Discussion
bimsb6 said:
is it possible to fit earlier steel wishbones in place of the expensive ally ones ?
If your car is pre-86, I have a set of expensive Ally ones going cheap, as some dozy git forgot to ask explicitly if they were post-86, relying on the fact that the request was for an 89 Turbo to be info enough.
Best offer secures, as they are no use to me, and the Scottish tightwad doesnt wan't them back...
Nice collection... I'm pretty sure the earlier ones are totally different, due to a modified track and suspension location/ goemetry?, I've reconditioned both of my S2 ball joints with some success but the design is very poor, to be honest when I first took the standard one apart I thought there were some bits missing, there's really not much more than a bit of plastic stopping the joint popping right through the wishbone!
Hartech does indeed offer reconditioned ones, as far as I know they still do them, the good news is they change the design to a much better one from the original (its a self contained sealed steel insert rather than the plastic top and bottom cups of the original).
It's a very easy and straightforward job to whip the wishbones off, (I can do it in about 20 minutes now), it is a bit of a fiddle trying to get the anti roll bar located through the drop link but it can be done without taking anything else off and with no special tools, you will need a good vice and bench to change out the bush though, I wouldn't like to try it on the street.
I've been looking at loads of ball joints lately on ebay that might be suitable replacements, with a view to using uprated joints, what is needed is a self contained unit with a step on the bottom to stop it going any further through the wishbone, and a circlip to retain it at the top.
All you would have to do is get the shaft to be the same size and length, and (providing the locating shoulder is long enough) have the wishbone bored out to the correct diameter.
Jaguar e type ones look pretty close, but as I'm away at the moment so can't check to see (my brother has an e type), I recon there must be some german car out there with the correct size shaft that will do though.
Unfortunately I don't know where Hartech source their sealed units from, and when I removed mine there were no markings on it that I could see so next time I'll have to either send them off or have a trip down there if I can't sort out a similar one.
For info, the Hartech joints won't fit into standard aluminium wishbones as there is a cup in the top of the old design for the plastic bush to locate into, wheras the Hartech ones are bored out with a shoulder on the top to accommadate the sealed ball joint, which is why they are an exchange item.
I'm sure Baz will be along soon to set you straight about these things.
Andy
Hartech does indeed offer reconditioned ones, as far as I know they still do them, the good news is they change the design to a much better one from the original (its a self contained sealed steel insert rather than the plastic top and bottom cups of the original).
It's a very easy and straightforward job to whip the wishbones off, (I can do it in about 20 minutes now), it is a bit of a fiddle trying to get the anti roll bar located through the drop link but it can be done without taking anything else off and with no special tools, you will need a good vice and bench to change out the bush though, I wouldn't like to try it on the street.
I've been looking at loads of ball joints lately on ebay that might be suitable replacements, with a view to using uprated joints, what is needed is a self contained unit with a step on the bottom to stop it going any further through the wishbone, and a circlip to retain it at the top.
All you would have to do is get the shaft to be the same size and length, and (providing the locating shoulder is long enough) have the wishbone bored out to the correct diameter.
Jaguar e type ones look pretty close, but as I'm away at the moment so can't check to see (my brother has an e type), I recon there must be some german car out there with the correct size shaft that will do though.
Unfortunately I don't know where Hartech source their sealed units from, and when I removed mine there were no markings on it that I could see so next time I'll have to either send them off or have a trip down there if I can't sort out a similar one.
For info, the Hartech joints won't fit into standard aluminium wishbones as there is a cup in the top of the old design for the plastic bush to locate into, wheras the Hartech ones are bored out with a shoulder on the top to accommadate the sealed ball joint, which is why they are an exchange item.
I'm sure Baz will be along soon to set you straight about these things.
Andy
Edited by silvers2 on Tuesday 30th January 04:09
Edited by silvers2 on Tuesday 30th January 04:13
Just in case you wonder what the previous posting was all about - I was trying to post pictures with the help of a friendly contributor but we both got stuck with the small square and having to click on it to reveal the picture - so it is back to square one and we will hopefully be posting some pictures soon to explain more about the reconditioned wishbones that we manufacture.
The point I was trying to make pictorially is that not only do the ball joints fail - but also the rubber silent blocks are becoming perished and no longer fitting the hole and need replacing as well and our new wishbone supply changes both parts and are therefore as good as new.
Anyway - hopefully some photos will follow.
Prices for our 944 wishbones are now £175.00 + Vat + posting and we are fully stocked with wishbones for older 944's (pre 1987) new 944's (post 1986), 968's, 964's, 993's, and shortly (after completing road tests) for 996's and Boxsters.
We also stock reconditioned rear Vee arms for 993's @ £150 + Vat.
We also now supply most of the UK trade - and no complaints to date.
Baz Hartech
The point I was trying to make pictorially is that not only do the ball joints fail - but also the rubber silent blocks are becoming perished and no longer fitting the hole and need replacing as well and our new wishbone supply changes both parts and are therefore as good as new.
Anyway - hopefully some photos will follow.
Prices for our 944 wishbones are now £175.00 + Vat + posting and we are fully stocked with wishbones for older 944's (pre 1987) new 944's (post 1986), 968's, 964's, 993's, and shortly (after completing road tests) for 996's and Boxsters.
We also stock reconditioned rear Vee arms for 993's @ £150 + Vat.
We also now supply most of the UK trade - and no complaints to date.
Baz Hartech
Well we nearly got there with the photos - but not quite - so for those interested in finding out more about our wishbones including several productions photos etc - I have placed a document on our temporary host for disasters - (although hopefully it will not be considered as one of those).
The location is http://groups.msn.com/Porschedissaste (please note the unusual spelling). It takes a while to download.
Hopefully pictures directly placed on this site will be forthcoming soon.
Baz Hartech
The location is http://groups.msn.com/Porschedissaste (please note the unusual spelling). It takes a while to download.
Hopefully pictures directly placed on this site will be forthcoming soon.
Baz Hartech
randlemarcus said:
If your car is pre-86, I have a set of expensive Ally ones going cheap,
Hi Marcus. let me know how much you want for them (assuming the PH email function is up), as I have a 924S, which could use some expensive alloy front wishbones, as steel ones are fitted. The billet alternatives from Canada I've looked at are *really* expensive
Thanks
Sean
Always busy Big Dave but more so since the Boxster/996 engine problems - which we expect more of to emerge as they age - so just built a dedicated engine rebuild room just for them with operating theatre materials in anticipation of an increase in that business.
Despite which the 3 litre 944 turbo is almost finished!
Baz Hartech
Despite which the 3 litre 944 turbo is almost finished!
Baz Hartech
Despite my "racing heritage" we decided long ago that due to the age gap between myself and the rest of the staff, it might not be a good idea to get into too much tuning - so we decided to stick to standard parts and specifications.
However since then one of our number has been involved in tuning a Renault 5 turbo for quarter milers (now one of the fastest in the Country producing over 250bhp) and another is getting the hang of machining etc so - who knows where it will lead us in the future.
However building the turbo was done more to prove it could be done with many standard parts and not really as a development project.
It would be easy to do using a donor 944 turbo and some other parts that are becoming more readily available as these older cars are getting scrapped for lower levels of damage as their own value drops.
I have kept a photographic record and when it is finished (and if we can get it running OK) we will probably offer to reproduce it for others or even provide the special parts (which are few) and all the information on how to do it yourself.
The only special parts really were head the bolting system (although you could just use shorter studs), machining the pistons to lower the compression ratio and a mix of 968/S2 block, 968 pistons (modified), 968/S2 crank and rods, 944 2.7 head and cambox/camshaft and all the rest from a 944 turbo including wiring loom.
We have fitted extra things so we can up the boost later without modifying everything but for standard boost you should not need to.
Time will tell and at least now I can provide pictures if I want to.
Baz Hartech
However since then one of our number has been involved in tuning a Renault 5 turbo for quarter milers (now one of the fastest in the Country producing over 250bhp) and another is getting the hang of machining etc so - who knows where it will lead us in the future.
However building the turbo was done more to prove it could be done with many standard parts and not really as a development project.
It would be easy to do using a donor 944 turbo and some other parts that are becoming more readily available as these older cars are getting scrapped for lower levels of damage as their own value drops.
I have kept a photographic record and when it is finished (and if we can get it running OK) we will probably offer to reproduce it for others or even provide the special parts (which are few) and all the information on how to do it yourself.
The only special parts really were head the bolting system (although you could just use shorter studs), machining the pistons to lower the compression ratio and a mix of 968/S2 block, 968 pistons (modified), 968/S2 crank and rods, 944 2.7 head and cambox/camshaft and all the rest from a 944 turbo including wiring loom.
We have fitted extra things so we can up the boost later without modifying everything but for standard boost you should not need to.
Time will tell and at least now I can provide pictures if I want to.
Baz Hartech
Ok here is a pic of the piston in the block and head bolts (taken today) - we had decided to take off the head and get rid of the shorter head studs and replace with stainless steel inserts and new head bolts as shown - so we can ustilise the cometic head gasket and increase boost later without strengthening it all again.
Just got to fit some locations to the inlet manifold gaskets to stop them popping out with increased boost and we will get it running.
At least it proves I've cracked the picture posting now.
Baz Hartech
Just got to fit some locations to the inlet manifold gaskets to stop them popping out with increased boost and we will get it running.
At least it proves I've cracked the picture posting now.
Baz Hartech
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