difference between HSV gts and gts r?
Discussion
marcevo1
UK spec HSV GTS (2000-2001) (actually registered as a GTS-UK) is a HSV Clubsport R8 in Oz
UK spec HSV GTS-R (2000-2001) (actually registered as a GTSR-UK) is a HSV GTS 300 in Oz
If you look up the specs on the Oz cars you will find the differences.
The UK variants (imported 2000 to 2001 but regisred one year later than build date) are exactly the same as the Oz cars identified, except ALL cars that came in to the UK had the Premium brake kit (standard of the HSV GTS 300)
There are a bunch of iron Block (non-LS1) 308 V8s that were overbored to 5.7 350ci but they were pre-1999.
Any more info reequired, then e-mail me.
Cheers
Eric
UK spec HSV GTS (2000-2001) (actually registered as a GTS-UK) is a HSV Clubsport R8 in Oz
UK spec HSV GTS-R (2000-2001) (actually registered as a GTSR-UK) is a HSV GTS 300 in Oz
If you look up the specs on the Oz cars you will find the differences.
The UK variants (imported 2000 to 2001 but regisred one year later than build date) are exactly the same as the Oz cars identified, except ALL cars that came in to the UK had the Premium brake kit (standard of the HSV GTS 300)
There are a bunch of iron Block (non-LS1) 308 V8s that were overbored to 5.7 350ci but they were pre-1999.
Any more info reequired, then e-mail me.
Cheers
Eric
I don't have the GTS-R and they are worlds apart from the GTS, lots of styling differences on trim to include a mix of red & black leather seats etc, better stereo, better rear suspension set up as Greg pointed out, LS6 heads not to mention another 60 brake, the real GTS in Oz too I think spec wise. If it's not modified then a nicer car to own and half the numbers imported over the GTS. This info might not be factually accurate but I think you get my drift.
Mind you if you wanna modify a GTS....
Mind you if you wanna modify a GTS....
dont think i can live with the red / black seats...
a bit too loud for me.
really want a proper street sleeper - both inside and out.
looking at a uk spec gts - then modding. dont know if the normally aspirated route is the way to go or supercharger? any comments?
does anyone know anything about no26 uk build? its for sale up north but seems quite expensive....
a bit too loud for me.
really want a proper street sleeper - both inside and out.
looking at a uk spec gts - then modding. dont know if the normally aspirated route is the way to go or supercharger? any comments?
does anyone know anything about no26 uk build? its for sale up north but seems quite expensive....
gregwatson said:
Actually there are a few differences I believe... including rear suspension
The revised suspension is on a GTS 300 versus Clubsport R8 feature (i.e. GTS-R UK versus GTS-UK).
When the cars came into the UK, only the badging (and brakes on the Clubsport R8's) were changed, i.e the GTS 300's all had Premium brakes, the R8's didn't.
Don't get confused between GTS (oz) and GTS (UK). A GTS-UK is a Clubsport.
Rod Clausen did not have any of the VT2 or VX cars modified when he brought them in to the UK.
The R8's brakes were an optional extra in Oz.
Cheers
Eric
marcevo1, if you can find a VX series GTS 300 (GTS-R UK) then they don't have the Red and Black leather, they are all a more tasteful? sombre? dark grey.
Only probem is there are only 2 more in the UK apart from mine.
If you get a GTS-UK (Clubsport R8) they are all grey.
If you are going to mod a 2000 GTS my I recc you spend under £3k and fit up rated brakes, then fit new headers with a bespoke exhaust of choice matched with a r/road tune and you will have much better sounding car that breathes better and stops so, so much better. Anything else can be expensive; I would have now preferred to have done more to the engine minus a supercharger with hindsight. Best thing I can say is set a STRICT budget on mods, rip shifters, coil over kits, cold air induction could be seen as pre requisites to but you have to stop somewhere, I wish I had, sorry NO I don't.
marcvo1,
Look up GTS 300 and Clubsport R8 on Oz websites this will list differences.
However the main difference between the cars is:
1) LS1 at 250/255 KW is replaced by a C4B at 300KW.
2) Hydratrak 3.91 diff as opposed to the 3.73 BTW diff
That is the reason that drove me to a GTS 300 (GTS-R).
But a naturally aspirated Clubsport R8 can get to near 300KW without much trouble/expense.
The VT2 GTS-R's struggled to make the 300KW, reputedly! (had the LS1 inlet manifold on them), the VX's do make 300KW (I can vouch for that on dyno runs). The VX's all had LS6 manifolds fitted.
Note: Heads are not LS6, they are CNC ported specials made for the C4B prior to the release of the LS6 motor.
They don't make the peak flow rate of an LS6 head, but they give a better flow than a LS1 head and give high flow rates for lower valve lift, and a flatter/more constant flow response.
C4B main differences over a LS1 are:
Heads as explained above.
Stainless steel valves (2.02" inlet and 1.57" exhaust - 0.02" larger than stock LS1)
Longer cam duration - LS1 is approx 197 deg, C4B is 205 deg, slightly higer lift, 0.58" increased to approx 0.6"...I think! some of the LS1.com.au boys could probably provide better details.
K-motion tool steel springs - (change them immediately as there faluire rate is high).
Titanium valve retainers
78mm throttle body instead of 75mm stock LS1
Larger diameter 4-1 headers and revised exhaust
And the engine runs MAF-less (speed density mode)
If you have any specific questions on the differences give me a shout.
Are you only looking at 2000 GTS-UKs?
Cheers
Eric
Look up GTS 300 and Clubsport R8 on Oz websites this will list differences.
However the main difference between the cars is:
1) LS1 at 250/255 KW is replaced by a C4B at 300KW.
2) Hydratrak 3.91 diff as opposed to the 3.73 BTW diff
That is the reason that drove me to a GTS 300 (GTS-R).
But a naturally aspirated Clubsport R8 can get to near 300KW without much trouble/expense.
The VT2 GTS-R's struggled to make the 300KW, reputedly! (had the LS1 inlet manifold on them), the VX's do make 300KW (I can vouch for that on dyno runs). The VX's all had LS6 manifolds fitted.
Note: Heads are not LS6, they are CNC ported specials made for the C4B prior to the release of the LS6 motor.
They don't make the peak flow rate of an LS6 head, but they give a better flow than a LS1 head and give high flow rates for lower valve lift, and a flatter/more constant flow response.
C4B main differences over a LS1 are:
Heads as explained above.
Stainless steel valves (2.02" inlet and 1.57" exhaust - 0.02" larger than stock LS1)
Longer cam duration - LS1 is approx 197 deg, C4B is 205 deg, slightly higer lift, 0.58" increased to approx 0.6"...I think! some of the LS1.com.au boys could probably provide better details.
K-motion tool steel springs - (change them immediately as there faluire rate is high).
Titanium valve retainers
78mm throttle body instead of 75mm stock LS1
Larger diameter 4-1 headers and revised exhaust
And the engine runs MAF-less (speed density mode)
If you have any specific questions on the differences give me a shout.
Are you only looking at 2000 GTS-UKs?
Cheers
Eric
looking at all posibilities including personal import form oz at the moment.
think the header, exhaust and r/road looks best (Blueflame are just up the road and do custom exhausts for £500)
are the performance brakes really neccesary on a road car? of is it just unsprung weight?
the car will never be tracked (maybe drifted? on a wet track?) so massive stoppers arent priority i would have thought?
think the header, exhaust and r/road looks best (Blueflame are just up the road and do custom exhausts for £500)
are the performance brakes really neccesary on a road car? of is it just unsprung weight?
the car will never be tracked (maybe drifted? on a wet track?) so massive stoppers arent priority i would have thought?
Premium brake kit as fitted is ok.....but you can't get enough anchors for these motors.
They go quite quick and you don't really realise how quick until you need to haul-up the 1700kilos of metal.
Lots of guys including Will have gone for tne AP racing anchors and they deem to perform a lot better. I've stuck with the Standard anchors and just steer harder!
I also have shares in Ferodo!
They go quite quick and you don't really realise how quick until you need to haul-up the 1700kilos of metal.
Lots of guys including Will have gone for tne AP racing anchors and they deem to perform a lot better. I've stuck with the Standard anchors and just steer harder!
I also have shares in Ferodo!
VT II GTS 300 (UK GTS-R)
www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_content.research_specs?vehicle_code=20000404.14:49:05
VT II R8 (UK GTS)
www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_content.research_specs?vehicle_code=19990714.10:09:07
VX GTS (300kw)
www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_content.research_specs?vehicle_code=20000926.10:21:02
Links will need to cut and paste! If you want to see Australian Cars for sale in Australia then try this website. www.carsales.com.au
motomk
>> Edited by motomk on Tuesday 7th February 00:30
www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_content.research_specs?vehicle_code=20000404.14:49:05
VT II R8 (UK GTS)
www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_content.research_specs?vehicle_code=19990714.10:09:07
VX GTS (300kw)
www.carsales.com.au/pls/carsales/!cs_content.research_specs?vehicle_code=20000926.10:21:02
Links will need to cut and paste! If you want to see Australian Cars for sale in Australia then try this website. www.carsales.com.au
motomk
>> Edited by motomk on Tuesday 7th February 00:30
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