is the going rate local to me (Leicester)
Edited by paintman on Friday 2nd July 20:11
Bit odd to buy this , how can you vacuum the gas and test pressure and put in new gas in this one small bottle? The machines are huge!
CarCrazyDad said:
paintman said:
£69.95.
How much would a proper job using proper kit have cost?
ETA Quick google suggests from £60ish is the going rate local to me (Leicester)
Same cost as around me (Sussex). How much would a proper job using proper kit have cost?
ETA Quick google suggests from £60ish is the going rate local to me (Leicester)
Edited by paintman on Friday 2nd July 20:11
Bit odd to buy this , how can you vacuum the gas and test pressure and put in new gas in this one small bottle? The machines are huge!
They are only designed to top up, not regas.
If there was any air in the system you still need to have it done properly.
All that does is put gas in until it has no more pressure to put in, it does not measure the correct weight of gas for your system, all of which are different.
To regas as above you need to fully evacuate the system, pressure test it & then gas with the correct amount of R134, that does none of the above, you have likely wasted your money & still need to get it done properly for peace of mind.
If there is any water vapour in there it will likely shorten the life of the compressor, drier, evaporator & condenser rather than had it been done properly.
If there was any air in the system you still need to have it done properly.
All that does is put gas in until it has no more pressure to put in, it does not measure the correct weight of gas for your system, all of which are different.
To regas as above you need to fully evacuate the system, pressure test it & then gas with the correct amount of R134, that does none of the above, you have likely wasted your money & still need to get it done properly for peace of mind.
If there is any water vapour in there it will likely shorten the life of the compressor, drier, evaporator & condenser rather than had it been done properly.
Edited by E-bmw on Saturday 3rd July 08:38
gazza285 said:
Evanivitch said:
Don't do it yourself. R134a is 1,430 times more potent a greenhouse has than CO2.
Which would explain why it has been banned from use in cars from ten years ago.Are you confusing it with R12? Its GWP is 2,000.
ETA You're right. Banned from new type approval in cars 2011, and from cars for sale 2017. It's still legal for many other uses.
Edited by Evanivitch on Saturday 3rd July 16:59
paintman said:
£69.95.
How much would a proper job using proper kit have cost?
ETA Quick google suggests from £60ish is the going rate local to me (Leicester)
Everywhere around here was quoting £99, + a wait & as my wife uses the car daily booking in is a PITA. You get £10 off for returning the bottle.How much would a proper job using proper kit have cost?
ETA Quick google suggests from £60ish is the going rate local to me (Leicester)
Edited by paintman on Friday 2nd July 20:11
Lesson learned though, next time it will have to go in for the day. The other PITA is the low pressure connection is behind the wheel arch liner, the so called pro's I've spoken to say there is no need to use both connections (in other words, can't be arsed to take liner off), why does the machine have two hoses then?!!
Dave_ST220 said:
Everywhere around here was quoting £99, + a wait & as my wife uses the car daily booking in is a PITA. You get £10 off for returning the bottle.
Lesson learned though, next time it will have to go in for the day. The other PITA is the low pressure connection is behind the wheel arch liner, the so called pro's I've spoken to say there is no need to use both connections (in other words, can't be arsed to take liner off), why does the machine have two hoses then?!!
What?Lesson learned though, next time it will have to go in for the day. The other PITA is the low pressure connection is behind the wheel arch liner, the so called pro's I've spoken to say there is no need to use both connections (in other words, can't be arsed to take liner off), why does the machine have two hoses then?!!
Most of these machines are fully automated and likey wouldn't run without sensing pressure /vacuum on both lines before filling
Dave_ST220 said:
Everywhere around here was quoting £99, + a wait & as my wife uses the car daily booking in is a PITA. You get £10 off for returning the bottle.
Lesson learned though, next time it will have to go in for the day. The other PITA is the low pressure connection is behind the wheel arch liner, the so called pro's I've spoken to say there is no need to use both connections (in other words, can't be arsed to take liner off), why does the machine have two hoses then?!!
If the engine is off, the machines can pump the refrigerant through the high pressure side. The machines evacuate the system and then charge by weight (they have a scale built into them). This is why he does not need to charge using the suction side. If you're going to do any diagnoses, you're going to need connections on both sides.Lesson learned though, next time it will have to go in for the day. The other PITA is the low pressure connection is behind the wheel arch liner, the so called pro's I've spoken to say there is no need to use both connections (in other words, can't be arsed to take liner off), why does the machine have two hoses then?!!
If you really want to do it yourself, and have several cars, the best way of saving money is to get a vacuum pump and a set of gauges.
Taking your car to the garage for a top up starts to get expensive and painful when there is something wrong, and usually there is. A leak tight system won’t leak gas, if there is no gas, something is broken.
If you vacuum the system, and it holds vacuum over (say) night, then there is nothing wrong with it. Most of the time you will hear hissing, and realise there is a stone though the condenser or similar.
Once you’ve got the vacuum kit, it is a short road to getting a nitrogen cylinder for pressure testing and a R134 cylinder + scales for loading the stuff….
Taking your car to the garage for a top up starts to get expensive and painful when there is something wrong, and usually there is. A leak tight system won’t leak gas, if there is no gas, something is broken.
If you vacuum the system, and it holds vacuum over (say) night, then there is nothing wrong with it. Most of the time you will hear hissing, and realise there is a stone though the condenser or similar.
Once you’ve got the vacuum kit, it is a short road to getting a nitrogen cylinder for pressure testing and a R134 cylinder + scales for loading the stuff….
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