Discussion
Hi There
Finally got the engine in the mini and running but, when I've come to set timing, I can't seem to get the engine to at idle with anything less than about 6 degrees advance and there seems to be a difference of about 20 degrees between having the vacume pipe on and off.
The engine is a 1275MG unit with electronic ignition if that makes a difference and its running a HIF44 carb.
Any advice would be well recieved.
Thanks
Marcus
Finally got the engine in the mini and running but, when I've come to set timing, I can't seem to get the engine to at idle with anything less than about 6 degrees advance and there seems to be a difference of about 20 degrees between having the vacume pipe on and off.
The engine is a 1275MG unit with electronic ignition if that makes a difference and its running a HIF44 carb.
Any advice would be well recieved.
Thanks
Marcus
Check for vacuum leak on the inlet side, I think it should be 10 deg at about 900 IIRC. Is it a 12HF01 unleaded or the 12HD24 best of the bunch engine?
Also, pull the BDL needle out and get a BDK, it suits the engine better as they are a bit lean high up and a bit rich low down. This does make an old engine a bit of a slutbag to set up, especially if the fat end of the needle is well worn. The vac unit is working. Failing that, work on 32 deg total advance, ie the max it will give and see how that works. You can then try +/- ing it until it's right.
They are good engines when you get them running right.
Also, if it is a 12HF01, you are likely to have that poppet valve in the carb butterfly which you need to bin now.
Hope it works out right.... try it.
Also, pull the BDL needle out and get a BDK, it suits the engine better as they are a bit lean high up and a bit rich low down. This does make an old engine a bit of a slutbag to set up, especially if the fat end of the needle is well worn. The vac unit is working. Failing that, work on 32 deg total advance, ie the max it will give and see how that works. You can then try +/- ing it until it's right.
They are good engines when you get them running right.
Also, if it is a 12HF01, you are likely to have that poppet valve in the carb butterfly which you need to bin now.
Hope it works out right.... try it.
Wicked, that is THE MG engine to have IMO. You are looking at the 10.5:1 CR leaded one. The 12HF01 had 10.2 and I think there were subtle differences in the head as well.
You want the very last Metro haynes manual (which is also the definitive gearbox rebuild manual for a mini) I think it is 718 or 719 (haynes). That has all the models and codes of all the metro/A+ engines.
My 12HD24 on 10" wheels made my old 64 mini go like stink. THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER WAS BUGGERED AND IT LOST A HUGE AMOUNT OF POWER, CHECK THIS OUT NOW AND GET IT SORTED. It went from being a good engine to average when this happened and was impossible to set up right. Please don't make the same mistake, have it to bits and have a careful look at it.
The first time I got my 12HD24 engine in my 64, I got over the first speed bump in our village and nailed it, it was FAST (with a 3.7 final drive, I think) when the tensioner went, it never really got exceptional. You can tell this if you do timed hill runs and +/- the ignition, if there is a lot of scatter, it doesn't make that much difference.
When I put a lumpy cammed 1380 in there, the surprise wasn't as good as going from a 998 to an MG engine.
I'm just about to stick a 12HF01 engine back in my mini so the 1380 can be rebuilt. It isn't a 12HD24, but leaded fuel is a pain. That redex stuff furs your chambers up bigstyle. I would fork out and buy tetraboost tetra-ethyl lead. At least that way you don't get deposits inside your chambers. I had the head off my 1380 as it was running wrong and got a big surprise in this respect.
The 12HD24 definately has the BDL needle in it and a BDK will correct the original BDL error (which there IS) and also have the benefit of giving the correct mixture, unlike a worn needle. You'll get more welly and use less fuel..... yeah right!
You want the very last Metro haynes manual (which is also the definitive gearbox rebuild manual for a mini) I think it is 718 or 719 (haynes). That has all the models and codes of all the metro/A+ engines.
My 12HD24 on 10" wheels made my old 64 mini go like stink. THE TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER WAS BUGGERED AND IT LOST A HUGE AMOUNT OF POWER, CHECK THIS OUT NOW AND GET IT SORTED. It went from being a good engine to average when this happened and was impossible to set up right. Please don't make the same mistake, have it to bits and have a careful look at it.
The first time I got my 12HD24 engine in my 64, I got over the first speed bump in our village and nailed it, it was FAST (with a 3.7 final drive, I think) when the tensioner went, it never really got exceptional. You can tell this if you do timed hill runs and +/- the ignition, if there is a lot of scatter, it doesn't make that much difference.
When I put a lumpy cammed 1380 in there, the surprise wasn't as good as going from a 998 to an MG engine.
I'm just about to stick a 12HF01 engine back in my mini so the 1380 can be rebuilt. It isn't a 12HD24, but leaded fuel is a pain. That redex stuff furs your chambers up bigstyle. I would fork out and buy tetraboost tetra-ethyl lead. At least that way you don't get deposits inside your chambers. I had the head off my 1380 as it was running wrong and got a big surprise in this respect.
The 12HD24 definately has the BDL needle in it and a BDK will correct the original BDL error (which there IS) and also have the benefit of giving the correct mixture, unlike a worn needle. You'll get more welly and use less fuel..... yeah right!
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