Hypergrounding
Discussion
Does anyone know anything about hypergrounding? There's a discussion on the Alpina forum about these hyperground kits which basically provide critical components in the car, engine etc with much higher quality connections to the battery ground (if I understand the concept). It's supposed to provide better idling, sometimes higher torque etc. Looks like a couple of members have tried it and reported clear improvements...?
Sounds like slick 50 & go faster stripes to me!
Thinking it through logically, the only thing you are potentially going to gain from a lower impedance electrical circuit is a spark at slightly higher voltage. Given that the spark is created at very high voltage levels I cant see it making any real benefit. Probably changing / cleaning / gaping your plugs every so often would yield a better result?
As a secondary advantage, you would have brighter headlights, better engine cranking etc.
Thinking it through logically, the only thing you are potentially going to gain from a lower impedance electrical circuit is a spark at slightly higher voltage. Given that the spark is created at very high voltage levels I cant see it making any real benefit. Probably changing / cleaning / gaping your plugs every so often would yield a better result?
As a secondary advantage, you would have brighter headlights, better engine cranking etc.
Sounds like Hyperbollox to me! 
I like a mod as much as the next HSV/Mon owner...... But, this obsession to spend vast amounts of cash just to gain 1 or 2 bhp, is frankly beyond my comprehension.
Headers - Yes
Supercharger - Yes
Catback Exhaust - Yes
Turbo - Yes
AP Brakes - Yes
Quicksilver Respray - Yes
I can see the point of those.
Rearranging the badges on the front of the car to improve the aerodynamics or getting a special hose or cable that will get you 0.05 of a bhp.... WTF!
These people should get a life and/or give me their spare cash
I like a mod as much as the next HSV/Mon owner...... But, this obsession to spend vast amounts of cash just to gain 1 or 2 bhp, is frankly beyond my comprehension.
Headers - Yes
Supercharger - Yes
Catback Exhaust - Yes
Turbo - Yes
AP Brakes - Yes
Quicksilver Respray - Yes
I can see the point of those.
Rearranging the badges on the front of the car to improve the aerodynamics or getting a special hose or cable that will get you 0.05 of a bhp.... WTF!
These people should get a life and/or give me their spare cash
Edited by demolition man on Tuesday 8th August 08:57
As an electronics engineer by trade, the only benefit I can see in adding extra grounding would be if there is a problem with the existing stuff. The effect of lowering the circuit resistance by a few mOhms would be minimal. C5 Vette has some gnd posts in the engine bay that corrode cos of spray, and are hard to find/reach. Adding a supplementary gnd can be easier and quicker than finding the actual fault !!
Other than that, I second what Demolition man said.
Except that when he said "Quicksilver" he actually meant "impulse blue" But I'm sure you'd all spotted that mistake anyway ! He He
Other than that, I second what Demolition man said.
Except that when he said "Quicksilver" he actually meant "impulse blue" But I'm sure you'd all spotted that mistake anyway ! He He
Edited by v8d on Tuesday 8th August 10:09
demolition man said:
Sounds like Hyperbollox to me!
I like a mod as much as the next HSV/Mon owner...... But, this obsession to spend vast amounts of cash just to gain 1 or 2 bhp, is frankly beyond my comprehension.
Headers - Yes
Supercharger - Yes
Catback Exhaust - Yes
Turbo - Yes
AP Brakes - Yes
Quicksilver Respray - Yes
I can see the point of those.
Rearranging the badges on the front of the car to improve the aerodynamics or getting a special hose or cable that will get you 0.05 of a bhp.... WTF!
These people should get a life and/or give me their spare cash
I like a mod as much as the next HSV/Mon owner...... But, this obsession to spend vast amounts of cash just to gain 1 or 2 bhp, is frankly beyond my comprehension.
Headers - Yes
Supercharger - Yes
Catback Exhaust - Yes
Turbo - Yes
AP Brakes - Yes
Quicksilver Respray - Yes
I can see the point of those.
Rearranging the badges on the front of the car to improve the aerodynamics or getting a special hose or cable that will get you 0.05 of a bhp.... WTF!
These people should get a life and/or give me their spare cash
Edited by demolition man on Tuesday 8th August 08:57
I was considering the Quicksilver respray but I am not sure I could cope with the extra power
Although not yet a Monaro owner (hope to be soon) I read this forum with interest every day. Folks do not realise that starting an engine even on a warm day can involve loads of 300+ amps. In the winter and with a large engine you can reach 700+ amps. Inefficient grounding to contain these very large loads can pit bearings, melt cables etc: as the current flows through whatever path it can find.
Its a good ides to ensure that anything that has a high amperage consumption is adequately grounded, something the manufacturers do not always do.
White is the most exclusive and fastest colour.
Its a good ides to ensure that anything that has a high amperage consumption is adequately grounded, something the manufacturers do not always do.
White is the most exclusive and fastest colour.
Misker said:
Although not yet a Monaro owner (hope to be soon) I read this forum with interest every day. Folks do not realise that starting an engine even on a warm day can involve loads of 300+ amps. In the winter and with a large engine you can reach 700+ amps. Inefficient grounding to contain these very large loads can pit bearings, melt cables etc: as the current flows through whatever path it can find.
Its a good ides to ensure that anything that has a high amperage consumption is adequately grounded, something the manufacturers do not always do.
White is the most exclusive and fastest colour.
Its a good ides to ensure that anything that has a high amperage consumption is adequately grounded, something the manufacturers do not always do.
White is the most exclusive and fastest colour.
I'd second that one. I had a quick squint through google, and most of it looks like Hype.
The one beneficial thing like this you can do, is good if you often have difficulty starting.
Obviously check that the basic components are alright first. If you still have difficulty, run a very heavy guage wire (something like welder cable) from the starter motor ground to the battery negative. The return for the starter often relies on the engine block and the chsssis as the conduction path, and as has been pointed out can carry huge currents. It's not so much the engine block or the chassis, but the connections between them.
When you add the wire use a conductive grease to make the joints at the bolt/screw terminals.
Edited by dilbert on Tuesday 8th August 14:38
Where Is the Best Ground?
With the engine shut off, the battery supplies power to accessories and is the source of the best ground. After the engine starts and the alternator takes over, the alternator becomes the source of all power and the battery becomes a load and stabilizer. The best ground now is on the alternator case, located at the grounding point for the brush set, rectifier bridge and in some cases, the regulator. Where are they mounted? On the rear case half, and how is the rear case half attached to the front? Typically with four through bolts sandwiching the field between them. Most alternators use the front case half as the mount for the belt adjusters and block attachment. With the engine running, it is always a good idea to measure a voltage drop between the front and rear case halves to ensure great connections.
With the engine shut off, the battery supplies power to accessories and is the source of the best ground. After the engine starts and the alternator takes over, the alternator becomes the source of all power and the battery becomes a load and stabilizer. The best ground now is on the alternator case, located at the grounding point for the brush set, rectifier bridge and in some cases, the regulator. Where are they mounted? On the rear case half, and how is the rear case half attached to the front? Typically with four through bolts sandwiching the field between them. Most alternators use the front case half as the mount for the belt adjusters and block attachment. With the engine running, it is always a good idea to measure a voltage drop between the front and rear case halves to ensure great connections.
The best ground will always be at the battery.
Think of the battery as being a huge capacitor with a very low output impedance. Even with the regulator on the alternator, the battery will be the biggest single stabilising influence on the car electrical systems.
The battery can potentially supply six or seven hundred amps almost instantaneously. It has to for the biggest load (even considering wideboy stereos) which is the starter. The alternator can only ever produce a comparitively small output.
The battery can only produce high current for a short time. The stereo may be a smaller load, but it runs for longer. If this is draining your battery, then it's because the alternator is not big enough. Get a bigger alternator, or fit a second one.
Think of the battery as being a huge capacitor with a very low output impedance. Even with the regulator on the alternator, the battery will be the biggest single stabilising influence on the car electrical systems.
The battery can potentially supply six or seven hundred amps almost instantaneously. It has to for the biggest load (even considering wideboy stereos) which is the starter. The alternator can only ever produce a comparitively small output.
The battery can only produce high current for a short time. The stereo may be a smaller load, but it runs for longer. If this is draining your battery, then it's because the alternator is not big enough. Get a bigger alternator, or fit a second one.
Hi there,
I used to run a grounding kit and box on my v6 coupe (Japanese kit but cant remember the make). Loads of the Americans reported better idle but on my car I noticed the aircon was a little smoother (weird I know).
To be honest I got the kit as an experiment and the box has a very bright blue LED on it which you can see under the bonnet !! I have not bothered refitting it to the Monaro but maybe I should. The Monaro could really do with a smoother idle though.
Cheers
Steven
I used to run a grounding kit and box on my v6 coupe (Japanese kit but cant remember the make). Loads of the Americans reported better idle but on my car I noticed the aircon was a little smoother (weird I know).
To be honest I got the kit as an experiment and the box has a very bright blue LED on it which you can see under the bonnet !! I have not bothered refitting it to the Monaro but maybe I should. The Monaro could really do with a smoother idle though.
Cheers
Steven
Swordfishcoupe said:
Hi there,
I used to run a grounding kit and box on my v6 coupe (Japanese kit but cant remember the make). Loads of the Americans reported better idle but on my car I noticed the aircon was a little smoother (weird I know).
To be honest I got the kit as an experiment and the box has a very bright blue LED on it which you can see under the bonnet !! I have not bothered refitting it to the Monaro but maybe I should. The Monaro could really do with a smoother idle though.
Cheers
Steven
I used to run a grounding kit and box on my v6 coupe (Japanese kit but cant remember the make). Loads of the Americans reported better idle but on my car I noticed the aircon was a little smoother (weird I know).
To be honest I got the kit as an experiment and the box has a very bright blue LED on it which you can see under the bonnet !! I have not bothered refitting it to the Monaro but maybe I should. The Monaro could really do with a smoother idle though.
Cheers
Steven
Try some Iridium plugs from NGK, they smoothed the idle considerably on my Monaro and also on the Vette (same engine)
v=IR as Mr Ohms says. of course when dealing with pulses as in the sparking system one has to consider surge impedance where Xl=2PiFL even bends in wire cause a significant impedance/resistance (also important when installing ICE).
Best earth must be at the battery cause that is where it originates from. The connection from the earth battery post to the bodyshell could in theory carry all the current the battery is supplying. Even the body shell (acting as a conductor) has resistance. Using additional copper wire from the battery direct to ICE will reduce volt drop and so increase power (multi-strand wire carries current better than solid conductors - skin effect. It is also better from a noise immunity perspective think solid wire think ariel/antennae.
By the way "Impulse Blue" is quickest, rarest and bestist colour.
Andy MIEE
Best earth must be at the battery cause that is where it originates from. The connection from the earth battery post to the bodyshell could in theory carry all the current the battery is supplying. Even the body shell (acting as a conductor) has resistance. Using additional copper wire from the battery direct to ICE will reduce volt drop and so increase power (multi-strand wire carries current better than solid conductors - skin effect. It is also better from a noise immunity perspective think solid wire think ariel/antennae.
By the way "Impulse Blue" is quickest, rarest and bestist colour.
Andy MIEE
yorkkie said:
v=IR as Mr Ohms says. of course when dealing with pulses as in the sparking system one has to consider surge impedance where Xl=2PiFL even bends in wire cause a significant impedance/resistance (also important when installing ICE).
Best earth must be at the battery cause that is where it originates from. The connection from the earth battery post to the bodyshell could in theory carry all the current the battery is supplying. Even the body shell (acting as a conductor) has resistance. Using additional copper wire from the battery direct to ICE will reduce volt drop and so increase power (multi-strand wire carries current better than solid conductors - skin effect. It is also better from a noise immunity perspective think solid wire think ariel/antennae.
By the way "Impulse Blue" is quickest, rarest and bestist colour.
Andy MIEE
Best earth must be at the battery cause that is where it originates from. The connection from the earth battery post to the bodyshell could in theory carry all the current the battery is supplying. Even the body shell (acting as a conductor) has resistance. Using additional copper wire from the battery direct to ICE will reduce volt drop and so increase power (multi-strand wire carries current better than solid conductors - skin effect. It is also better from a noise immunity perspective think solid wire think ariel/antennae.
By the way "Impulse Blue" is quickest, rarest and bestist colour.
Andy MIEE
At last - someone else knows the real truth about impulse blue !!!
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