Dodge / Mopar / Stellantis fuse box expansion

[Windy Miller]

So, having overcome all the issues with the active exhaust vales and wiring thereto on a 6 month old Challenger Jailbreak, the next task is to tidy up the wiring from;



To something altogether more professional. The interim solution is that, but I really want to get away from having wires coming out the front of the fuse box, when they should really come out the back.

As none of the spare fuse or relay slots are populated with wiring / sockets, then these will have to be fitted. A number of formats exist. These are crimps like;



Which will accept a mini blade fuse on one end and a wire on the other. Sounds easy, but they also need to "click into" the fuse box, so need to be dimensionally correct and have things like barbs in the right places so they stay in place.

Anyone got any steer on the right crimps for the job?

Ideally, if going to the trouble of lifting the fuse box, I might as well populate all the spare slots and bring wires out to an accessible position, in case I ever feel the need to use them - Not sure on what..... That being the case, there is a case to populate 3 different types of slots;

1. the mini blade fuse slots, with a mix of a: permanent live, ignition live and fuel pump live (engine running)
2. J case fuse slots
3. Automotive relay slots

Populating them all is probably a bit OTT, but I expect lifting the fuse box is a minor PITA, so when its out, it might as well get a decent amount of population done.

I have seen a post on a US thread where someone offered to post the details of the crimps if requested, but that was never followed up on.

I could try sending for various types, but won't know till I try to fit them if they are correct. As long as some of them are right, I will be OK, but thought I might ask first....

Cheers

Windy

[Windy Miller]

So, I have determined that fuse box (power distribution centre) is made by Yazaki - Part no 7154-0151-30. The Yazaki website has an extraordinary amount of technical data and drawings for components, including multiple types of fuse box terminals. What it doesn't have is a drawing for 7154-0151-30, presumably as its a "special" for Stellantis. This is a shame, as it would confirm the exact terminal numbers....

Whats not clear is if the Yazaki terminals use a common mounting system, which you imagine they might. Bu assumption is a dangerous thing....

Any advice here, before I try and get any steer from Yazaki?

Whats also not clear is if different manufacturers use different dimensions / mounting arrangements, or if every single fuse box in the known universe uses a similar system. Again, any steer gratefully received....

[donkmeister]

I had the same issue with various cars; there really doesn't seem to be anyone doing it "properly" so the online advice simply isn't there. I guess most people don't care about having add-a-fuse spaghetti. If it helps, yours looks ok to me.

What I have done in the past (not with a Mopar, mind) is to buy a used fusebox from an online breakers. I ensure it has enough cable coming out of the back (where they chopped it out of the old car) that I can crimp on to that. I then remove the terminals from the donor fusebox and insert them into my fusebox.

The alternative is to try and pop out some of your existing terminals to assess which type.

Make sure you get the correct crimping tool (or jaws for your current crimping tool) as well.

[Windy Miller]

Mine's is actually a little bit tidier than that now, as where the power supply was taken from in the above pic was a permanant live that was draining the battery in a few days (dealer installed.....), so I have now dispensed with this arrangement and have something that actually works. But still comes out under the lid. Next interim stage might be to see if a wire will poke out a spare cavity so that it least it comes out of the back of the fuse box to save surface spaghetti. But the real solution will be to populate all spare ways and take pigtails out the back to a location where they can be readily picked up and connected to if required. That way, the fuse box only has to be lifted once.

Yes, have heard of the get a box from a breakers route. Just that boxes from breakers tend to be going for a lot more than a few crimp terminals! But may have to be the way ahead for some certainty.

Cheers

[Windy Miller]

Have sent for a few different terminals from a '12V specialist' supplier to see if any of them fit. Might, might not. I had the rear fuse box partially lifted the other week and its not that bad to get to the back of. If the terminals I get are not right, its no big shakes.

[Windy Miller]

Well, that's the rear fuse box tidy up done. The terminals I got were not 100% ideal, as they will only take mini fuses with the sticky out prongs, and not the low profile micro fuses with the blades on the edge. But hey, it works, and an awful lot tidier than it can from the importer! No Halfords "Add a fuse" coming out the lid anymore. When in there, I took the opportunity to run in another 5 extra spare circuits from a bus that is live when in Run. 1 circuit now in use for an accessory, and 4 spares, laid up in the spare wheel well to be more easily picked up if required. On top of that, the Active Exhaust system is working 100% with no extra wires or fault codes!

The only real pain in the bahookie was getting the back cover back onto the fuse box. What a nightmare, especially with the 6 extra outgoing circuits. How on earth you could ever populate that box to 100% is beyond me, as even getting all the wires back in, and the back clipped back on was a real pain. And thats with only about 50 - 60% of the fuse and relay cavities populated. But lots of perseverance, and its done, hopefully never to be opened up again!