Griffith Body Off jobs ,hints and tips
This may not be definitive due to the nature of our lovely beasts, but the below will hopefully grow to a good guide of how to get the body off your Griffith.
Anybody else who has done this please add and modify as you see fit.
Also the below is for my 1992 car.
Please mark any differences with the variant of griff.
Maybe even list companies who offer good shotblasting/finishing services for the metal.
Photograph everything you arent 100% sure of.
Bag and mark all fasteners that you remove.
Tag all wiring connections that you are not 100% sure of.
Access is required underneath the car.
How you do this depends on the facilites you have available.
I would say the higher the better for working underneath.
Again, depending on your facilities ,wheels may be on or off.
Forgot I had this link to a Body off project in Northants TVRCC region, piccies only Clicky
More Body off Articles
Antonys Body of restoration
Robs Body Raise
Ian Mackies Body Off Restoration
David H's Complete Rebuild engine and chassis
Richard Olsons Body Lift
Unlock the boot.
Wind down the windows.
If you're doing this to work on your outriggers, when the body is lifted cover all your paintwork with something which will withstand being dinked by metal/tools. Carpet or cardboard taped over it will protect it.
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.
From underneath the car
Fuel Pump/Tank
Disconnect the fuel pump feed pipe coming from the tank by the nearside rear wheel.
Here you can decide whether to drain the tank from below or,insert a 12mm bolt into the pipe and retighten the hose clip. If you are draining from below it's easier to disconnect the pipe at the fuel pump junction rather than the tank end to allow you to get the fuel into a container.
Disconnect the fuel pump wiring.
Dig out the sealant where this pipe comes through the lower boot body work.
On the offside seperate the copper fuel return pipe from the rubber pipe going back into the lower boot body work.
Exhaust
Undo the exhaust clamp from the Y piece down the main pipe.
Undo the two forward fixing of the main exhaust,1 on the side of the block, 1 on the lower gearbox case.(LT77 box)
Undo the two 6mm nuts at the very rear of the system.
Support the system at the rear of it.
Undo the 6 10mm pins holding the exhaust silencer box to the chassis.
Remove the exhaust pipe.
Undo handbrake tension
Reaching above the diff,wind back the handbrake adjuster as far as possible,this will allow the lifing of the T bone centre console.
Under body wiring
Disconnect the speedo sender at the gearbox(LT77 box,at the diff on later cars)
Disconnect the two bullet connectors for the reverse switch.
Disconnect the starter motor wiring.
Disconnect the Oil pressure sender wire.
Disconnect the Oil pressure switch wire.
Steering column
Undo the lower UJ of the steering column.
Mark with a dot punch the position of the shafts to the UJ's for re-assembly.
Undo the four 8mm pins which hold the rack down, this will allow some movement to get the UJ off the steering shaft.
Allow the steering shaft to fall back toward the drivers footwell.
Radiator Pipes
Undo the radiator rubber/silicon hoses and drain.
Remove the hoses which bridge between the chassis/body.
Remove the radiator to gain access to the lower chassis bolts and ARB mounts.
ARB
Disconnect the ARB drop links.
Undo the four 10mm pins for the ARB mounts.
Remove the ARB sideways from the car.
At this stage ,also remove the 2 10mm pins of the lower front chassis fixings.
These are below the radiator.
Pretty sure this is all from below the car.
Please update as necessary.
From above the car
Fuel Tank
Working in the boot, remove the carpet to allow access to the tank fixings, two lower and two upper.
Remove these fixings.
Photograph the tank sender connections and disconnect.
Undo the tank filler spout hose and pull the filler cap and neck upwards out of the way.
The tank should now be loose and be willing to be pulled back.
(on a later car there will be pipes going to the carbon cannister, (can someone please update))
Remove the tank from the car.
This will expose the four rear chassis fasterners,two 10mm(17mm spanner) pins and two upper dome head cap screw(6mm allen key).
Remove these.
Seats
Remove the seats, there are four 8mm nuts(13mm socket), these are reachable by kneeling next to the car.
Cabin chassis floor pins
There are seven floor pins on each side.Lifting the carpet over them will expose them enough to remove.
Drivers side;
Two at the rear.Welded captive nut so just undo from above.
Three mid floor,one is inboard and the other two by the sill.Welded captive nut so just undo from above.
Two at the front under the pedals.These had non captive nuts on mine so use a spanner wedged in the footwell and ratchet from below.
Again reachable by kneeling.
Passengers side;
Two at the rear.Welded captive nut so just undo from above.
Three mid floor,one is inboard and the other two by the sill.Welded captive nut so just undo from above.
Two at the front under the battery.Undoe the two 8mm pins holding the battery box in place and slide the battery back to the passenger footspave.These had non captive nuts on mine so use a spanner wedged in the footwell and ratchet from below.
Again reachable by kneeling.
Two at the front under pedals.
Undo the fixings for the T bone centre console.
These are two 6mm nuts either side of the T.
Remove the gear knob.
Pull the handbrake up as near to vertical as possible.
Lift the T bone at the rear and pull it backwards and up.
Disconnect the wiring to the lower dash.
Pull the T back and place it in the passenger footwell.
Undo the two bolts under here!
Seat belts
Remove the seatbelt stalks.
Remove the Seatbelt mechanism.
Leave the upper rear seatbelt mount in place and put belts on rear shelf.
Exhaust manifolds/Y piece
Remove these as the body wont come up with them on.
Enjoy this job !
Depending on facilities this may be easier from underneath.
Engine bay wiring
Photograph all the wiring layout in the engine bay. The more pics the better.
Disconnect all the engine bay wiring and label what you aren't sure of.
Clutch/brake pipes
Undo the four copper pipes at the offside inner wing.
Might be an idea to put some masking tape on the inner wing and write on which pipe goes where.
Throttle cable/Brake servo vacuum pipe
Disconnect the throttle cable from the plenum.
Disconncet the brake vacuum pipe from the plenum.
Plenum 90 deg bend
Remove the 90 degree pipe between the AFR and plenum.
Heater Pipes
On a 400 these are behind the plenum.Undo the clips and pull the rubber hoses back.
On later cars (please update with info)
Fasteners checklist
Prior to raising the body cross check that the following fasteners have been removed!
Front
2 M10 Hex bolts (lower front chassis fixings).
These are below the radiator.
Rear
Four rear chassis fasterners behind the fuel tank,two lower M10 (17mm spanner) hex bolts and two upper dome head cap screw (6mm allen key).
Cabin
Seven floor bolts on each side.
Two at the rear.
Three mid floor.
Two at the front under the pedals/battery box.
Below the T bone centre console.
2 x M10 (17mm spanner) bolts slightly ahead and to either side of the gear lever.
Seatbelt stalks.
Inertia reel mechanism.
Steering lower UJ to rack connection.
Right , thats it for now.
I cant think of anything else from the top of my head.
Pretty sure someone will come up with more.
It would be great for others to input to this Wiki and see it grow/develop.
Okay, I have now taken my body off.
The front "popped", i.e released quite easily.
It helps to put a just under the front crossmember and another under the diff.
Lift the car enough, but not so the tyres leave the ground.
Dont be afraid to ease the body at the mount plates in the outrigger area, using a small pry bar.
Just dont apply to much pressure.
At the rear , use your pry bar and get in between the rearmost chassis rail and the lowest part of the boot.
Again , "help" it to release.
Beware of engine harness cables getting trapped, try to have enough people to monitor things/call the shots.
It should then lift with a good strong lift(again, depending on the facilities available).
Good luck!
I found an earth strap bolted to the driver side anti roll bar front.
Anybody else who has done this please add and modify as you see fit.
Also the below is for my 1992 car.
Please mark any differences with the variant of griff.
Maybe even list companies who offer good shotblasting/finishing services for the metal.
Photograph everything you arent 100% sure of.
Bag and mark all fasteners that you remove.
Tag all wiring connections that you are not 100% sure of.
Access is required underneath the car.
How you do this depends on the facilites you have available.
I would say the higher the better for working underneath.
Again, depending on your facilities ,wheels may be on or off.
Forgot I had this link to a Body off project in Northants TVRCC region, piccies only Clicky
More Body off Articles
Antonys Body of restoration
Robs Body Raise
Ian Mackies Body Off Restoration
David H's Complete Rebuild engine and chassis
Richard Olsons Body Lift
Unlock the boot.
Wind down the windows.
If you're doing this to work on your outriggers, when the body is lifted cover all your paintwork with something which will withstand being dinked by metal/tools. Carpet or cardboard taped over it will protect it.
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.
From underneath the car
Fuel Pump/Tank
Disconnect the fuel pump feed pipe coming from the tank by the nearside rear wheel.
Here you can decide whether to drain the tank from below or,insert a 12mm bolt into the pipe and retighten the hose clip. If you are draining from below it's easier to disconnect the pipe at the fuel pump junction rather than the tank end to allow you to get the fuel into a container.
Disconnect the fuel pump wiring.
Dig out the sealant where this pipe comes through the lower boot body work.
On the offside seperate the copper fuel return pipe from the rubber pipe going back into the lower boot body work.
Exhaust
Undo the exhaust clamp from the Y piece down the main pipe.
Undo the two forward fixing of the main exhaust,1 on the side of the block, 1 on the lower gearbox case.(LT77 box)
Undo the two 6mm nuts at the very rear of the system.
Support the system at the rear of it.
Undo the 6 10mm pins holding the exhaust silencer box to the chassis.
Remove the exhaust pipe.
Undo handbrake tension
Reaching above the diff,wind back the handbrake adjuster as far as possible,this will allow the lifing of the T bone centre console.
Under body wiring
Disconnect the speedo sender at the gearbox(LT77 box,at the diff on later cars)
Disconnect the two bullet connectors for the reverse switch.
Disconnect the starter motor wiring.
Disconnect the Oil pressure sender wire.
Disconnect the Oil pressure switch wire.
Steering column
Undo the lower UJ of the steering column.
Mark with a dot punch the position of the shafts to the UJ's for re-assembly.
Undo the four 8mm pins which hold the rack down, this will allow some movement to get the UJ off the steering shaft.
Allow the steering shaft to fall back toward the drivers footwell.
Radiator Pipes
Undo the radiator rubber/silicon hoses and drain.
Remove the hoses which bridge between the chassis/body.
Remove the radiator to gain access to the lower chassis bolts and ARB mounts.
ARB
Disconnect the ARB drop links.
Undo the four 10mm pins for the ARB mounts.
Remove the ARB sideways from the car.
At this stage ,also remove the 2 10mm pins of the lower front chassis fixings.
These are below the radiator.
Pretty sure this is all from below the car.
Please update as necessary.
From above the car
Fuel Tank
Working in the boot, remove the carpet to allow access to the tank fixings, two lower and two upper.
Remove these fixings.
Photograph the tank sender connections and disconnect.
Undo the tank filler spout hose and pull the filler cap and neck upwards out of the way.
The tank should now be loose and be willing to be pulled back.
(on a later car there will be pipes going to the carbon cannister, (can someone please update))
Remove the tank from the car.
This will expose the four rear chassis fasterners,two 10mm(17mm spanner) pins and two upper dome head cap screw(6mm allen key).
Remove these.
Seats
Remove the seats, there are four 8mm nuts(13mm socket), these are reachable by kneeling next to the car.
Cabin chassis floor pins
There are seven floor pins on each side.Lifting the carpet over them will expose them enough to remove.
Drivers side;
Two at the rear.Welded captive nut so just undo from above.
Three mid floor,one is inboard and the other two by the sill.Welded captive nut so just undo from above.
Two at the front under the pedals.These had non captive nuts on mine so use a spanner wedged in the footwell and ratchet from below.
Again reachable by kneeling.
Passengers side;
Two at the rear.Welded captive nut so just undo from above.
Three mid floor,one is inboard and the other two by the sill.Welded captive nut so just undo from above.
Two at the front under the battery.Undoe the two 8mm pins holding the battery box in place and slide the battery back to the passenger footspave.These had non captive nuts on mine so use a spanner wedged in the footwell and ratchet from below.
Again reachable by kneeling.
Two at the front under pedals.
Undo the fixings for the T bone centre console.
These are two 6mm nuts either side of the T.
Remove the gear knob.
Pull the handbrake up as near to vertical as possible.
Lift the T bone at the rear and pull it backwards and up.
Disconnect the wiring to the lower dash.
Pull the T back and place it in the passenger footwell.
Undo the two bolts under here!
Seat belts
Remove the seatbelt stalks.
Remove the Seatbelt mechanism.
Leave the upper rear seatbelt mount in place and put belts on rear shelf.
Exhaust manifolds/Y piece
Remove these as the body wont come up with them on.
Enjoy this job !
Depending on facilities this may be easier from underneath.
Engine bay wiring
Photograph all the wiring layout in the engine bay. The more pics the better.
Disconnect all the engine bay wiring and label what you aren't sure of.
Clutch/brake pipes
Undo the four copper pipes at the offside inner wing.
Might be an idea to put some masking tape on the inner wing and write on which pipe goes where.
Throttle cable/Brake servo vacuum pipe
Disconnect the throttle cable from the plenum.
Disconncet the brake vacuum pipe from the plenum.
Plenum 90 deg bend
Remove the 90 degree pipe between the AFR and plenum.
Heater Pipes
On a 400 these are behind the plenum.Undo the clips and pull the rubber hoses back.
On later cars (please update with info)
Fasteners checklist
Prior to raising the body cross check that the following fasteners have been removed!
Front
2 M10 Hex bolts (lower front chassis fixings).
These are below the radiator.
Rear
Four rear chassis fasterners behind the fuel tank,two lower M10 (17mm spanner) hex bolts and two upper dome head cap screw (6mm allen key).
Cabin
Seven floor bolts on each side.
Two at the rear.
Three mid floor.
Two at the front under the pedals/battery box.
Below the T bone centre console.
2 x M10 (17mm spanner) bolts slightly ahead and to either side of the gear lever.
Seatbelt stalks.
Inertia reel mechanism.
Steering lower UJ to rack connection.
Right , thats it for now.
I cant think of anything else from the top of my head.
Pretty sure someone will come up with more.
It would be great for others to input to this Wiki and see it grow/develop.
Okay, I have now taken my body off.
The front "popped", i.e released quite easily.
It helps to put a just under the front crossmember and another under the diff.
Lift the car enough, but not so the tyres leave the ground.
Dont be afraid to ease the body at the mount plates in the outrigger area, using a small pry bar.
Just dont apply to much pressure.
At the rear , use your pry bar and get in between the rearmost chassis rail and the lowest part of the boot.
Again , "help" it to release.
Beware of engine harness cables getting trapped, try to have enough people to monitor things/call the shots.
It should then lift with a good strong lift(again, depending on the facilities available).
Good luck!
I found an earth strap bolted to the driver side anti roll bar front.