Discussion
It costs around £3000 for a 500 that has an air con compatible heating system and is virtually impossible for the GRiff 4.x cars because they don't have this system and would require extensive modifications etc to the body shell to fit it.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Steve, whilst we are on this subject I believe some of the 4.x cars had a separate cold fresh-air vent on the driver's side? Do you think this could be retro-fitted to a 500 car, and have you heard of anyone doing it?
I cooked on Sunday comong home from Castle Coombe and am going to do someything about it! Rich...
I cooked on Sunday comong home from Castle Coombe and am going to do someything about it! Rich...
Rich - there is a secondary fan unit in the driver's side wing/wheel arch with another fan switch by your right knee controlling it - it directs outside air to the RH face and foot vents (instead of going through the heater matrix).
I think this would be quite a lot of work to install. I'm surprised your newer model does not have this. Your car must have been built by Jim and not Bob or Jack.
I think this would be quite a lot of work to install. I'm surprised your newer model does not have this. Your car must have been built by Jim and not Bob or Jack.
trefor said:
Rich - there is a secondary fan unit in the driver's side wing/wheel arch with another fan switch by your right knee controlling it - it directs outside air to the RH face and foot vents (instead of going through the heater matrix).
I think this would be quite a lot of work to install. I'm surprised your newer model does not have this. Your car must have been built by Jim and not Bob or Jack.
Heres mine
Me thinks it may quite difficult to put this in when body is on, maybe cut through the wheelarch to do it??
BB
It got dropped on the newer models because it was quite frankly a waste of time. Piccies of how to get to it and remove it in the bible. I had problems when it siezed and started to fill the car with smoke. Turned out that rubbish had jammed the motor.
It can be retrofitted and has been to many other cars but as I said it is a lot of work for not much.
Steve
It can be retrofitted and has been to many other cars but as I said it is a lot of work for not much.
Steve
Yes and no. Yes if it was retro fitted. No if it wasn't.
The fan was only fitted by default to 500's around 95/96 and to other cars if their owners made a special request.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
The fan was only fitted by default to 500's around 95/96 and to other cars if their owners made a special request.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
- I remember someone posted some pictures of what to look for a few years ago, anyone remember who or indeed got the pics saved? Rich...Dont know how to post pic so sent it to your email.
adjusted heater control on my griff 500 as follows ish! pic shows heater valve just under left side of light. best access done with glove box removed ( both allen bolt 'hinges' undone box eases out). motor (above), via spindle, connects to valve (below), by two small bolts and a flat bar. move control to see bar move and find 'cold' point and make mark with tippex or similar. above the motor spindle is a tiny variable resistor. the relative position of this determines how far the flat bar is moved by the motor before it finds the control position. v.tiny screw holds variable resistor to top of motor but can easily be reached with glove box removed. take care as adjusting too far will mean valve passes fully closed position and starts to open the other way. i adjusted mine whilst girlfriend drove at steady speed to avoid heatsoak. don't do what i did and take the whole thing apart, breaking the resistor in the process, just to figure out how the thing worked. hope didnt make the simple process sound complicated. ada
adjusted heater control on my griff 500 as follows ish! pic shows heater valve just under left side of light. best access done with glove box removed ( both allen bolt 'hinges' undone box eases out). motor (above), via spindle, connects to valve (below), by two small bolts and a flat bar. move control to see bar move and find 'cold' point and make mark with tippex or similar. above the motor spindle is a tiny variable resistor. the relative position of this determines how far the flat bar is moved by the motor before it finds the control position. v.tiny screw holds variable resistor to top of motor but can easily be reached with glove box removed. take care as adjusting too far will mean valve passes fully closed position and starts to open the other way. i adjusted mine whilst girlfriend drove at steady speed to avoid heatsoak. don't do what i did and take the whole thing apart, breaking the resistor in the process, just to figure out how the thing worked. hope didnt make the simple process sound complicated. ada
BB: Your pictures are not big enough! It loaded in under an hour, dammit.
Re the extra vent and all the work needed to modify bodywork etc, why not go for a simple Land Rover style air vent? By this I mean a tube that connects the outside to the inside, and a flap/nozzle thing in the car to close the tube? I use the window myself...!
Re the extra vent and all the work needed to modify bodywork etc, why not go for a simple Land Rover style air vent? By this I mean a tube that connects the outside to the inside, and a flap/nozzle thing in the car to close the tube? I use the window myself...!
simpo one said:
BB: Your pictures are not big enough! It loaded in under an hour, dammit.
Re the extra vent and all the work needed to modify bodywork etc, why not go for a simple Land Rover style air vent? By this I mean a tube that connects the outside to the inside, and a flap/nozzle thing in the car to close the tube? I use the window myself...!
Its for those like u Simpo who are hard of seeing
Window what are they meant to do apart from go down and take a week to wind back up.
BB
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