s2 engine mountings

[darren r]

has anybody got any tips to help with the changing of engine mountings,me total novice,all advice appreciated,cheers d

[Ceejay73]

1) Make sure you have the correct mounts, most places will try to supply mounts which are 38mm thick but my old ones measured over 40mm in situ which meant I needed the 50mm items (I got em online from a capri specialist, details available if required).
2) Exhaust and downpipes need to come off but not manifolds.
3) Intake pipes from AFM's to plenum chamber need to come off.
4) Undo nut on top and bottom of old mounts before disturbing them, keeping the weight of the engine on them.
5) Lift engine using a trolley jack under sump (with a nice lump of wood to spread the load) if you dont have an engine hoist.

• note it can actually be easier on a trolley jack as you may need to rotate the engine a little to get the out an back in again. if it is supported from underneath you can do this quite easily with a length of wood between manifolds and chassis as you only need to rock it rather than lifting it further.

Oh yeah and the mount nuts are a complete tw@t to get to.
Apart from that its fairly straight forward, I did mine about a month ago.
Have fun,
Carl.

Edit to add mine is an S3 so mounts could differ in size, measure before you start is my advice.

Edited by Ceejay73 on Tuesday 29th May 17:43

[darren r]

thank you ceejay,will let you know how i got on,cheers d

[clarenceboddiger]

I did my drivers side only, but this thread may give you a few tips

http://www.pistonheads.com/xforums/topic.asp?h=0&a...

As then, if you need any shims let me know , I'll stick a few in the post.

Edited by clarenceboddiger on Wednesday 30th May 21:43

[Ceejay73]

Ken, just out of interest, do you now what size the mounts were that you fitted? Just a little curious after the trouble I had sourcing the 50mm ones and wondering if this is why yours needed shimming so much.

Carl.

[Mr Plow]

I did mine some time ago, and found it alot easier getting at the mounting bolts using a deep off set ring spanner, especially the bottom nuts.

[spludge]

Thats a job I'll have to do soon. Mine are around 50mm high but have sagged resulting in the ARB rubbing on the sump. I'm wondering whether to fit the shorter mounts and shim them, provided the studs are long enough of course, which should help to reduce the risk of sagging. Undecided as yet so definitely interested in a source for the 50mm items.

K

[Jed-S]

Avoid the QH EM672 mounts - they're made of jelly. When I fitted a pair of them to mine the engine moved all over the place. I ended up using a generic 40mm mount left over from my Westfield days and a Fiesta rectangular mount with 2 x 5mm shims.

Rally Design do heavy duty engine mounts that have had good reports from Westfield owners although I did hear someone who found that they didn't last.

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/advanced_sear...

[clarenceboddiger]

Ceejay73 said:

Ken, just out of interest, do you now what size the mounts were that you fitted? Just a little curious after the trouble I had sourcing the 50mm ones and wondering if this is why yours needed shimming so much.

Carl.

Could be ,I got the EM670s which were about 35-38mm,
bear in mind that I managed to fit mine without stripping too much out wether it would be as easy with the thicker ones is questionable as it was an awkward job.The shims I used were slotted so can be fitted once the mounting is located in both holes.There may also be a debate as to wether the thicker the rubber, the more movement in the mounting.But whatever the ones I fitted have been fine since

Edited by clarenceboddiger on Saturday 2nd June 06:51

[darren r]

thanks for all the tips,got the parts from tvr spares ,did not check the size,just trusted them,replaced broken one in 2 hours[helps to take top bracket off],decided to replace other side[not broken but assumed needed replaceing],took 7 hours,every thing went wrong,moral of story "IF ITS NOT FAULTY,LEAVE IT ALONE"what do you say?

[spludge]

darren r said:

IF ITS NOT FAULTY,LEAVE IT ALONE

Or as someone once said 'If it ain't broke, fix it until it is"

I've just ordered a pair of the 50mm type from Rallydesign in the hope that they'll do the job. I definitely do not want to do the job twice but we shall see.

K

[ketvrin]

spludge said:

I've just ordered a pair of the 50mm type from Rallydesign in the hope that they'll do the job. I definitely do not want to do the job twice but we shall see.

K

Hi Ken

How did you get on with fitting your new mounts and are you happy with the results ?

I'm about to replace mine...

K.

[ketvrin]

Ceejay73 said:

1) Make sure you have the correct mounts, most places will try to supply mounts which are 38mm thick but my old ones measured over 40mm in situ which meant I needed the 50mm items (I got em online from a capri specialist, details available if required).
2) Exhaust and downpipes need to come off but not manifolds.
3) Intake pipes from AFM's to plenum chamber need to come off.
4) Undo nut on top and bottom of old mounts before disturbing them, keeping the weight of the engine on them.
5) Lift engine using a trolley jack under sump (with a nice lump of wood to spread the load) if you dont have an engine hoist.

• note it can actually be easier on a trolley jack as you may need to rotate the engine a little to get the out an back in again. if it is supported from underneath you can do this quite easily with a length of wood between manifolds and chassis as you only need to rock it rather than lifting it further.

This is great info thanks. what do you recommend - replace one mount while the other is still in place, or to remove and then refit both while the engine is lifted ?

Edited by ketvrin on Wednesday 29th August 08:14

[spludge]

ketvrin said:

How did you get on with fitting your new mounts and are you happy with the results ?

Please try to keep up Kevin :-http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=425754 

The comments from Ceejay73 look about spot on to me. I also had the ARB out which gives a bit more space to work. I used a trolley jack and it seemed to me that you don't want to jack the engine up as far as it will go, it just needs to go part way so that you still have clearance to rock it from side to side to get the mounts out/in. I did drivers side first and took the bracket off the engine, then put the mount and bracket in together and left the nuts off the mount and the bracket bolts just finger tight. On the passenger side I left the bracket on the engine and bullied the mount out and in, it took a fair bit of pushing and shoving and fiddling with the jack but it went in eventually. I did mine alone but it would have been a whole lot easier if I'd had a bit of help.

Next time (I hope not!) I think I'd probably try it the other way round, ie passenger side first because it was such a fiddle getting it in and with the worn rather than new mount on the other side you'd probably have the odd mm or so of extra clearance. Take care with the manifolds if you are shoving the engine about, they are the easiest thing to grab hold of or lever against but a tad expensive if you damage them.

With the new mounts I have about 20mm clearance over the ARB so yes I'm happy with the result. I just hope it lasts a few years cos I really don't want to do it again.

K

[ketvrin]

spludge said:

Please try to keep up Kevin

Thats me Ken, always behind and thanks for the tips