Discussion
Quick question whilst we are on the subject of diffs??
did the MG banjo type make it past S1 Vixen? Are all s2 vixens GT6 / Spitfire hypothetically can a quaiff built GT6 diff comfortably handle say 200hp of Zetec in a road car application.
Before you say Steve, I know you want me to stick a cossy diff in place but This one is mine not dads (bracketed for 4HU) and I already have the built up rolling chassis bracketed for std S2 GT6 / spitty diff which I am loathed to bugger up.
Have you any thoughts on best options (bearing in mind it is a road car)
Neil.
did the MG banjo type make it past S1 Vixen? Are all s2 vixens GT6 / Spitfire hypothetically can a quaiff built GT6 diff comfortably handle say 200hp of Zetec in a road car application.
Before you say Steve, I know you want me to stick a cossy diff in place but This one is mine not dads (bracketed for 4HU) and I already have the built up rolling chassis bracketed for std S2 GT6 / spitty diff which I am loathed to bugger up.
Have you any thoughts on best options (bearing in mind it is a road car)
Neil.
Neil,
I had my diff rebuilt by Quaife (ATB Diff), cant remember what the figures were to, but it should be good for the Zetec! (Those were my requirements).
Are you using a standard 2LTR with throttle boddies?
You may/may not be aware, the problem is that onece you start upgrading one part, you force the weakness of another. (I'd really like to get some custome made driveshafts for my car).
Upgrading the quil shafts may also be an idea, while your at it, if anyone has them.
I also fitted steel uprights to my car, although I believe there are better ali options available now.
Darren
I had my diff rebuilt by Quaife (ATB Diff), cant remember what the figures were to, but it should be good for the Zetec! (Those were my requirements).
Are you using a standard 2LTR with throttle boddies?
You may/may not be aware, the problem is that onece you start upgrading one part, you force the weakness of another. (I'd really like to get some custome made driveshafts for my car).
Upgrading the quil shafts may also be an idea, while your at it, if anyone has them.
I also fitted steel uprights to my car, although I believe there are better ali options available now.
Darren
Edited by Daza on Wednesday 20th December 16:39
Edited by Daza on Wednesday 20th December 16:41
Hello Darren.
The chassis is actually already built up and powder coated, hence I dont want to cut the diff mounts about and undo work that is already done. The car will basically be built into a nice road car with std / slightly warmed over Zetec and throttle bodies, similar to dads but not so hardcore
The rear end on both mine and dads are Adrian Venns cast modified uprights which completely do away with all the driveshaft and quill weaknesses, since they use the 3000m hub and driveshaft arrangement. I have spoken to a few people now. Ian Bannister ran about 160 bhp on his car and didn't break a quaiff so I reckon that a sedate road car with a mild 2.0 zetec and about 180hp should probably be ok.
Interestingly concesnus for springing is to only have 2 coil over units to the rear with the front location being used and 200lb all round as a good compromise if not using the car for competition.
Whats the concensus from your set up darren?
Neil.
The chassis is actually already built up and powder coated, hence I dont want to cut the diff mounts about and undo work that is already done. The car will basically be built into a nice road car with std / slightly warmed over Zetec and throttle bodies, similar to dads but not so hardcore
The rear end on both mine and dads are Adrian Venns cast modified uprights which completely do away with all the driveshaft and quill weaknesses, since they use the 3000m hub and driveshaft arrangement. I have spoken to a few people now. Ian Bannister ran about 160 bhp on his car and didn't break a quaiff so I reckon that a sedate road car with a mild 2.0 zetec and about 180hp should probably be ok.
Interestingly concesnus for springing is to only have 2 coil over units to the rear with the front location being used and 200lb all round as a good compromise if not using the car for competition.
Whats the concensus from your set up darren?
Neil.
Neil,
Yes I was aware of Adrians uprights, they came about after the steel uprights, and are probably the right line to go for.
Regarding the diff, at the end of the day it all depends how you drive your road car. Dropping the clutch on 200bhp every time you leave the lights will soon break any diff (yu know that).
Springs - I originally bought a set of 4springs for the rear from DG, They were always too hard. DG didnt/couldnt even tell me what poundage they were from. I then sought advise from Ian, however I've always ran the 4spring setup. I hounestly couldnt tell you the difference in handling between a 4 or 2 spring rear setup, sufice to say, that my car always handled like a go-cart, even on standard monroe blue tourers. And I've never found the ride that harsh.
Darren
Yes I was aware of Adrians uprights, they came about after the steel uprights, and are probably the right line to go for.
Regarding the diff, at the end of the day it all depends how you drive your road car. Dropping the clutch on 200bhp every time you leave the lights will soon break any diff (yu know that).
Springs - I originally bought a set of 4springs for the rear from DG, They were always too hard. DG didnt/couldnt even tell me what poundage they were from. I then sought advise from Ian, however I've always ran the 4spring setup. I hounestly couldnt tell you the difference in handling between a 4 or 2 spring rear setup, sufice to say, that my car always handled like a go-cart, even on standard monroe blue tourers. And I've never found the ride that harsh.
Darren
Hi Neil, hope you are ready for Xmas and all that free time playing in the garage. You will never break a Quaiffe Torque bias diff with 200 bhp but as Dazza says you move the weakness somewhere else. The obvious candidates are the pinnion input shaft and the crownwheel and pinnion gearfaces. Cracktest the pinnion inputshaft, remember it is nearly 40 years old and has probably been rattling around in a dirty worn bearing for most of them. Check the gear faces for any imminent failure of the hardened surfaces. This will soon be accelerated with a massive increase in the input forces.Once you are through the case hardenning the metal is as hard as chocolate (read other forums about TVR Speed 6 cam followers/cams )
As far as uprated driveshafts are concerned a few years ago I made a pair of "prototype" driveshafts for my granny using CV joints and getting rid of the sliding splines. I ran these for 2 years with no problems so offered them via various TVR related websites and got a reasonable ammount of interest. I went to GKN and discussed with their engineers and designed a "production" quality shaft to use with the joints etc which I had tested. Offered them to those interested parties and requested a deposit as merely a token gesture towards committment and got, yes you guessed no deposits. Apart from being virtually indestructable and maintainance free they were Incredibly quiet, it is hard to realise how much noise thoe reciprocating U/J's and sliding splines generate. sTeVeR
As far as uprated driveshafts are concerned a few years ago I made a pair of "prototype" driveshafts for my granny using CV joints and getting rid of the sliding splines. I ran these for 2 years with no problems so offered them via various TVR related websites and got a reasonable ammount of interest. I went to GKN and discussed with their engineers and designed a "production" quality shaft to use with the joints etc which I had tested. Offered them to those interested parties and requested a deposit as merely a token gesture towards committment and got, yes you guessed no deposits. Apart from being virtually indestructable and maintainance free they were Incredibly quiet, it is hard to realise how much noise thoe reciprocating U/J's and sliding splines generate. sTeVeR
Edited by thegamekeeper on Thursday 21st December 12:57
Hi steve / darren.
garage is finally finished Steve. I screwed all of the 1000 slates on. After the winds last week I am bloody glad I did.
Just got back from Reid'ys tonight jhn Mleczek was also there and we had a couple of hours erecting some stud partitioning. just wait till you see his towing barge next year!!
I think Dad and I are going to have a quiet christmas up to our eyes in Glass / resin and filler prepping 2 shells ready for the mechanical bits next year.
I think with mine the ATB Quaiff will probably suffice as you say with suitably tested rotating matched componants.
I think I will also stick to a single coil over on the front location point at the rear end. Though I am never sure if Its ians preferred route coz he is a tight yorkshireman
Hope you both and indeed everyone on here are all set for x-mas
Neil.
Darren, thanks for the email, thought I would reply on here. Sorry about the delay but I've just realised its January, can't remember the last 10 days, bank account has been abused and I can't get the wheelie bin through the gates. Back to reality !!!
It would be difficult to put a current price on these now because I did this excercise a couple of years ago now and the final response from those "interested" p****d me off so much I decided just to use the pair I had made for myself and have done with it. These things just dont "happen" and an aweful lot of time and effort went into it. 3 trips from here to GKN in the midlands, drawings, discussions with their engineers etc.
They would not in my opinion been expensive ( but expensive is a realtive term) probably a couple of hundred pounds each ( the joints were £60 each) and there are 2 per side. The tricky part was having GKN produce the splined shafts and heat treating them which is only economically viable if you manufacture in small batches. sTeVeR
It would be difficult to put a current price on these now because I did this excercise a couple of years ago now and the final response from those "interested" p****d me off so much I decided just to use the pair I had made for myself and have done with it. These things just dont "happen" and an aweful lot of time and effort went into it. 3 trips from here to GKN in the midlands, drawings, discussions with their engineers etc.
They would not in my opinion been expensive ( but expensive is a realtive term) probably a couple of hundred pounds each ( the joints were £60 each) and there are 2 per side. The tricky part was having GKN produce the splined shafts and heat treating them which is only economically viable if you manufacture in small batches. sTeVeR
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