MGB Roadster repaint
Discussion
Evening everyone.
I bought my old 1978 MGB Roadster back last weekend after 15 years. Mechanically it seems to be fine, but since I sold the car 15 years ago, the bodywork seems to have suffered, with dull paint, rust and chipped paint. I'm thinking of getting it resprayed.
I have no idea how much it would cost, Has anyone had their car done recently?
Any good bodyshops in West Berkshire?
Many thanks in advance.
Philip
I bought my old 1978 MGB Roadster back last weekend after 15 years. Mechanically it seems to be fine, but since I sold the car 15 years ago, the bodywork seems to have suffered, with dull paint, rust and chipped paint. I'm thinking of getting it resprayed.
I have no idea how much it would cost, Has anyone had their car done recently?
Any good bodyshops in West Berkshire?
Many thanks in advance.
Philip
too many varibles
how much rust ? want the rust metal finished or patched up with filler?
all trims off and rubbers replaced or mask it up ?
you will always hear from someone whos mate did it for £500 in a barn , all the way up to 10k for mint inside and out
best go around some local places and ask to see thier work and get some ideas , many bodyshops wont want to work on old cars like that, its easier to do small jobs on moderns
how much rust ? want the rust metal finished or patched up with filler?
all trims off and rubbers replaced or mask it up ?
you will always hear from someone whos mate did it for £500 in a barn , all the way up to 10k for mint inside and out
best go around some local places and ask to see thier work and get some ideas , many bodyshops wont want to work on old cars like that, its easier to do small jobs on moderns
Having repainted a lot of mgs over the years a few (free) benefits of my experience.
I highly doubt the paintwork has deteriorated without at least some corrosion, in some cases along the bead on the top of the rear wing you may be lucky and it could just be surface rust from water creeping under the paint, if it's got any bubbling around the headlights though, or door bottoms, sills or lower back wings/rear arches then it's come through from behind. In this case you are looking at panel replacement/repair and it's resto territory, albeit possibly a nice small one. If bodywork is needed that's one thing. But you asked about paint.
Whether you go for a flash over (cheap) or a good job then you need to strip the car before it's painted yourself, in the case of the flash over the back street paint shop will just mask off door handles, lights, glass and rubbers and the finish will be rubbish, the paint will lift around those points in no time, if you strip it to a near bare shell though they can easily paint to panel edges and it will be much better. If you are taking it somewhere better you don't want to be paying their labour charge for an apprentice to be stripping your car down, save yourself money and the paint shop will be happier too.
Cost wise, the only way you will see £500 these days is if it's a really good friend doing you a favour not a guvvy, or you do it yourself, figure circa £1-200 in paint and materials minimum to do a relatively easy job not going down in to the cockpit, engine bay or boot or considering the floor pan. Paint materials will also heavily influence costs and finish, there's a world of difference between a car painted in at least a top coat of cellulose for an authentic finish and a cheap two pack job, the change to water based paint systems is another reason that many modern shops won't touch classics, although finish aside there is no real reason why you can't paint a classic in water based paint, but in my experience it is more successful on met finishes than solids as just like 2 pack it doesn't look right on a solid paint classic British car. I will say though, I'm a bit picky and many people on here will have super shiny 2 pack finishes and love them.
I highly doubt the paintwork has deteriorated without at least some corrosion, in some cases along the bead on the top of the rear wing you may be lucky and it could just be surface rust from water creeping under the paint, if it's got any bubbling around the headlights though, or door bottoms, sills or lower back wings/rear arches then it's come through from behind. In this case you are looking at panel replacement/repair and it's resto territory, albeit possibly a nice small one. If bodywork is needed that's one thing. But you asked about paint.
Whether you go for a flash over (cheap) or a good job then you need to strip the car before it's painted yourself, in the case of the flash over the back street paint shop will just mask off door handles, lights, glass and rubbers and the finish will be rubbish, the paint will lift around those points in no time, if you strip it to a near bare shell though they can easily paint to panel edges and it will be much better. If you are taking it somewhere better you don't want to be paying their labour charge for an apprentice to be stripping your car down, save yourself money and the paint shop will be happier too.
Cost wise, the only way you will see £500 these days is if it's a really good friend doing you a favour not a guvvy, or you do it yourself, figure circa £1-200 in paint and materials minimum to do a relatively easy job not going down in to the cockpit, engine bay or boot or considering the floor pan. Paint materials will also heavily influence costs and finish, there's a world of difference between a car painted in at least a top coat of cellulose for an authentic finish and a cheap two pack job, the change to water based paint systems is another reason that many modern shops won't touch classics, although finish aside there is no real reason why you can't paint a classic in water based paint, but in my experience it is more successful on met finishes than solids as just like 2 pack it doesn't look right on a solid paint classic British car. I will say though, I'm a bit picky and many people on here will have super shiny 2 pack finishes and love them.
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