Subsidiary locks for M-Series bonnet
Discussion
Having sorted the bonnet release mechanism on my 3000S (thanks Adrinan for the cable, and the fitting tips) paranoia has set-in and I'm considering some sort of additional security to stop it springing open and flying forward. I don't want to use external chrome/rubber/leather etc hold-downs, and I know about fitting a retaining cable inside the engine bay and attached to the underside of the bonnet, but I've seen some cars fitted with rather neat little locks (just regular circular locks like some door locks, also a bit like the one that unlatches the rear bulkhead). Anyone on here done that to their car, and if so what kind of locks did you use ?
Hi Peter...OK if you must ....purchase a trailer brake cable and attach it to the crossbrace on the inside of the bonnet, then drill the hole that is in the bonnet mech to the correct size to match the brake cable and attach it. Set the lenght so that the bonnet is opened in the normal way and will raise enough for you to slip you hand in and release the 'safety catch'....I can if you so want me to supply the said cable. The later Taimar's and all the 3000S's have the pull version of the cable, they rely on ONE spring to shut both bonnet mechs and setting the nearest to the pull handle (be it RHD or LHD)is a real pain as you need to pre load the cable to get the first mech to lock the pin into postion (to stop it from popping open).
Adrian@
It is worth noting that the pins are only height adjusters for the bonnet to scuttle AND without these on, the bonnet should inherently be adjusted to shut correctly in the first place, it should be adjusted to do so at the hinges/chassis/bonnet frame.
Adrian@
It is worth noting that the pins are only height adjusters for the bonnet to scuttle AND without these on, the bonnet should inherently be adjusted to shut correctly in the first place, it should be adjusted to do so at the hinges/chassis/bonnet frame.
Excellent, yes please go ahead and I'll have one of the cables.
Like I said, paranoia, but although I have everything operating properly again now I did get one "ping" open yesterday and I was really glad it was at 20mph not more. This was also a fault on at least two of the later "S"s I owned.
And I've now sorted the ride height on the car, raising the Avo's as you suggested, backed off the damper setting too and the ride is now pretty darned good.
Like I said, paranoia, but although I have everything operating properly again now I did get one "ping" open yesterday and I was really glad it was at 20mph not more. This was also a fault on at least two of the later "S"s I owned.
And I've now sorted the ride height on the car, raising the Avo's as you suggested, backed off the damper setting too and the ride is now pretty darned good.
Notanutter said:
Excellent, yes please go ahead and I'll have one of the cables.
Like I said, paranoia, but although I have everything operating properly again now I did get one "ping" open yesterday and I was really glad it was at 20mph not more. This was also a fault on at least two of the later "S"s I owned.
And I've now sorted the ride height on the car, raising the Avo's as you suggested, backed off the damper setting too and the ride is now pretty darned good.
The issue with the (your drivers side) pull nearest the handle is normal....get someone to pull the cable a fraction, whilst you reset the catch to it's fully closed position on the pull cable so that the pull cable springs on the other catch can have some sort of leverage to hold the catch shut (I know this is hard to do, as I have described it poorly BUT...)Like I said, paranoia, but although I have everything operating properly again now I did get one "ping" open yesterday and I was really glad it was at 20mph not more. This was also a fault on at least two of the later "S"s I owned.
And I've now sorted the ride height on the car, raising the Avo's as you suggested, backed off the damper setting too and the ride is now pretty darned good.
I will get a cable out to you.
Adrian@
Adrian@ said:
...purchase a trailer brake cable and attach it to the crossbrace on the inside of the bonnet, then drill the hole that is in the bonnet mech to the correct size to match the brake cable and attach it.
Have now done that, thanks Adrian....this is definitely "first catch your hare" territory, my goodnesss I certainly got through a few drills enlarging that hole, what the heck did TVR make those assemblies from, diamond-reinforced titanium ? A neat job though, despite the melted drills, and should stop the paranoia.Gassing Station | TVR Classics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff