E39 Interior fan problem

[Monster26]

Hi Chaps, can anyone help with this please? (hope blackspider )

Our 2000 E39 fan has started doing something funny. The interior fan goes to full power when the controls says notch 1. The fan speed can't be controlled the only way to stop it is to turn the fan off. When it's running it will randomly stop but then start again up to full power again. Scared the wife today as I forgot to tell her it was playing up...opps

I've looked at two US sites and found the following,which seems to be the same problem

1st post
"My A/C does not adjust the fan speed automatically anymore when the auto button is depressed. Although, I can change the fan speed manually. From searching this site, I think the Final Stage Unit is bad.

I have been on the 540i6.com site to see how to swap out the blower resistor. The part number listed is #64 11 6 929 486. I have also gone to the BavAuto site and they have something called the Blower Resistor part #64 11 6 923 204 for $72. Is this an updated part, or something different."

2nd post
"Fan speed varied randomly, independent of manual fan speed or auto climate function. Usually it blew at warp speed, when a low cool what what I was seeking.
Dealer special ordered 'final stage unit for blower,' P/N 64-11-8-385-549. Beast goes in tomorrow for install. Hopefully this will do it!"

The part numbers are different so does anyone know which is correct. Plus is a competent DIY'er able to replace the bits.

Thanks inadvance,
Mark

[blackspider]

What you have found is more than likely the cause of the problem.

The output/final stage resistor(hedgehog)is prone to failure giving an irratic fan control-ie flat out blower when its supposed to be at low speed,fan switches off when you want it flat out.

The part number I dont know off hand-the reason you have 2 different numbers there is because the part has be modified so much the number changes with it-chances are there are 6 or 7 different numbers....Best bet is to get the number from a dealer tomorrow or I can post it monday.

Easy to fit-remove the drivers side kick trim(slots around pedals)remove the carpet trim on the left(held in by a phillips screw,the trim then slides towards the back of vehicle-its on clips)Then if you look up from where that trim came from you will see the part you need to take out-it will either be clipped in or held in by 2 T20 torx screws.Has a single 5 pin connector attached with several 2.5mm wires going in(yellow/green,red/green,black,brown)

[olf]

blackspider said:

What you have found is more than likely the cause of the problem.

The output/final stage resistor(hedgehog)is prone to failure giving an irratic fan control-ie flat out blower when its supposed to be at low speed,fan switches off when you want it flat out.

The part number I dont know off hand-the reason you have 2 different numbers there is because the part has be modified so much the number changes with it-chances are there are 6 or 7 different numbers....Best bet is to get the number from a dealer tomorrow or I can post it monday.

Easy to fit-remove the drivers side kick trim(slots around pedals)remove the carpet trim on the left(held in by a phillips screw,the trim then slides towards the back of vehicle-its on clips)Then if you look up from where that trim came from you will see the part you need to take out-it will either be clipped in or held in by 2 T20 torx screws.Has a single 5 pin connector attached with several 2.5mm wires going in(yellow/green,red/green,black,brown)

Hi Blackspider, been told I have this problem on my E46 320d with climate... Would you be kind enough to advise similar DIY instructions as above?

[blackspider]

Slightly more awkward for this one....

Same area,drop drivers kick trim to expose side of heater box.

First you need to drop down the recirc flap motor(you will see a short silver bar coming from it going to the baulk head)It is held in by 2 T20 Torx...one you can see and one thats hidden in a recess about 30mm in.Once youve found them and undone them let the motor hang-dont pull on it or you will break it off from the flap.

Now thats down you will see the resistor-its held in by 2 T20 torx screws-undo and remove.

Finding the 2nd screw of the motor is the challenge on this task..its up and left of the motor.If you feel round that area of the motor housing you will feel a half moon shape...once you've got that you then need a T20 scrwdriver not too long in length.

[Monster26]

Thanks Mr Spider.

Will be speaking to my friend at Dick Lovett on Monday. Thanks for the offer to post the part no., very nice of you.

Thanks again,
Mark

Edited by Monster26 on Saturday 5th May 19:18

Edited by Monster26 on Saturday 5th May 19:18

[olf]

blackspider said:

Slightly more awkward for this one....

Same area,drop drivers kick trim to expose side of heater box.

First you need to drop down the recirc flap motor(you will see a short silver bar coming from it going to the baulk head)It is held in by 2 T20 Torx...one you can see and one thats hidden in a recess about 30mm in.Once youve found them and undone them let the motor hang-dont pull on it or you will break it off from the flap.

Now thats down you will see the resistor-its held in by 2 T20 torx screws-undo and remove.

Finding the 2nd screw of the motor is the challenge on this task..its up and left of the motor.If you feel round that area of the motor housing you will feel a half moon shape...once you've got that you then need a T20 scrwdriver not too long in length.

As usual you are a champ - I'll give it a try, nothing to lose! Thank you very much... again!

[blackspider]

olf said:

blackspider said:

Slightly more awkward for this one....

Same area,drop drivers kick trim to expose side of heater box.

First you need to drop down the recirc flap motor(you will see a short silver bar coming from it going to the baulk head)It is held in by 2 T20 Torx...one you can see and one thats hidden in a recess about 30mm in.Once youve found them and undone them let the motor hang-dont pull on it or you will break it off from the flap.

Now thats down you will see the resistor-its held in by 2 T20 torx screws-undo and remove.

Finding the 2nd screw of the motor is the challenge on this task..its up and left of the motor.If you feel round that area of the motor housing you will feel a half moon shape...once you've got that you then need a T20 scrwdriver not too long in length.

As usual you are a champ - I'll give it a try, nothing to lose! Thank you very much... again!

No problem..Good luck

[Olf]

blackspider said:

olf said:

blackspider said:

Slightly more awkward for this one....

Same area,drop drivers kick trim to expose side of heater box.

First you need to drop down the recirc flap motor(you will see a short silver bar coming from it going to the baulk head)It is held in by 2 T20 Torx...one you can see and one thats hidden in a recess about 30mm in.Once youve found them and undone them let the motor hang-dont pull on it or you will break it off from the flap.

Now thats down you will see the resistor-its held in by 2 T20 torx screws-undo and remove.

Finding the 2nd screw of the motor is the challenge on this task..its up and left of the motor.If you feel round that area of the motor housing you will feel a half moon shape...once you've got that you then need a T20 scrwdriver not too long in length.

As usual you are a champ - I'll give it a try, nothing to lose! Thank you very much... again!

No problem..Good luck

Blimey, got it done in the end but what a sod of a job. I spend an hour upside down inside out and chewing the clutch pedal. Nevermind, fixed now!


Cheers as usual BS. Are you still around, have you set up on your own yet?

[largerandrock]

part number 64.11.6.923.204

Blower high setting (resister)

£59.50 inc vat retail

There very common but once done shouldnt go again!.