ARB to Sump...
Discussion
I had noticed before that the ARB seemed to be very close to the sump and the sump itself had been welded previously, presumably it had worn through and had to be patched... but today I noticed the ARB was actually touching the sump on the offside. both engine mounts and ARB Bushes look OK and not at all tired but I'm unhappy with what I see. I'm sure that both engine mounts are the same so why just touching on one side ?
I managed to wedge the gap open enough to fix some bearing quality nylon in there for now but recognise this is just a temporary fix.
Any suggestions ? packing the engine mounts perhaps? replacing the sump with one with more clearance ? modifying the existing sump ? something else ???
K
I managed to wedge the gap open enough to fix some bearing quality nylon in there for now but recognise this is just a temporary fix.
Any suggestions ? packing the engine mounts perhaps? replacing the sump with one with more clearance ? modifying the existing sump ? something else ???
K
Cheers Colin that does help and if my mate Ken is reading this and still has some of those shims it looks like it will be my round in the Snake Pass Inn again (but not this week if the weather forecasters are to be believed... )
15 to 25mm as the norm is a big difference from what I have so I guess I probably need new engine mounts as well. mine are numbered "073535" and have the Ford logo as the alternative parts list...
Kevin
15 to 25mm as the norm is a big difference from what I have so I guess I probably need new engine mounts as well. mine are numbered "073535" and have the Ford logo as the alternative parts list...
Kevin
Cheers Ken, I will be having a good look this weekend to see what I need to do, but time will be limited as I intend to join the lakeland tour on sunday. Hopefully I will be able to figure out whats needed then.
I see the mounts on the TVRCARPARTS site at £20+ ea but cant see any on ebay or elsewhere at the moment (some transit items but I'm not sure about size).
So I will be either replacing the mounts, or temporarily inserting some shims... Have you or anyone else done this job recently ? whats the job like ? How easy is it to get to the nuts ? any tricks ? do you add the shims above the mount or below or does it make no difference ?
any advice appreciated as usual...
K
I see the mounts on the TVRCARPARTS site at £20+ ea but cant see any on ebay or elsewhere at the moment (some transit items but I'm not sure about size).
So I will be either replacing the mounts, or temporarily inserting some shims... Have you or anyone else done this job recently ? whats the job like ? How easy is it to get to the nuts ? any tricks ? do you add the shims above the mount or below or does it make no difference ?
any advice appreciated as usual...
K
Changed mine a few weeks back to fix a similar problem. The old mounts had sagged but were otherwise in good nick. With them off the car the studs were offset by around 10-12mm and probably more under load.
A useful tip I picked up from an earlier thread was to use two different combo spanners, thats with different rotation of the splines to the shank, to get some of the nuts off (and on). I had to use three, in sequence, to get the engine sides undone. I also took the bracket off the engine on the drivers side which I think made things a little easier. I used the 50mm mounts from Rallydesign which are the same size as the originals but a real struggle to get in.
The slots in the chassis are very tight on the studs so you'll need to make sure they are cleaned out before fitting the new mounts. Make a note of where all the washers come from and ensure you refit the same way round. Give the engine a good shove to bed it down before you tighten everything up. I don't think theres any height adjustment to be had by moving the mounts up/down in the slots, not much anyway, so I just set the mounts centred on the brackets.
On reflection it seems a straightforward enough job but it certainly didn't feel like that at the time. The spanner work is tedious because access is so tight, and lots of fiddling with the jack to get the engine positioned just right to get the mounts out and in. Leave youself plenty of time and get a mate to help with pushing the engine over a bit while you fit the new bits.
Oh, and I cut the end plates from the old mounts and cleaned them up to use as spacers for when the new mounts sag.
K
A useful tip I picked up from an earlier thread was to use two different combo spanners, thats with different rotation of the splines to the shank, to get some of the nuts off (and on). I had to use three, in sequence, to get the engine sides undone. I also took the bracket off the engine on the drivers side which I think made things a little easier. I used the 50mm mounts from Rallydesign which are the same size as the originals but a real struggle to get in.
The slots in the chassis are very tight on the studs so you'll need to make sure they are cleaned out before fitting the new mounts. Make a note of where all the washers come from and ensure you refit the same way round. Give the engine a good shove to bed it down before you tighten everything up. I don't think theres any height adjustment to be had by moving the mounts up/down in the slots, not much anyway, so I just set the mounts centred on the brackets.
On reflection it seems a straightforward enough job but it certainly didn't feel like that at the time. The spanner work is tedious because access is so tight, and lots of fiddling with the jack to get the engine positioned just right to get the mounts out and in. Leave youself plenty of time and get a mate to help with pushing the engine over a bit while you fit the new bits.
Oh, and I cut the end plates from the old mounts and cleaned them up to use as spacers for when the new mounts sag.
K
First stop for me was the local pawn shop, Cash Exchange or whatever it's called, for a rummage in the odd spanners and sockets bins. Turned up quite a few useful bits at 25 or 50p a pop to supplement my toolbox over the last year, including a couple of different 17mm combo spanners for this job.
K
K
Kev this link may also help re undoing the old mounts
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
clarenceboddiger said:
Kev this link may also help re undoing the old mounts
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
Thanks again Ken, and the prices for those engine mounts look far better than TVRCarparts prices...http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
K
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