1974 2500TC distributor

[Stevo302]

Hi, is there any way of checking IF i have the right one? Its been playing up, i think.

Thanks.

[//j17]

Not sure the exact model - but any isues are likely down to age/wear so even if it is the correct one that doesn't mean everything's working as it was designed to.

1. What's the issue you're having?
2. Were things fine before and this has just started (in which case what did you change ), or is this a new car?

[Hammer67]

When I was a Triumph owner this was the go to place for 2000/2500 stuff:

https://www.chriswitor.com/index.php

[tapkaJohnD]

As //j17 says, a 'playing up' distributor on these extremely basic engines won't be due to the wrong model, but to other more basic issues like wear, poor timing, faulty capacitor, gap incorrectly set. Correct all those before you condemn the dizzie!
John

[Stevo302]

Thanks for the answers so far.

The car has been stuttering fairly bad, tried timing it. Ive just sent the carbs off for an overhaul.
Engine number is MM36103HE, think its a 1974 engine. (Not the original engine to the car, this was changed before i bought it.
Can you actually service the dizzy? ie take it out, clean it etc....

Thanks.

[//j17]

Stevo302 said:

Can you actually service the dizzy? ie take it out, clean it etc....

Yes - but there's really not too much going on in there to service.

1. Buy/fit a general ignition service kit (dizzy cap/quality 'red' rotor arm/plug leads/plugs/condensor) - they are service parts and random, invisible issues with any of them can cause issues.
2. Don't bin the old one but chuck them in the boot as spares.
3. With the dizzy cap off grab the rotor arm and give it a wiggle. In theory there should be no side-to-side movement of the shaft in any direction but after 40 years service they can wear giving random timing.
4. Grab the rotor arm again but this time rotate it. It should only go a handfull of degrees and only one way and there should be resistance when it turns/should snap back when released. If it does the mechancial advance should be generally working.
5. You should have a vacuum advance so pull the pipe off at the carb end and give it a suck while watching/resting a finger on the vacuum advance mechanisum inside the car. It will taste horrible but you should be able to hear/see/feel a tiny amount of movement when you suck/release. If you can't the vacuum bladder may have popped - replacement vacuum units are available and an easy fit.

Personally I wouldn't go much further than that, certainly not until you've got the carbs back as they are much more prone to wear issues than the dizzy.

Also check/ideally replace the "Y" pipes that go from the rocker cover down to each carb. Tiny splits in these that open and close as the engine vibrates are great for randomly letting extra air in engine-side of the carbs, so weakening the mixture, then closing it so setting it back to correct, then...

[jeremyc]

Distributor Doctor is the place for everything to do with .... errr .... distributors.

[Stevo302]

Thanks for all the help.