Taimar starting problem

[TVickR]

My Taimar takes too much cranking to start and the amount depends on how long since it was last running on a scale of days. After a recent long layup it will not start at all before the battery goes flat! I suspect that when the engine is not running fuel leaks back from the pump to the tank. The pump is the original Essex mechanical variety. If the pump is shot then I guess it's time to consider going electric but I need a correct diagnosis first.

Can anyone please shed any light on this?


Mark

[tvrjohn]

I'd check the condition of the spark at the plug , and also is the plug showing any signs of fueling up (too much fuel)
Easiest things to check first

[adrian@]

Check the 12V start wiring, from the starter to the ballest resistor. The standard system, when the igntion key is turned powers the, start relay/starter/ coil via this wire and if it is faulty the car only fires AS the key is released, and no matter how much cranking you do it will not start.
Adrian@

[KANEIT]

Mines been laid up for a while and would not start. Would turn quite quickly but not spark and drained the battery quite quickly.
I'm crap with electrics so did trial and error fault finding by sticking a tester screwdriver thing across all the ignition bits. I guessed if the bulb lit the bits were O.K!
IDIOT BOY APPROACH TO STARTING PROBLEMS!
Its in my garage so electrics were not damp.
Couldn't see any breaks in any wires.
It wasn't sparking whatsoever so tested the current across ballast res, coil, condensor - all seemed fine but got new coil and condensor anyway as they looked grubby!. Still did not fire.
Was not a smidgin of current at the king lead so that ruled out the distribution system or suggested something before that was broke or at least thats what I think was the answer!).
Distributor cap looked nice and clean inside.
Rotor arm turned and points were opening and closing and sparking a bit so I assumed that meant that was working right.
Plugs were gapped right and were quite new.
Then got a new battery and the thing fired up straight away! Thought I was being clever but really should have known the battery was duff.

The battery was only a 300 rated one and i think 500 odd is more like whats needed but wont fit in the space next to the heater matrix thingy box.
So a knackered low power rated battery could be the cause.

Other things ive seen are if the flaps in the carb air intakes are stuck shut like mine was one winter and it wouldnt start. Had to give em a tap to free them. Started as soon as i did that.
Also been recommended to me to drop a little petrol down the top of the carb air intakes - VERY DANGEROUS??????
If a muppet like I can get a car to start then you can - good luck.

Edited by KANEIT on Sunday 22 April 23:05

[TVickR]

Thanks for the advice chaps but I am now certain that this is a fuel flow problem. After re-charging the battery, disconnecting the input to the fuel pump and priming it with fuel, it started and runs OK. I am left with the same problem of the amount of cranking being dependent on how long since it was last started. I understand that there is a non-return valve on the input side of the pump; if it is leaky then it could explain the gradual flow back of fuel.

Mark

[davidy]

Mark

As an aside, my mechanical pump went porous. You could see/feel/smell fuel on the outside of the pump. Just check it's not that.

davidy

Edited by davidy on Thursday 26th April 23:06

[adrian@]

TVickR said:

Thanks for the advice chaps but I am now certain that this is a fuel flow problem. After re-charging the battery, disconnecting the input to the fuel pump and priming it with fuel, it started and runs OK. I am left with the same problem of the amount of cranking being dependent on how long since it was last started. I understand that there is a non-return valve on the input side of the pump; if it is leaky then it could explain the gradual flow back of fuel.

Mark

Sorry, so where does the fuel go that was in the float chamber having been left full aftr the car has been run, are your thoughts that this is evaporating?
Adrian@

[ATE399J]

Had a similar problem when running a mechanical pump. Had to take off the brass bolt/cover to the float chamber and fill it up before the car would start - sometimes had to do this 2 or 3 times before the car would run - once I had to manually prime the fuel pump. Never did work out where the fuel went - as Adrian said the float chamber should remain full. Swapping to a electric pump solved all the problems.